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Old Jun 2, 2011 | 07:16 PM
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Question Braking Woes...

A while back I needed pads and rotors due to having a very bad brake shudder when braking over 70 so I then purchased stoptech street pads and centric premium rotors the shudder went away for about a day but quickly came back...pads look normal and even and there's no grooves in the rotors also I'm noticing it from the front right wheel...

So my question is what else could cause a brake shudder? Ball joint? Tie rod? Additionally I've developed a slight "clunk" when going over some bumps

Any thoughts??
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Old Jun 2, 2011 | 07:38 PM
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You need to bed the pads.

Some reading material: http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml
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Old Jun 3, 2011 | 05:56 AM
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From my understanding the stoptech streets don't need the bed bed in?
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Old Jun 3, 2011 | 06:50 AM
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From: somewhere testing various tires, brakes, and suspensions.
A while back you needed to cut your rotors and re-bed the pads.

All pads need a bedding. Not only does it do a final burnish on the pad. You are applying a thin layer of pad material to rotor surface.

You might have to get the rotors resurfaced.

Try first:
-Do 6 to 10 60-10 moderate pedal stops (might smell brake pad)
-Drive back to house trying my best to not use brakes
-Park car for a few hours to let cool off

If still there. Resurface. Re-bed.
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Old Jun 3, 2011 | 07:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Boltz.
You need to bed the pads.

Some reading material: http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml
very good reading material. will deff follow the right procedures next time.
that might be the problem in this situation.
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Old Jun 3, 2011 | 05:54 PM
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Well I don't disagree with the recommendations however even when drivin at say speeds of 70 I get also a steering wheel shake which is why I'm thinking it's some sor of bushing?
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Old Jun 3, 2011 | 06:08 PM
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this is all the time?

Originally Posted by Rough_draft
Well I don't disagree with the recommendations however even when drivin at say speeds of 70 I get also a steering wheel shake which is why I'm thinking it's some sor of bushing?
or just when you hit the brakes? If it's just when you apply the brakes the only thing that it could be is"friction pad material transferred unevenly"
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Old Jun 3, 2011 | 10:08 PM
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No. Just regular driving but even more noticeable when braking
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Old Jun 3, 2011 | 10:21 PM
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i agree with everything listed above.

however, if it turns out not to be your pads, next spot I would look into is your tires/wheels. a (even) slightly bent wheel or unbalanced tire could cause the symptoms you are experiencing. gets worse at higher speeds an super noticeable above 65 when braking. just a thought
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Old Jun 4, 2011 | 05:45 AM
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if it ....

Originally Posted by Rough_draft
No. Just regular driving but even more noticeable when braking
... does it without the brakes being applied than it's a wheel bent or a bad tire.
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Old Jun 4, 2011 | 07:08 AM
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From: somewhere testing various tires, brakes, and suspensions.
Originally Posted by Rough_draft
No. Just regular driving but even more noticeable when braking
Originally Posted by boostedtres
i agree with everything listed above.

however, if it turns out not to be your pads, next spot I would look into is your tires/wheels. a (even) slightly bent wheel or unbalanced tire could cause the symptoms you are experiencing. gets worse at higher speeds an super noticeable above 65 when braking. just a thought
Originally Posted by cfdfireman1
... does it without the brakes being applied than it's a wheel bent or a bad tire.
Yep. Wheel is out of balance - rebalance all 4 tires. If still there, have the shop to a road force test. Watch the wheel on the machine. Bent rims will give bad uniformity too.
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Old Jun 4, 2011 | 09:15 AM
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I always seem to overlook the simple things first lol thanks a bunch...I'll try to get them balanced when I go for my tire rotation (yes I can rotate my tires myself but hey free lifetime rotation I'll take it lol)
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Old Jun 8, 2011 | 10:58 AM
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Here's a vid I put together on bedding pads. I also did one on swapping between street and race pads.
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Old Jun 9, 2011 | 06:43 AM
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Actually I believe we were all wrong...I was inspecting my suspension and pulled of the little ripper cap in the engine bay and noticed one side (passenger) was cranked down correctly however the other side (driver) had plenty room left to be tightened down sloop I tried to tighten it down and kept spinning (hand tools) come to find out who I boughtthe car from strippied the strut piston threads and that was never tightened because they couldn't tighten it so today I'm going to remove the strut and attempt to rethread the top with a 7/16x20 die set...it's never an easy fix
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Old Jun 9, 2011 | 07:11 AM
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Originally Posted by boltz.
you need to bed the pads.

Some reading material: http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml
+1...
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