donour

iTrader: (6)

One of the problems of doing that is that a lot of plates don't have adjustment in that direction. If you rotate to that position, then you would adjust into what is normally the positive range.

d

sscottttt

iTrader: (4)

I think that's why Andrew mentioned the suby guys swapping the plates from left to right as well as rotating them.

goofygrin

iTrader: (5)

Trying to visualize it in my head, I don't see how that helps unless the suby is built differently (which I assume it is )

donour

iTrader: (6)

That won't help. Take a look. You need to move toward the inner/rear bolt. Which is towards the outer bolt in normal orientation. Most plates don't have adjustment in that direction.

d

EDIT: Image attached. The printed paper is my own camber plate in normal orientation (drivers side) and the other one is the JIC in rotated position. Notice how it doesn't go the direction you want. No way of spinning it around will get it to work. You'll have to clearance the holes.

goofygrin

iTrader: (5)

donour, if you put the "camber" adjustment in the full position, that gives you some camber and some caster adjustment, right? Moreso than just leaving it in the stock east/west orientation.

donour

iTrader: (6)

Maybe I tiny bit. It's pretty close to the center. Most plates I have seens (tein, jic, ohlins, megan, etc) are like this. They don't provide adjustment the the "regular" positive range. You can see what I did to get more adjustment. I moved the hole to get static caster then provided a slightly smaller camber range.

d

goofygrin

iTrader: (5)

Take that picture again, this time putting the JIC plate over your drawing. I bet the inner most position on the JIC is pretty close to the inner most setting on your plate.

Just eyeballing it from here

And if you make a plate that would work with stock struts for a VIII I know of at least one buyer (Evo_Someday).

donour

iTrader: (6)

Haha. No way jose. As you can see the only thing that has changed is that I've moved the whole assembly back a certain amount. Right now, I'm not telling anybody how much so eyeball away.

The problem there is that you have to make the tophat, bearing, etc. I'm not doing that. I just designed a new mounted plate to put the top of the strut where I want it.

oops. I just realized that I've never told anybody I was going to build these. I think rick jung is the only one who knows they exist. Anybody want to fab a few for me?

d

goofygrin

iTrader: (5)

OK just to bring this back from a couple pages.

Last night I got dirty and swapped my front 14kg springs with the 12kg ones that Stance sent me, rotated my camber plates so I get camber and caster and installed camber bolts in the bottom hole of the strut. I am going to have to watch my clearance on the springs though since it's pretty close.

I went and got aligned this morning and here's where I'm at now:
Front:
Camber: -3.2*L -3.2*R
Toe: 0.0*L 0.0*R
Caster: 5.6*L 5.7*R (the spec on my sheet is 3.9-4.9* and previously I was at 4.0*L 4.2*R)
SAI: 15.1*L 15.1*R (finally in spec was 16.1*L/15.7*R)

Rear:
Camber: -1.4*L -1.5*R (I used to run -2*, but I'm playing with this trying to get rotation)
Toe: 0.01*L 0.00*R

We'll see how this setup works this weekend for autocross and the track next weekend with RA-1's.

Evo_Someday

Thanks Goofy, good to know that rotating the camber plates can give you an extra 1.5 degrees or so of caster. I think that will help.

And, by maxing them to the far inside, even though the "strut camber" is less than before (which has moved the scrub radius slightly inward), I think the trade-off will be beneficial overall because you'll now have more camber in the turn which is where you really need it.

bottom line: Your steering may feel heavier but it should have more lateral grip which means you can more speed through the turns -- which is good.

donour

iTrader: (6)

Again it will depend on _which_ plate you use.

d

sscottttt

iTrader: (4)

I'm glad to see this thread is still alive...

donour I see what you're talking about here, the camber plate needs to have some adjustment range towards positive camber in order to give you caster when rotated.

Goofy you have any pictures of yours installed and any feedback yet on if it feels any different on the street?

Evo Someday if you're looking for Caster/Camber plates for the stock struts like Goofy said check these out that I found on eBay: Noltec Plates I ordered a set for myself but haven't put them on yet since I'm waiting on a few more components so I can install it all at once.

goofygrin

iTrader: (5)

The steering has definitely changed, I could feel that last night when I did my around the block "nothing falls off" test drive. Heck, I could tell just pulling out of the driveway.

After getting aligned, I was just trying to book it to work, so I don't have a feel for it yet.

I do think I'm going to dial out a bit of camber since I'm concerned about my clearance on the spring.

The true test will be this weekend. The autox is at mineral wells where most layouts are in the 85-90+ second range.

alpinaturbo

iTrader: (5)

Goofy

What can you tell us now: please post your findings.
We are all eager to hear feedback.

How is steering feel, how is handling, grip, turn-in, etc...
Understeer?

Ivica

CliveW

iTrader: (1)

Just another input to this thread, I've recently made my own caster adjustable top mounts for my Evo 6, fitting these and also fitting an offset bush to the front wishbone rear mount has allowed a maximum caster of 8 degrees, as shown on the 'before' wheel alignment spec sheet. I've set the caster to a conservative 6 degrees and I'm waiting to get on track to test, although initial impressions on the road are good. I'll keep increasing the caster to see how it affects handling good or bad.