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brake shutter is back AGAIN!!!

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Old Sep 1, 2011 | 07:38 PM
  #16  
pshooter's Avatar
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From: Albany,NY
what brake pads are you using? sounds like classic uneven transfer of pad material,
Hit your discs with a scothbrite pad on a die grinder and I'll bet it goes away for a few hundred to a thousand miles.

You're not using your brakes hard enough.
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Old Sep 4, 2011 | 05:32 PM
  #17  
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Do you use these only on the road, or do you do track events.
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Old Sep 4, 2011 | 10:26 PM
  #18  
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From: In the River that Falls MA
I'm using centric premium rotors with stoptech street pads...I do have play when I wiggle the wheels at 12 and 6 o clock it sounds almost like a click and this is after I changed the bad tie rod and also have a horrible grinding shrieking noise when I'm driving above say 60mph next to a guard rail which is why I'm leaning towards wheel bearing...when I got an alignment last week I had them check the ball joint and they said it was good but that my top strut mount has play but would a bad strut mount cause a shutter? And even a steering wheel wobble during normal driving?
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Old Sep 4, 2011 | 10:28 PM
  #19  
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From: In the River that Falls MA
And to add my rotors are a uniform color all around pads are wearing even and there's no noticeable variations on the rotor meaning there smooth which is why I don't believe I need to re bed the pads as I followed directions to the T
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Old Sep 5, 2011 | 07:41 AM
  #20  
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From: Chicago, IL
Originally Posted by Rough_draft
I'm using centric premium rotors with stoptech street pads...I do have play when I wiggle the wheels at 12 and 6 o clock it sounds almost like a click and this is after I changed the bad tie rod and also have a horrible grinding shrieking noise when I'm driving above say 60mph next to a guard rail which is why I'm leaning towards wheel bearing...when I got an alignment last week I had them check the ball joint and they said it was good but that my top strut mount has play but would a bad strut mount cause a shutter? And even a steering wheel wobble during normal driving?
Sounds like a wheel bearing. Any play in your suspension can cause steering wheel shutter.
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Old Sep 5, 2011 | 06:18 PM
  #21  
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From: Gillette, WY
Originally Posted by hyeteck
if it went away after turning the rotors then you've got uneven break pad transfer on your rotors.

Did you bed in the pads properly?

read these articles. specifically the one about the bed-in procedures.
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/te...e_papers.shtml
Not to hijack, but I have EBC Reds on drilled/slotted rotors and I believe I have pad transfer at high speed hard braking.

I followed their break-in procedure which is basically take it easy for 1K miles.
I was curious if the aggressive braking method is fine for these ceramic pads?

Thanks.
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Old Sep 6, 2011 | 06:51 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by blknblubkrdude
I believe I have pad transfer at high speed hard braking.
You're supposed to have pad transfer that's the whole idea behind bedding.
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Old Sep 6, 2011 | 08:19 PM
  #23  
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From: Grand Island, NE
Originally Posted by Rough_draft
I'm really leaning towards wheel bearing now...I have a horrible whining noise coming from the right side of the car and it's not like a t case whine it's like a high pitched grinding and I think that's what's giving me the constant shudder and the "feel" of uneven pad transfer on my rotors...
Buy an engine stethoscope. Jack and spin the noisy wheel with the stethoscope probe against the wheel in the area of the lug nuts. If the bearing is bad you should hear it.
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Old Jul 2, 2015 | 07:35 AM
  #24  
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From: St. Louis
I get pad transfer it drives me crazy
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Old Jul 15, 2015 | 09:31 PM
  #25  
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From: reno
ive have noticed alot of people never suspect the wheel bearing simply because "they dont make noise". check for any play in them and might even want to check rotor runout with a guage on a fresh cut flat rotor. my wifes mazda also started doing it afte 90k miles.
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