Ams lightweight brakes vs Girodisc utralite rotors, Which one would you pick?
#19
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Well I plan on doing a built motor and other things later down the road unless somthing goes wrong. Yes it's a street car, that's why I'm working on other things instead of just power mods when,driveline and suspension are my focus right now and later I will go back to power mods+body
#21
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I'd kind of argue the opposite. A street car, especially an AWD street car, is a hell of a lot more fun to drive with less rotational mass. It can make for a significant difference in the way the car feels each and every time it's driven. It feels lighter, more nimble, more tossable. When repeated lap times are not at stake, a lighter alternative can be very beneficial to the overall daily enjoyment. Sure, one can add power or mod the suspension, but it doesn't yield the same effect.
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I'd kind of argue the opposite. A street car, especially an AWD street car, is a hell of a lot more fun to drive with less rotational mass. It can make for a significant difference in the way the car feels each and every time it's driven. It feels lighter, more nimble, more tossable. When repeated lap times are not at stake, a lighter alternative can be very beneficial to the overall daily enjoyment. Sure, one can add power or mod the suspension, but it doesn't yield the same effect.
#23
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I understand the thought behind it, but it's still a street car. How fast are you guys driving on the street to notice the difference? I am not suggesting that it's the wrong approach or anything. I had 112k of daily driving and autox on my car...and I think once you get into racing, it completely changes the way you approach car setup. I think FJF would agree with that... Again, not saying the approach is worng.
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I understand the thought behind it, but it's still a street car. How fast are you guys driving on the street to notice the difference? I am not suggesting that it's the wrong approach or anything. I had 112k of daily driving and autox on my car...and I think once you get into racing, it completely changes the way you approach car setup. I think FJF would agree with that... Again, not saying the approach is worng.
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I had 112k of daily driving and autox on my car...and I think once you get into racing, it completely changes the way you approach car setup. I think FJF would agree with that...
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I think chu's question was about the logic of squeezing every drop of performance out of a street car, which cannot be legally driven over 60 most the time. Nor can you corner, brake or accelerate over maybe 60% of the cars ability, legally/safely.
#27
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Our Evo pulls 320/302 on STM's Mustang, which is ridiculously high for that dyno and the very light mods on the car. The guys at STM think that some of it is due to so much less rotational mass. They dyno'd lightweight rotors and found ~10hp gain. Wheels and tires make a bigger difference.
#28
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well my opinion of just fine means i can stop me from going over 135 at the track without having to lock them up. What is also failed to be mentioned is that even with the biggest/best brake set up without a equally awesome tire you are not going to be stopping fast at all. So for the average driving around town in all conditions(minus snow) and ocassionally having to jam on the brakes when some *insert bad words here* driver cuts me off these brakes work great. No i dont have the rears as asked but my e brake has been removed in preperation to have them this winter. put the car in gear and let it sit when you turn it off. same difference.
They also dont make any more noise then any other pad i used when i had the stock brakes on the car. So from someone that has jammed on both the stock brakes and the AMS wilwood kit from high speed i would suggest these to anyone who drags there car. If you autoX/lap they also sell a smaller/lighter kit for that.
#30
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Something that may put this into perspective is just looking at normal brakes compared to EVO brakes.
My old 2G GS-T had like 11" rotors and floating calipers, yet it had no problems at all pulling the 3000 pound car down from 150mph. Do it more then 2-3 times and you were asking for trouble, but those first couple were perfectly fine.
Yes, you are reducing the brake capabilities, but the EVO brakes are REALLY good for a street car and you could stand to give up a bit in order to get other benefits.
My question though, would the wilwood/AMS kit hold up to auto-x stuff where you aren't at real high speeds, but you are braking a lot with multiple rounds back to back.
I agree with the other sentiment first though, get your wheel and tire combo down on weight before looking at the brakes for weight loss. Even then you might want to look at the ABS/brake booster/Brake pedal assembly before the rotors and calipers.
My old 2G GS-T had like 11" rotors and floating calipers, yet it had no problems at all pulling the 3000 pound car down from 150mph. Do it more then 2-3 times and you were asking for trouble, but those first couple were perfectly fine.
Yes, you are reducing the brake capabilities, but the EVO brakes are REALLY good for a street car and you could stand to give up a bit in order to get other benefits.
My question though, would the wilwood/AMS kit hold up to auto-x stuff where you aren't at real high speeds, but you are braking a lot with multiple rounds back to back.
I agree with the other sentiment first though, get your wheel and tire combo down on weight before looking at the brakes for weight loss. Even then you might want to look at the ABS/brake booster/Brake pedal assembly before the rotors and calipers.
Last edited by 03whitegsr; Aug 5, 2010 at 04:22 PM.