I got side tracked and ended up here... So I thought Id bump this with the Spherical joint prices from Mistubishiparts.net.

Rear lower control arm outer bushing is currently $14.68 ea and the inner is $12.94. Put in "Rr lwr cntl arm Left" to the search, click "view" illustration, and its number 13 and 14 respectively.

awesome advice!

wondering if anyone changed them out for poly bushings?
if so, what brand? and part number?

i want to order asap!

If it's a sealed spherical, then it's already better than poly. This is probably why Whiteline doesn't make an aftermarket alternative. I would suggest you do as others have suggested: get the $15 part from a dealer.

One thing no-one seems to have warned you about: if these bushings are like most Mitsu bushings, then you're going need a big press to do the work. A really big press. If you don't own one, take the arm and the new bushing to a shop and have them do it. $20 or so; 10 minutes. This is a "right tool or don't do it" kind of job.

I have the same problem with my trailing arm bushings, and dealer only sells whole trailing arm. Would Energy Suspension Rear trailing arm bushings work? I see Whiteline makes bushings for that fix, but not too many people mention energy's?

forgot to update this thread...

RussellM put together a shopping cart of the parts needed to replace these bushings...

I bought them and had them installed right away, issue is resolved!

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/mi...-bushings.html

Revived thread: Im having the same issue with this bushing and im wondering if this can affect the ride height and make one side sag

it wont affect it very much unless it is badly torn.
even if it has 1/8 inch play it will rattle like hell but it can only move as far as the play in it

blown Rear shock, spring sag or bent parts from hitting something hard...that sounds much more like your issue

Can this have something to do with it? The washer things are opposite ways.
Left:
Right:

Ohhh that is really f'ed up yes indeed those are the eccentric washers. there is some little marks on them that aligns with the mark on the mount.

The right one is upside down, maybe even backwards as no mark is visible. that can definitely affect the position of the arm, the alignment and to a degree the ride height.

You posted up before about how the car was aligned. Hate to tell you this but that arm has been off and the washer and eccentric bolt installed wrongly. The alignment shop SHOULD have caught this , pointed it out and fixed the issue. there is a possibility the arm is bent as well so check it out closely.

It isnt difficult or expensive to fix. You can get new eccentric bolts and washers for those arms from Mitsubishiparts.net. Use the factory manual if you need to view things before disassembly . Be sure to lube the bolts and plates.

While you are in there, you had better check the other eccentrics on the other rear arms to make sure someone hasnt done the same to them

Turn the plates so the mark matches the mark on the mount. That is centered. Do this for all the rear ones. Refer to the factory manual for help on how things should look. Then torque each bolt down while holding the bolt so it doesnt move. Technically it is supposed to be doen with the weight of the car on the ground but it will at least be better than the way it is now.

Then take it to a good alignment shop that knows Evos and will set it to -2 camber front zero toe and -1 camber rear zero toe.

BTW if you had posted that pic before the issue would have been easier to diagnose !!!

PM me if you need further help

Just had to order the rear lower inner control arm bushings for my evo. this thread was a lot of help, so i thought i would post some part numbers i found. bolt through the bushing was stripped out too, so ill post those on the off chance someone finds it useful.

Chassis side spherical style bushing P.N. (4113A063)

Chassis side bolt P.N. (mb809335)
Chassis side nut P.N. (MU431503)