been having the same braking shutterring ever since i got the car so i did stoptech streets and centric premium rotors it was good for a while then came back after say about 1500=2000k miles then got the rotors turned and problem went away...now its back i switched out a bad outer tie rod and its still there...i notice theres play at 12 and 6 o clock still so im thinking either bad wheel bearing or ball joint but would that cause the shutter? or is it worse like a bad caliper although the pads have even wear? this is frustrating...............

 

do you also have play if you push/pull at 3 and 9 oclock? when I check for ball joints I lift straight up on the wheel like you are trying to push it back into the wheel well and you should see a little play in the ball joiint there. May need to use a pry bar. You really need to see where u have play coming from because thats not normal and that very well could cause a shutter.

For the caliper it very well could also cause a vibration. I would start by compressing the pistons and see if they move in freely. If after only 2k miles the rotors are warped you def. have a seized caliper or the rotors are too thin.

 

so youre saying a bad ball joint could cause this vibration...hmmm

 

if it went away after turning the rotors then you've got uneven break pad transfer on your rotors.

Did you bed in the pads properly?

read these articles. specifically the one about the bed-in procedures.
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/te...e_papers.shtml

 

I definitely bedded the pads correctly after I had them turned and I'm 100% positives ther not to thin I just got an alignment after I did a tie rod and had them check the ball joint which they said was okay but was getting play in the upper strut mount... Is shuddering a symptom of a bad mount?

And also a while back I noticed whoever did my suspension (before I bought the car) stripped the threads on the strut I re threaded it and it's tight as normal but could the 2 bolts that hold the strut not be tight enough as I didn't use a tq wrench on them? This is really starting to annoy me

And lastly even while driving I'm getting the steering wheel shake and I checked the caliper it compresses as normal...

 

Bump...

 

A steering wheel shake can be from an unballanced tire on the front. I had a shake after getting my new rims/tires mounted and had the alignment verified but when I had them check the tires they said one tire was off by like half an ounce. Doesn't sound like much but after fixing that, the steering wheel shake is gone.

 

Tires were re balanced same time as alignment

 

If the steering wheel is shaking even when you are not braking then I would think it is suspension related.

 

RE-Bed the pads and search for "uneven pad transfer" like hyeteck suggested.

 

Once you solve the problem however you choose (red-bed, new pads, new rotors, turning, whatever):

Don't use ABS. Pull the fuse if that's what it takes. Don't stay on the brakes when you're sitting stationary on a flat grade at a light or in stop and go traffic. Brake smoothly, don't randomly modulate the pedal if you don't need to, judge your stopping distance and apply even braking force for as long as possible.

I've been driving for 9 years now, never once have I had permanent brake vibration by driving as I described above, and I've only gotten better at it over time.

 

Bleed the brakes and then re-bed the pads.

 

I'm really leaning towards wheel bearing now...I have a horrible whining noise coming from the right side of the car and it's not like a t case whine it's like a high pitched grinding and I think that's what's giving me the constant shudder and the "feel" of uneven pad transfer on my rotors...

 

Why would think it's the more difficult and expensive thing to fix and "lean toward" that? re-bed, it's free.

 

Jack the car up and make sure you don't have any play in the wheels.

Are you getting any uneven wear on your tires?

Besides the shutter is your braking affected at all?