After putting new wheels and rubbers, I thought an alignment would be good, so I took it for an alignment. My car spun out traveling around 80ish mph exiting ramp towards highway. It was not a steep turn at all. Out of curiosity, could this new alignment spec be the culprit? I'm still on stock suspension. I took my car back to the shop and asked if I can reverse the alignment back to the original spec and he was reluctant to do it. He told me my original alignment was out of whack and there's no way the new spec would throw my car outta control. Needless to say, he wanted to charge me $$ to reverse it, that's ok by me, as long as my car is safe to drive I ended up leaving the shop w/o changing the alignment and thought a new set of suspension might help?

After reviewing the post :
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/no...nks-shawn.html
I'm thinking of getting the Tein Monoflex as well as the whiteline FRCC and the Perrin PSRS. Any thoughts on the setup?
I've got a quote from an installer; $400 for the coilovers with EDFC & $600 for the bushings. ( price seems to be right? ) I don't know for sure if it is necessary to install the bushings along with the coil over, but if I don't install the bushing, I'm going to need another alignment down the road. Any advice is greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance!

 

First off, new tires need to be broken in (50 mph for 2 hours) before any hard driving.

Alignment, no toe in the rear. Run the -2 camber bolt up front and set the rear camber to -1 to -1.5. No toe front or rear.

Now, suspension - what is it currently? I do not recommend coil-overs. Search for threads on Swift, GTWorx, and RobiSpec springs.

 

I've had the tires about a month now as well as the alignment. The shop suggested that I put in the camber bolts but I declined cuz I was thinking of getting a set of coilover. As for the suspension, I'm still on stock mr suspension/springs.

 

you need to drive it certain amount of mileage to break it in; 1 month could mean 1 mile or 1k miles driven..... you need few hundred miles to burn off the releasing agent from new tires.

also i did notice you dont have enough camber in the rear, and have alil too much in the front(which could increase oversteer tendencies) maybe that issue combined with your "too new" tires caused a spin out. and as smikeevo said, theres more rear toe you can remove. infact i'd shoot for exact spec that smikeevo stated

 

Do not need aftermarket camber bolts. Us the stock -2 setting on the front.

And rear toe needs to be zeroed.

 

Sorry for not clarifying, the tires were driven approx 1000 miles now.
Question, why would a set of coil over not recommended over the stock suspension?

 

What use would you have for them? A proper set of springs (and if wanted/needed sway bars) time in and out have proven to be the ticket for drivers.