If you get springs too short, they will coil bind over bumps.....meaning they will completely compress/close, which is very harsh (the spring rate of a fully closed spring is umm....infiinity). Bad for handling and terrible for ride quality.

The disadvantages of going too long are of course they weigh more, it can make it difficult to get the ride height you want, and sometimes wheel fitment issues.

You'll probably want to keep the same length of spring that you currently have, which is probably 7 or 8 inches. Or they could be 170mm or 200mm lengths.

We sell the Swift coilover springs if you're interested.

- andrew

 

I am interested, can you send me a pm with a quote for all 4 7k front 6k rear. Currenty my HKS are 6k front 5k rear. I have no driving skills, but I wanna get into road racing lol.

 

Can you PM me your address?

- andrew

 

Sent

 

Gasp! Is that Marshall driving an evo with the inside rear up in the air. Oh Noes!

http://public.fotki.com/makofoto/200...9/img3011.html

 

I wish I could Coax some Tire Engineers up into this thread, haha

 

this is always such a great topic, often subjective depending on use, but in short, if your going to a coil-over setup, make it worthwhile, it's no use installing a set of coilovers that are just above the factory spring rate, and now you have to set your own bump/rebounds in the shock units. Sometimes just going to a good set of springs will give you all you need and save a few thousand $$$, and give you the lsightly better spring rate over stock.

Only buy springs with proper testing and development behind them, ie: Tien, H&R, eibach, Ralliart (ideal). There are some groups out there that merely took anothers groups spring and had it copied, and when that happens, the biggest decision they made was what colour to paint them.

We have having issues down here in Australia right now, with a group that 'HAD' Mitsubishi backing called XXXXXXX but they only had it for one year and the name is still registered, and what they are doing now is selling springs that are copies of Ralliart springs as their own, under the name of XXX srpings (Team XXXXXXX) but these springs arent made or deveopled by Mitsubishi or Ralliart, and Ralliart Japan is having meetings on it now as we speak about this fraud and misuse of their name. These Springs are copies made by King springs here in Australia.

so as you can see they are using the connotation they are expensive Ralliart springs, but they are not.

So just be careful

Proprietpry laws arent as strict here as they are in the US. Go with the true named brands.

 

clearly that car does not handle well.

 

Yeah! What's with getting _three_ open class trophies at the SD tour? What's next, running it in XP and EM as well. :-p

d

 

haha. actually 4 trophies, but who's counting.

 

It's funny you mention Tein as one of the brands with proper testing and development, as their S-Techs are among the worst springs for the Evo. They are too short and too soft leading to bottoming out and blown struts.

With regards to the original topic. For me not knowing a lot about suspension setups, I chose to have John Mueller set up my suspension to meet my needs. This is probably the best option for those of us new to suspension setup. This thread is great as it will allow me to adjust spring rates as needed to accommodate my needs as they change over time.

 

Did you guys see the rake thread? It would be nice to have some more of your input on that one.

- andrew

 

What rake thread, Link???

 

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...bout-rake.html

Hopefully i didn't get anything wrong in that thread....i might have made things too complicated though.

- Andrew

 

Excellent thread. Thanks Andrew!