AMF

iTrader: (26)

There's a difference between DIY and the shop labor. Yeah you could do it in an hour doesn't mean that the shop won't charge for 6 hrs labor for their installation. I wish you live around me So yeah that's what the shop had quoted and charged me along with the perrin psrs installed. I know that was pretty steep. He said he had called ams to verify the installation time, and it was about the same...I had asked a couple of shops and they quoted me about 4hrs which is a bit less..that depends on their rates really, but then again I had no tools and skills to do the job. I just want a good reputable shop to do the job right first time, not some half-assed job that gives me problem later on down the road.

I just installed 2 bushings and had to pay $600 for the labor NVM the whole bushing kit...

Sharkbite2000

iTrader: (21)

Robi did this for me and it made a HUGE diffrence

BoostWhore

iTrader: (42)

Well worth it! Install is a little intensive on the lower ball joints

delongedoug

iTrader: (20)

Oof. I got a few quotes for my bushing project and when they came in at about $7-800, I said ok, I have time, the knowledge, a helpful friend who just went through all of in the past few months and another with a shop press. There was no rush in getting it done this way but it was muchhhhhhh cheaper.

evremonde

iTrader: (7)

does this kit replace the outer tie rod end? or the inner?

black95tt

iTrader: (13)

^ it replaces the outer tie rod end and the lower ball joint. Don't be too surprised if your boots go to **** in about a year. My tie rod end boots are gone, and I'm already on my second set of ball joints due to the boots going to crap and dirt finding it's way in. The oem boots are MUCH better for longevity and keeping stuff out.

evremonde

iTrader: (7)

would it be possible to reuse the stock boots? Can anyone else confirm that the whiteline boots are junk?

chu

iTrader: (72)

You cannot reuse the stock boot. The Whiteline boost are not junk, and they stand behind their products. Anyone who has come on here to complain about the boos tearing, has had their part warranteed by Whiteline. They're prolly reading this thread right now. I believe that had a bad batch of rubber a while back, but that should have been clear. Jim(?) from Whiteline was on hear to explain it.

evremonde

iTrader: (7)

Ok, I had heard of some design flaws in previous versions. Just wanted to check if this was a new problem.

delongedoug

iTrader: (20)

Yes, I saw some problems and also saw them swoop in and rectify them. I had no hesitation in putting this on my car.

Ludikraut

iTrader: (17)

I also got a ridiculous quote and decided to DIY.

If it's your first install and you're only doing the Whiteline Front Roll Center Adjuster kit, then I'd say expect to spend about 2-3 hours. It took me a loong time to install the Perrin PSRS and Whiteline FRCA ... but that's mostly because I'm ****, lazy, and retarded. The install itself is simple enough. By far the biggest PITA was getting the godd*mned clips onto the Whiteline balljoint. Now that I've installed the components once, I could reinstall another set in a fraction of the time. Still working on replacing my front swaybar. After that my front suspension will finally be back in one piece.

BTW - does anyone know what grease Whiteline used on the balljoints?

l8r)

xRoguex

iTrader: (15)

My first install on the evo took me 8 hours to do, master ES kit, and white line kit.

I have another evo I am going to be doing here in may - Im going to time my self haha. I am willing to bet not including the "shop pressing time" as i dont have the press any more.. I bet I can do it all in 3-4 hours. Hardest part is the rear mustashe bar... since i do all of this work on my back.


7 years as a gravel floor/side of the house dsm mechanic.. and now i have a rust free evo with a 1 bay garage.. man im like white lightening in there!



And ya - anyone in the area that wants me to do it.. no problem doing the whole job in a single day.. Maybe two if you bring it up late.

black95tt

iTrader: (13)

Let my clarify my post. Whiteline does indeed stand behind their product. If you have a problem, give them a call, they'll hook you up. That being said, I stand behind my statement that the yellow boots they currently use, which according to Jim is the "new compound", do in fact dry rot and deteriorate much quicker than the stockers. This is of course in my own situation, I drive the car everyday, through all kinds of weather. If your car is a weekend/nice day non dd, then probably not as much of a concern. Carry on!

leecavturbo

I was needing to visually understand what was happening with roll centres exactly so here is my take.
if its incorrect we can discuss and make changes!?

In example 1 standard suspension the roll bar (burgundy) is at its neutral position. i.e it is not trying to push up or down on the chassis.
and front camber angles are as standard too.

In example 2 the chassis is lowered but no roll centre correction kit is fitted.
look at the angles of the lower swing arm and strut. these changes in angles have increased front camber for which no adjustment is available unlike toe which would have changed but we can easily adjust. not only that the big metal spring action of the roll bar is now trying to lift the chassis!!!!!!!
this is where roll is increased with lowering and not correcting the roll centre giving worse roll than before.

In example 3 a roll centre kit is fitted which essentially lowers the contact point of the outer swing arm to the hub. this corrects the swing arm to chassis angle. the strut and chamber angle are corrected as is the roll bar neutral position.

This is my vision any how
obviously i exaggerated some angles for easy visual
.

Ludikraut

iTrader: (17)

I'm not sure that the rollbar is of any concern/consequence with the Whiteline FRCA. The front rollbar is free to rotate up and down and move from side to side, so I don't see how it would be pushing down or pulling up on the suspension.

Your take on the LCA geometry looks correct, though.

l8r)