wtf: cannot bed-in new project mu pads properly
Ok, so here's the deal... EVO 8 RS 36K, before my first track event i replaced the pads as they only had a little life in them. I replaced the stock Brembo's with Project Mu B-Force.
Long story short, squealed like hell even after bed-in procedure. i followed instructions from here: http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bedinstock.shtml
Of course, I did all of this all the night before the event. On the way to the event I did some left foot braking to try to bed them in more. At the track, the first run very loud, sounded like a full race pad.
After the event, things quieted down a bit although i thought the braking was a little weak (but figured it was in my head). For the next month, the pads were loud when warm or under longer braking. I learned to live with it and modified my driving style on the street to brake later and harder to avoid the squeal.
(a few months pass by)
I get tired of the loud pads and decide to re-install with Castle "Brake Squeal Eliminator" spray and try Girodisc "anti-squeal" shims. It worked for about 4 days but then returned to squealing.
Now, here's where it gets interesting... I just changed the pads this morning back to the original stock Brembo pads and stock shims (just for giggles). I followed the same bed-in procedure. BUT IT NOW BRAKES MUCH BETTER. Not just initial bite or when cold. This is after a series of 80-10 stops. Seriously, night and day difference. And, there is no squeal (yet).
So, is it possible the Project Mu pads never bedded in? Would that explain why they didn't stop very well? And, what do I do now? Should I give up on the Project Mu pads and go with something else? Could they be defective? They look ok, but honestly, I don't know what to look for in the pad to tell. Is there anything I can do (like sanding?) to help assist these new pads with bed-in?
Thanks for reading! Turned out to be quite the story...
Long story short, squealed like hell even after bed-in procedure. i followed instructions from here: http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bedinstock.shtml
Of course, I did all of this all the night before the event. On the way to the event I did some left foot braking to try to bed them in more. At the track, the first run very loud, sounded like a full race pad.
After the event, things quieted down a bit although i thought the braking was a little weak (but figured it was in my head). For the next month, the pads were loud when warm or under longer braking. I learned to live with it and modified my driving style on the street to brake later and harder to avoid the squeal.
(a few months pass by)
I get tired of the loud pads and decide to re-install with Castle "Brake Squeal Eliminator" spray and try Girodisc "anti-squeal" shims. It worked for about 4 days but then returned to squealing.
Now, here's where it gets interesting... I just changed the pads this morning back to the original stock Brembo pads and stock shims (just for giggles). I followed the same bed-in procedure. BUT IT NOW BRAKES MUCH BETTER. Not just initial bite or when cold. This is after a series of 80-10 stops. Seriously, night and day difference. And, there is no squeal (yet).
So, is it possible the Project Mu pads never bedded in? Would that explain why they didn't stop very well? And, what do I do now? Should I give up on the Project Mu pads and go with something else? Could they be defective? They look ok, but honestly, I don't know what to look for in the pad to tell. Is there anything I can do (like sanding?) to help assist these new pads with bed-in?
Thanks for reading! Turned out to be quite the story...
Last edited by AoyamaJPN; Dec 6, 2009 at 04:24 PM.
I had a similar experience with project Mu B-force pads, they were my first set of replacement pads. I bedded them in but they always seemed to squeal a little and never seemed to stop that great although I thought they held up to the heat of repeated abuse better than stock. They are definitely not meant to be track pads though either, only a mild street upgrade. I gave up on the P Mu's and haven't looked back, the best pads I've had so far are from Racing Brake, ET800 were amazing and I'm sure the 700 are great too.
thanks for the comments. i am glad i am not the only one, but pissed i am out $300.
i guess i will use them for track only, but i have a feeling i will be slower because i felt my stock Brembo's held up better when hot (10 or so 80-10 stops).
anyway, could the pads could be glazed? can i sand/file them? or, anything else i can do?
it's strange, i searched the forum before i bought the pads... a lot of people liked them
i guess i will use them for track only, but i have a feeling i will be slower because i felt my stock Brembo's held up better when hot (10 or so 80-10 stops).
