AlwaysinBoost

iTrader: (17)

try altering your driving style. Go in slower and it won't understeer. If you enter too hot a little lift off the throttle mid corner will bring the rear around. The TRE rear diff I hear is great at rotating the car after the apex...

this is right to a point, but you're going to be trading rear grip by tri-poding the car in order to make it rotate. Ideally you want all 4 tires on the ground especially after the apex so you can put the power down. remember; a tire in the air does nothing to make you faster.

heel2toe

iTrader: (41)

My tires pressures were one thing that I was constantly monitoring both before and after the run making slight adjustments in hopes to cure the unstersteer. I was able to dial some out by bumping up the rear but it did not completely get rid of it. I am afraid to go too high with the pressures to be honest with you so I tried to keep it under 40 hot pressure. Not sure if that is something I should worry about or not.

xmaciek82x

iTrader: (14)

My pressure settings are 36 f and 39 r cold. If I remember correctly that gets into low 40s when warm. Before I ran 32 f and 36 r cold, thinking its enough, but after I went higher the car felt great.

shh!! sleeping

iTrader: (7)

Same with me i was running 35fr cold and it would heat up to about 39hot. I increased the pressure to 39fr cold which was 42 43 hot and i felt the car handled way better and more to my liking. I wouldnt go much higher then that though

heel2toe

iTrader: (41)

I agree with you guys in that upping the tire pressures helped a great deal. She did not want to push nearly as much. With regards to the RSB I think I am going to try loosening it up a little bit. I know that the best way to get the power down is to have all 4 wheels on the ground so I would love for the car to not tripod. Something tells me that the wheel is still dangling in the air on corner exit thus not allowing me to power out as I would like.

How much of a difference would the rear diff make? If I can keep both rear wheels on the ground with my factory diff is there a good chance I will be able to induce oversteer as I was once able to?

vortico

iTrader: (38)

One thing that used to cause my car to horribly under steer was improper lowering and losing rake without installing Roll center adjusters. I had the front 1/4 inch lower than the rear with my coil overs and that was a nightmare. I raised it up 3/4 of an inch so the front is 1/2 inch higher than the rear like a factory setup and those problems completely went away. I know your not on coilovers, but i'd check how much lowering the springs you have did and how they did it. I know alot of the more popular performance springs (swift, gtworx, etc) take that into account and some of the other ones (tein s-tech for instance) do not.

chu

iTrader: (72)

Its more the angle of the front lca than the rake. Swift springs have built in rake. When you install the Whiteline RCA kit, you dont change the height or rake of the car. The RCA kit basically returns the front geometry back to OEM specs. Effectively, thats is what you did to your car when you raised it back up.

bougs

iTrader: (2)

Here is what I have found with RSB. For slow AX on +200 Tread Wear, full soft. Any track where you run 3rd for a length of time, should be med/hard. The harder you go with the RSB the more forgiving the car will become. With the RSB at soft it will 'feel' slower but lap times have proven it time and time again that AX like 'soft' setups.

Another you might want to try is preloading the RSB with adjustable tie rods. It is frowned upon but it will help in certain situations.

Practice, practice, practice. With practice comes testing. The speed will come and so dont get to frustrated. Most drivers that I have coached over drive entries in EVO/STI platforms which will cause the car to stay unbalanced past the apex. Use the AWD/Turbo to your advantage. Slow down early and power early especially on non sticky tires. Just work on the timing and balance throughout the corner.

*I don't consider tires like NT05 to be sticky*

GL and have fun.

heel2toe

iTrader: (41)

Guys I appreciate all the feedback thus far. I just got home from work so I am going to go through all the comments and try and give some responses.

First and foremost I want to reiterate that I am not taking about understeer coming into the corner but rather exiting the corner. I quickly learned the importance of going slower to go faster. Between that and really shifting the weight onto the front tires I can get the car to turn in nicely.

I just feel like on corner exit I should really be able to manhandle the car and steer with the throttle. This isnt the case. Instead the car seems to smoke the tires and has a tendency to push.

So now on to my current setup. Tires have been broken in properly and the pressures are right around where they should be. I will try adding a little more pressure but I am a little scared to run it over 40lbs hot.

Next is my alignment. I am running the stock top hats so I can only get so much camber. I will consider getting some plates. We shall see. But the alignment should be good. It was set up by a guy who does alignments for a lot of locals. He took his time and had me sit in the car while he adjusted things to make sure it was perfect.

Next is my suspension. The struts are in good condition free of leaks and what not. As for my springs I am a little skeptical. I am afraid they may be too low. I originally planned of getting a pair of GTworx springs however I struck a deal on some bilsteins with the espelir springs so I figured I would give them a shot. According to the sticky the spring rates appear to be pretty good. I may end up selling them and getting a pair of the gtworx springs in the future but I am going to stake it out for now.

then I have my Perrin RSB with matching Perrin adjustable endlinks. Something tells me this is where my problem lies. As I stated earlier I have it set to max stiffness. My thought being hey I want my car to oversteer so what the heck full stiffness here I come.

Aside from those modifications the rest of the suspension is stock. Oh I forgot I have a rear strut tower bar and underside chassis bracing but those two things probably do next to nothing.

So what else are we thinking? My current gameplan is to loosen up the sway bar and possibly go with another pound or two in the tires. The bar has three settings. Should I go with the softest or right in the middle? I dont really want to be making adjustments during the day so id rather set it and forget it.

Thanks everyone for your contributions so far. I really appreciate the advice and look forward to hearing what else everyone has to say.

bougs

iTrader: (2)

Again its up to you about the setting on the bar. Fastest times are 99.9% done on the soft setting at an AX event with 'street tires'. But it is less forgiving to drive fast. The exit of the corner has everything to do with the entry. If you are fighting the car, EVER, you are losing time. You drive a street car with alot of compliance therefore its even more important to NOT manhandle the car. It will not do what you want, when you want. A DD car is not a race car therefore it is soft in comparison. It cant react to your inputs therefore you have to patient with everything you do. One thing you will learn when pushing the limit is you will do alot of coasting/even throttle and adjusting the timing of the car.

MR Turco

iTrader: (16)

Front sway bar and tire pressures. I think you are a bit novice for the TRE diff - it would just be a band-aid. I think you need more time in the driver's seat to set the car up properly and take a better line. You've only done a few events, you will get there

heel2toe

iTrader: (41)

I think u misinterpreted what I meant by manhandle. I just want to be able throttle steer more. I used to be able to toss my car around on command and now everything is "tighter" with tons of grip yet when I am back on the throttle it understeers spinning the front tire rather putting the power out back and kicking out.

EDIT: The about comment was in reference to bougs.

Turco, Maybe if you would come with me to an event you could evaluate there. And rear diff band-aid aside it seems like something that would be beneficial.

CBRE

iTrader: (77)

Shep upgraded rear diff fixed my understeer more than anything so far, might be my favorite mod yet since it makes the car fun!

heel2toe

iTrader: (41)

It is my understand that the Shep rear diff is essentially the same as the the TRE rear diff. Both companies make solid products as far as I can tell. I am definitely interested in swapping the diff however I would rather solve my problem in a simpler manner.

sscottttt

iTrader: (4)

I think you're on the right track by thinking that the car tripoding is causing your understeer. The car tripods with stock sway bars so when you put a stiffer rear bar in there the problem only gets worse and the rear tire stays in the air even longer through the turn. First off I would put the rear bar on full soft, after that I would look into a front sway bar or the Cusco adjustable stabilizer brackets. That should get the car settled down after which I would go for the rear diff upgrade (TRE or Shep).