Hey guys, I have been experimenting with my suspension lately but can't afford to keep getting it aligned everytime I want to change something:

Here's the mods:
Tanabe 7 Series Racing Coilover w/ Pro 210 springs
Tanabe Front and Rear Swaybars
Tanabe Underbracing
Tanabe Camber Plates
Cusco Rear Strut Tower Bar
Energy Suspensions Master Kit
Perring (Caster Adjustable) Positive Steering Kit
Enkei NT03+M's in a 17x8 ET35
SumiTomo HTR Z III's in 255/40/17's (wanted to test, will report)
Plus the car is completely stripped with a 6pt cage....

I am wearing through tires like crazy but don't want to change my great handling..

Can anyone give me there alignment specs for an aggressive street/mild track setup for me to use as a base setup?

Any help is greatly appreciated!!

 

Well, what's your current alignment settings?
An agressive street / mild track setting might be -2.5 - -3 front camber. And around -1 - -1.5 rear camber. Zero out the toe for the street to save tire wear. Anything beyond about -2.5 front will wear the insides quicker on the street. I know just 500 street miles with -3.5 camber on street tires will show!

If you're wearing tires, usually toe is the issue. Too much toe will eat tires long before anything else.

Ride height can be a big factor too with droop travel, so keep that in mind.

 

I was recommended -1.8 F/ -1.5 R camber, zero toe for my DD/HPDE, full weight EVO IX. I run F/R swaybars, GTWORX Springs and HD Biksteins so perhaps my suspension guru would of had me add even more camber if I had the ability to, but I don't! Hopefully I am happy with the cornering ability and tire wear with this combo. GL!

 

I agree with boomn29. Set your toe to zero front and rear and your tires shouldn't wear so fast. Just 1mm toe in or out can make your tires wear 10-20k miles quicker.

 

That should be good; although some would say less rear camber. I wouldn't go past -1.5r
If you don't have any aftermarket camber plates, that's about the max negative front camber you're going to get.

 

I've had my camber up to -2.6 just to see how far i could take it, it wasnt easy to get there though.

one thing that i know of that ruins toe settings on an evo is the rear bushing in the front control arm that allows the control arm to move up to .300 of an inch or more under acceleration or deceleration.

its going to be interesting to see how these new solid billet mounts do.