I was talk to one of my friends about running slicks. He said that S2000 have some weak points that need to be fixed before running slicks. This got me thinking about Evos. From experience has anyone heard that we need to reinforce or any weak points on our EVO's that we need to watch out for??

Thanks for all the advice.

 

They will benefit from heat cycling, but nothing else need be done.

 

^^I think he is referring to suspension weak points, i.e. honda's having rear sway bar mounts break when running aftermarket sway bars.

As far as the tires themselves go, you'll be fine with heat cycling.

 

You are correct sirsol, That's what I'm asking.

Neil, thank you for the advice. I do plan on buying them with heat cycling.

 

What will this be for? What suspension work do you have? How much racing have you done? Which road course?

 

What will this be for? For fun and I may look at doing NASA TTS or TTU next year
What suspension work do you have?Robi Spec Race KW's, Whiteline roll center and bump steer. Car makes about 400 AWHP
How much racing have you done? I've got about 8 track day under my belt. I've raced at Gingerman and Blackhawk farms.

 

Party on

I would look at the R6s, Kuhmo V710s, or the NT01. A6s are used in TT but only for those few short laps. Not great for full sessions.

Weak areas are always cooling the brakes and pad choice. Other than that. Evo is fairly stout.

 

Don't forget the Hankook Ventus z214 Consistent DOT R tire with good wear characteristics which goes head to head with Hoosier's.

 

Only area I would consider upgrading is a quality set of pads and brake fluid. Thankfully, the evo is overbuilt enough that you shouldn't need to touch much else. If you have the capability to measure and adjust your own suspension, I would take tools with me as well. I have done track-side alignments after running a few laps and it can really help to set up the car how you like it.

 

Thanks guys, Im actually struggling with keeping my brakes cool. I've already crack a set of DBA two peice rotors in 3 events. LOL

 

Which pads? Fluid?

Ducts?

 

I will tell you that from my experience in the midwest - Blackhawk and Gingerman are HARD on brakes. I've hit 450+ degree caliper temps on both those tracks, whereas at MidOhio they only see about 300 degrees. Get some cooling and it will help alot.

 

For brakes, I’m running:
-AMS brake cooling ducts
-DBA two piece rotors all 3 paint marks gone. So much heat the alum hats turn purple (I'm hitting 1166 degrees F)
-CL R6
-Giro Titanium heat shields
-Motul 600
-SS Lines

I've been thinking about going down to 17's I'm currently on 18's with a 275mm wide tire.

 

If you're having trouble with your brakes, you should NOT switch up to Hoosiers. They generate a ton more heat into the braking system. They also like more camber than street or r-comps usually.

I'd look again at your ducting - needs to be as straight as possible and do a full flush on your fluid personally. No idea of your technique, but make sure you don't drag the brakes. Quick on; hard; and let off!

I'm also personally not a big fan of DBA's myself. I've never used them but had a few friends with some fatal cracks way sooner than they should have. And not referring to spider cracks from heat; actual cracks in the rotor where it ended their weekend!
Talk with Ken from KNS Brakes here on the forums or Girodisc. I've used both and currently run the latter and everything been top notch. I run 245/255 Hoosiers and beat the hell outta my brakes in TT/TA formats and the rotors have been great.

 

This is one of the few times a big brake kit is a good idea. If you have brake issues now, it's going to be misery with the Hoosiers.

As boomn29 recommended, another look at your ducting could help. More ducting if possible. Also, I know most companies only supply 2 inch duct hose, is 3 inches too difficult to fit?

- Andrew