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Im certainly not the best tire guy. When my car was tracking i was always a NITTO NT01 user. Thats a true track day tire w/a 100 treadwear rating (certainly not good for the street or wet conditions)
That Michelin Pilot Sport Cup 2 is more of the aggressive summer / track day tire w/a treadwear rating of 180 (expensive tire for sure). Rain performance is not all that good but can be run in the wet
But as noted, im not the best at prescribing tires. On the street i run Federal 595 EvO's
This is exactly what I was needing, I'll have to do some more research on tires. Anything special I'll need for the 18x9.5 on 265/35?
This is exactly what I was needing, I'll have to do some more research on tires. Anything special I'll need for the 18x9.5 on 265/35?
To run the 18x9.5 +30 running 265/35's your EvO will need the following
Rear fender roll (The flatter the roll the better for more clearance. Paint cracking at the roll is possible)
Rear bumper bolt relocated
Possible rear fender pull needed as well
The fronts will be OK but expect liner rub at steering lock positions. Also dependent on ride height
Keep in mind the above is for a zero rub set up. Many of installed aggressive wheels but will accept a level of rub & also raise the ride height to avoid the rub. Any EvO involved in aggressive driving (AX or road coarse) can not accept any level of tire rub!
To run the 18x9.5 +30 running 265/35's your EvO will need the following
Rear fender roll (The flatter the roll the better for more clearance. Paint cracking at the roll is possible)
Rear bumper bolt relocated
Possible rear fender pull needed as well
The fronts will be OK but expect liner rub at steering lock positions. Also dependent on ride height
Keep in mind the above is for a zero rub set up. Many of installed aggressive wheels but will accept a level of rub & also raise the ride height to avoid the rub. Any EvO involved in aggressive driving (AX or road coarse) can not accept any level of tire rub!
Thank you so much! I will keep note of all this, all I will run a +22 actually. Assuming this all stays the same?
Thank you so much! I will keep note of all this, all I will run a +22 actually. Assuming this all stays the same?
Oh, No. The +22 is even tougher to fit. An 18x9.5 +22 w/a 265 tire? Heres a layout compared to my setup
+22 in a 9.5" wheel is so tough to fit w/out a lot of rear fender work. It can be done but you will have to do everything noted above & then some
The comparison image below is your idea vs what i run. Keep in mind i had to do that laundry list above in post no. 4427 & then some to get it to fit w/rub
Most of us track oriented guys do not run these low offset wheels due to rub issues
Not trying to sway your decision but just letting you know what youre in store for
Oh, No. The +22 is even tougher to fit. An 18x9.5 +22 w/a 265 tire? Heres a layout compared to my setup
+22 in a 9.5" wheel is so tough to fit w/out a lot of rear fender work. It can be done but you will have to do everything noted above & then some
The comparison image below is your idea vs what i run. Keep in mind i had to do that laundry list above in post no. 4427 & then some to get it to fit w/rub
Most of us track oriented guys do not run these low offset wheels due to rub issues
Not trying to sway your decision but just letting you know what youre in store for
Ah ok I was choosing that offset think because the +35 have an issue clearing maybe I'll have to check and make sure it was the 17x9.5 and not the 18x9.5
Ah ok I was choosing that offset think because the +35 have an issue clearing maybe I'll have to check and make sure it was the 17x9.5 and not the 18x9.5
You would be better off choosing the higher offset to help w/the rear fit & running a front spacer. The fronts fenders are so much more forgiving w/fit. The +22 is just a tough offset to fit correctly!
You would be better off choosing the higher offset to help w/the rear fit & running a front spacer. The fronts fenders are so much more forgiving w/fit. The +22 is just a tough offset to fit correctly!
Ok that sounds good, eventually I know I'll upgrade to stoptech bbk in the front at least
Just thought I'd give you guys a little update. So the 888s 255 fit perfect on the 17x10 wheel. I figured it would be stretched but it's almost flush. The wheel/tire barely clears the rear trailing arm so we may have to just shave the tire. Maybe add a small spacer. Probably have to get the rears rolled and add just a tad of camber.
So thought I'd give a little update on these. I didn't take the pics yet of the wheel distance from trialing arm but I can tell you it is very close. When I make hard turns I do hear it rubbing against the trialing arm. And also when I hit a hard dump the tires barely rub on the quarter. But its not bad on both. I drive this thing only for fun so i may just leave it like it is. Again its a 17×10 +38 with 255/40 888s tires. 20mm spacers up front. Rear quarter is not pulled or rolled. Does have coilovers
So thought I'd give a little update on these. I didn't take the pics yet of the wheel distance from trialing arm but I can tell you it is very close. When I make hard turns I do hear it rubbing against the trialing arm. And also when I hit a hard dump the tires barely rub on the quarter. But its not bad on both. I drive this thing only for fun so i may just leave it like it is. Again its a 17×10 +38 with 255/40 888s tires. 20mm spacers up front. Rear quarter is not pulled or rolled. Does have coilovers
Wow, that looks real nice. Beefy is the word
The 255 is the min allowed on a 10" so it works for sure. You can see the slight stretch & that really helps w/the fit!
But as you noted, there a couple of fit issues at the trailing arm & fender. Let us know what ya do to resolve that! Install pics would be great to see when you have time
Last edited by MinusPrevious; Jan 3, 2021 at 04:02 PM.
Enkeir RPF1 17x9.5 offsets. Why don't people just run +18 in the front and +38 in the rear to avoid rolling fenders and spacers? Are there any adverse negative affects to it besides not being able to rotate your tires?
Enkeir RPF1 17x9.5 offsets. Why don't people just run +18 in the front and +38 in the rear to avoid rolling fenders and spacers? Are there any adverse negative affects to it besides not being able to rotate your tires?
Yeah, the rotation issue is the main reason for not running the split offset RPF1s. Front spacers have been proven to work pretty well if installed correctly & a quality kit is used
Yeah, the rotation issue is the main reason for not running the split offset RPF1s. Front spacers have been proven to work pretty well if installed correctly & a quality kit is used
Enkeir RPF1 17x9.5 offsets. Why don't people just run +18 in the front and +38 in the rear to avoid rolling fenders and spacers? Are there any adverse negative affects to it besides not being able to rotate your tires?
I think it would look ugly as well coz the front will poke out yet the rear will be inside. Also the wheels with less offset will be heavier by as much as 0.25-0.5kg due to much thicker center hub. So I would think that's not ideal for the Evo AWD system, wouldn't it? I am newbie also in this Evo game so not sure. I always think it's better to have the exact same wheels all around.
I think it would look ugly as well coz the front will poke out yet the rear will be inside. Also the wheels with less offset will be heavier by as much as 0.25-0.5kg due to much thicker center hub. So I would think that's not ideal for the Evo AWD system, wouldn't it? I am newbie also in this Evo game so not sure. I always think it's better to have the exact same wheels all around.
Its the same effect running the RPF1 +38 up front w/a 20mm spacer & a +18 up front w/no spacer. Just wanted to make that clear to all
The real issue is the ability to rotate front to rear when all the wheels share the same offset
Dec 27, 2020, 06:51 AM
