I'll put money on it that it will.

 

gotccha

 

It's gonna depend on a few things, including the amount of droop travel and the tires you're using. And if you have a stock front sway. Many set-ups will lift the tire.

- drew

 

I've seen pictures of Andy's first autocross EVO back in 2004 running in AStock class. On stock suspension that thing would lift the inside rear about 10" off the ground, so IMHO it is not a problem with the rear end not having enough droop or the rear sway bar being too stiff. I feel the problem is the front end not being stiff enough and the outside front corner diving (as well as the whole car having too much body roll), thus pulling up the inside rear. My thoughts on keeping the rear down are to lower the CG and/or stiffen the front.

 

Bingo. I just scanned in a printed photo I was presented of my car on 9k/11k springs, nose-diving at an autocross a few years back. Compare to my 12k/14k springs (blue Evo at top of pg 18). Granted, this is under hard braking - look how much that tire is compressed. If you look at the full-size pic on Flickr, it looks like my splitter is scraping the pavement.

 

Awesome thread guys. Didn't know there was so many nerds (good thing) that could help out in here. I went from knowing apparently next to nothing to quite a bit in my eyes just through this one thread (19 pages of solid reading though... haha)

This should be a sticky for sure. It should almost be posted as a new member requirement.

 

Hi, just wonder will it be advisable to run a spring rate of front 6kg & rear 10kg?
The reason is ive found a 10kg rear spring at the moment as ive planned for a stiffer springs upgrade for my Tein HA coilover on my Evo 4.

Thanks

 

That's a bit too much rear spring. You could get a pair of coilover springs for pretty cheap....get something that will work better. 8k or 9k up front.

 

I have set of hyperco 8" long, 2.5" ID springs in 450 and 550 (8k and 10k) Ill be selling reasonably cheap ($100/pair) if that would work for you. 6k/10k is to great of a split in balance. Either do 6k/8k or 8k/10k.

If you absolutely must do that 6k/10k, I would have a bigger front sway bar (well I would have that anyways ) and remove the rear bar.

 

Hi can you advise me the freight charges to :
Jalan Gasing Indah 46000,
Petaling Jaya, Selangor, Malaysia.

Lastly will it fit my Tein HA model?

Thanks
James

 

This thread is excellent. After four sets of aftermarket springs on both stock struts and coilovers, I'm now running 450lb F/500lb R on JRZ RS coilovers with a Quaife front diff and Shep 12 plate rear on 265/35/18 Direzza, and so far this is as close as I've ever come to handling nirvana in an Evo on street tires!

I simply cannot stress enough the importance of having quality dampers, the right tires, and a proper alignment( preferably corner balanced) to make the most of any suspension.

 

wow those are some expensive coilovers. those spring rates are pretty soft imo. to each their own. im at 10/12 or 564/674 and its on the soft side for me on my ohlins.

 

Wow they are some excellent coilovers. For what it's worth I have previously used 850, 800, and 700lb springs and find that these "soft" lower rates suit my intended purposes of autocross and track days on street tires as well as street driving perfectly with very little compromise between. Stepping down to these rates also came as a direct suggestion from several of the most well established, proven and respected Evo suspension gurus

 

will roll center adjuster affect the motion ratio? if so, how can we measure the change in motion ration value due to the roll center?

 

It's interesting that a lot of coilover manufacturers, including high end ones like Ohlins, use a heavier front spring than rear (eg. 10 / 8). You would think that they would have taken into account the rear end of the evo and designed their rates accordingly?