anyway, could the pads could be glazed? can i sand/file them? or, anything else i can do?
it's strange, i searched the forum before i bought the pads... a lot of people liked them
Got any pics of your pads. Looking for the actual friction material. I'm pretty sure I know why the pads are loud, but would like to see a pic to confirm. As for the performance. I will never run anything besides Carbotech's again (xp 12's) They hardly make any noise, work amazingly in any temp that I've driven the car in so far, and on the track WOW, you can late brake every corner for 20 min non stop and never have a problem. I probably get 500 track miles out of a set if not more.
I have the hawks hps front brake pads and it made no sounds/squeals what so ever, just until the brake-in. i sanded them down and around and put a shyt load of shim grease and it still screams, they seemed kinda glazed but they still work under high tmps. no squealing when cold but when hot it sounds like hell but with hard braking no sounds. I think its all in the pads sanding will not help as far as I know.
Trending Topics
Here is what I've come to notice about EVO brake pads, reguardless if they are street pads or full on race pads. The pads seem to form a lip around the edges of the pad. Since the pads have a decent amount of wiggle room even with the pin in place they like to move around just enough to touch different area's of the rotor and squeal, squeak. The only solution I've found is to remove the pads and grind a chamfer around the edges of the pad. This works perfectly until the pads wear down and the lip starts to form again. I've done this on 3 different sets of brake pads that were sqeaking like crazy and it's worked every time so.
Hawk HP+
Carbotech XP12
Autozone cheap $25 pads
I will post up a pic later on tonight of what this lip looks like that I'm speaking of.
Hawk HP+
Carbotech XP12
Autozone cheap $25 pads
I will post up a pic later on tonight of what this lip looks like that I'm speaking of.
I have done that. I grind down the rust on the edges of the rotors' outter lip and the pads edges for my customers and myself. It still doesn't work for me. I just think I did a bad brake-in.
heres a good tutorial...
http://www.essexparts.com/learning-center/Bed-in
snip-it
http://www.essexparts.com/learning-center/Bed-in
snip-it
Okay, so you did your bed-in and your brakes have been flawless for a couple of weeks driving back and forth to work, and carting your girlfriend to the mall. You've had good bite, the pedal feels great, and you haven't heard any noise. Out of nowhere, they start to squeal a little bit one morning on the way to work. By the time you get home, they're making all sorts of noise. When you inspect them, the transfer layer is gone, the rotors are silver, and they look almost like they did when they came out of the box new.
That's completely normal. Just like the other parts of your car, your brakes and their transfer layer needs to be maintained for optimal performance. When you're operating your car in day-to-day driving, they're almost always cold. When they're cold, they slip into the abrasive friction mechanism we talked about at the beginning of this video. That means that on your way to the store, they're constantly scraping away at the transfer layer you laid down on the rotor. The only time they might get hot enough to replenish that transfer layer would be on a canyon run or a trip to the track. Your only solution is to go back out and do another bed-in cycle to get them back in proper form.
That's completely normal. Just like the other parts of your car, your brakes and their transfer layer needs to be maintained for optimal performance. When you're operating your car in day-to-day driving, they're almost always cold. When they're cold, they slip into the abrasive friction mechanism we talked about at the beginning of this video. That means that on your way to the store, they're constantly scraping away at the transfer layer you laid down on the rotor. The only time they might get hot enough to replenish that transfer layer would be on a canyon run or a trip to the track. Your only solution is to go back out and do another bed-in cycle to get them back in proper form.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
4g63xawd
Evo Tires / Wheels / Brakes / Suspension
62
Jan 6, 2016 03:25 AM
AustinB768
Evo Tires / Wheels / Brakes / Suspension
14
Aug 1, 2012 03:03 PM
Go_Lancer_Go
Evo Tires / Wheels / Brakes / Suspension
9
Apr 5, 2009 11:46 AM




