The easy button is Ohlins and call it a day! Just kidding.

If I had a complete extra set of Bilsteins, I'd rebuild them just because you can. Even if I wasn't sure I was going to use them. But I'm weird like that. Anyway, they can be really really awesome. Revalved Bilsteins with our springs, some sways, a few bushings....that's my favorite street setup short of Ohlins and even then for the street it's pretty close.

I think the main problem you're experiencing though is due to your Bilsteins being too soft and it sounds like they are well past their prime.

That said I really don't know much about Robi's springs. I know he makes good stuff but I like to see numbers, and plus that would make things easier if you're having the Bilsteins rebuilt (though you could ballpark it). I've seen different numbers for the spring rates and I wish there was a definitive answer to it.

There are a couple pics floating around of our springs on Bilsteins. I can find one for you if you like. It's a little bit taller than the Swifts. Both are great springs, obviously I'm biased towards our springs. You might try the revalved Bilsteins on Robi's springs and go from there, or you might be getting tired of swapping suspensions.



I would avoid JIC. I'm holding back a lot of analogies here.


- Andrew

 

Thanks Andrew, yes I would definitely like to see a good pic of a car on GTWorx springs and Bilsteins. I've searched some, but haven't found a good pic, and to be honest, I'm looking at everything so closely I can't remember which is which. I can't promise anything other than you at the least have my bushing purchase, but I still want to take a look.

EDIT: I'm hoping you find a pic other than the ones I've seen in the lowering spring picture thread. Those wheels are throwing me off in the picture and it doesn't specify if those are Bilstein factory, HD, or GSR shocks.

I'm going to break down my spare set and degrease the bodies tomorrow to get them ready to ship in for a rebuild.

P.S. I looked around your site earlier today and I got pissed when I saw that I paid $50 more for my Perrin RSB than you are advertising, and I bought at the lowest price I could find. You might want to mention your prices in every RSB thread that comes up, .

This pic on Swift Mach Sport makes me consider Swift springs.

 

Swifts are -1.4 and -0.8. GSR versions on HD or KYB are same lowering. MR versions have slightly different rear lowing of -0.66 due to the MR struts gas pressure.

Now rake works on the balance of the car. Car might appear raked, but could be level for the roll-axis. And can be tuned for driver preference (if on coilovers). But on the street, you wont feel it.

Ah, winter mode on the old Evo. Appearance might look different from the front lip I had on the car too. Man, have not played Forza in a year or so (not a big gamer all-in-all).

I think you've answered your own question. If it were me, I would not guess with any Ebay special. But thats me. I don't trust anyone. Throw then back on Ebay and walk away. Get some known springs (rates and company). I still find it hard to believe that Robi would allow someone else to sell "overstock".

I highly recommend the GTWorx. Very minimal drop. Good rates. Car felt very smooth when I drove it.

Here are some more of my old car:

 

Very nice. Yeah, I'm thinking spring swap also.

What is the setup in those pics? You ran so many. Is that GSR + Spec R?

 

Swift SpecR (GSR) + Bilstein HD struts (custom valved) + Swift F/R sway bars.

 

ah... man. Bilstein HD's. My mind wants to strike those pics from the record going back to my BMW days. They have a reputation on E46's for RAISING the car over stock and other aftermarket setups, so it's hard for me to trust the ride height compared to MR Bilsteins.

I found a Spec R picture thread:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...ighlight=swift

Even the best pics like the blue and black cars on Page 2 only look borderline good to me.

The worst pics:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/6236591-post32.html
and
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/7973820-post47.html
are exactly the type of thing that would make me sell my car.

To make matters worse, the car came with a JDM rear bumper, which only exaggerates the tail-high look on raked springs. Apparently it is too much to ask for a progressive, ~1-1.10" level drop with excellent handling rates for a CT9A.

 

Not many good side photos. Nor can you really know what they installed or did. Putting MR Swift springs on HD or MR struts seems to change rear (they have less drop).

Picture of mine at the tree was taken at almost level.

 

There is DEFINITE rake running Swift Spec-R. The difference from the front of my sideskirt to the back is almost 1".

If you're going to go through the trouble of installing a front swaybar, then IMO the only way to go is with an adjustable bar. IIRC the only adjustable front bars available are H&R, RobiSpec, HKS. I run the H&R front bar with a stock rear (soon to be Works).

Also, I would upgrade the rear diff before installing a rear swaybar.

l8r)

 

Yeah, I agree with all of that. What I know to be true is your measurement of F:1.2, R: .66, and therein lies the problem for me.

Rake is one of those things for me that once I see it and don't like it, I can't unsee it. Know what I mean?

My low-rake choices are:

1. Eibach Pro Kit (rates too soft, and I doubt the lowering claims, ended up with rake with these on my BMW, when they were advertised as no rake)
2. GTWorx (something like .7 lowering, hoping for a slightly lower COG)
3. Works (discontinued? no rate info, now that I look closely, maybe raked)
4. Robispec (doing things "a bit differently" with stiffer front rates, against known Evo geometry issues)

Aw forget it.

Thanks everyone for your suggestions.

 

Thanks for the info. I don't think I will be able to deal with the rake so I'm over the swifts.

I didn't say anything about getting the FSB, but I agree and would never buy a swaybar that was not adjustable, front or rear, PARTICULARLY on the front of an Evo, which I've been told is a real PITA to install.

Unless the rear diff can stop body roll, I'll probably stick with the RSB. Right now, the feel is so terrible that stopping body roll is secondary, and I don't plan on taking it out of the box, in the event I decide I don't need it.

I'm not too happy, but thanks again to all for the suggestions.

 

You can get the Bilstein's rebuilt too.

 

I know, I think I mentioned that Bilsteins were rebuildable in the OP.

I took another look at my JIC's and found the rattle. The ride height lock ring wasn't tight, and I could rattle it by hand. A couple of turns and the noise is gone...

Now I'm anxious to hear Andrew's feedback on the JIC's.

 

Lowered COG is a cop-out for you just want the car to sit lower. Lowering an Evo drops the roll center at a greater rate than the evo itself drops, increasing roll moment and roll overall.

Personally, I picked the GTworx over the Swift spec-r's because of the extra ride height. My driveway is a bit*h to, and now with the AMR's, I still rock the same ride height I had with the GTworx.

 

I would say get a slightly softer rate on the JICs and raise the car slightly to the desired rake. Personally my rule of thumb is a little raunchy but it works... as far as fender gaps... 2 1/2 finger gap in the front and 1 1/2 in the rear. That is just a round about, it all depends on tires but generally it works.

It sounds like your sensitive to alot of suspension travel as appose to undulations being transmitted to the chassis and less suspension movement.

In this case I would suggest the coilover route.

 

I'm not going to say it is a cop-out. I think a cop-out would be me saying I want to run Tein's because their 2" drop gives me a lower COG. I don't think it is unreasonable to want my car to sit ONE INCH lower than stock. The lower COG is a benefit, but yeah, what I meant to say is I want my car to sit lower than stock, level, but not so low it ****s up the travel or drags in my driveway. Sorry.

I'm still trying to find some pics of the GTWorx with Bilsteins.