Caliper Flex?
Anybody used heat paint on the calipers to see how hot they actually get with various power and grip levels?
If the aluminum is getting to 300F, the metal is losing about 10% of it's stiffness and 20% of it's strength. Get it up to 400F and it's down 15-20% on stiffness and 60% of it's strength is gone. The strength is actually the bigger concern as you may actually be permanently deforming the caliper at high temperatures.
Have you measured the calipers piston faces to see if they are still parallel?
If the aluminum is getting to 300F, the metal is losing about 10% of it's stiffness and 20% of it's strength. Get it up to 400F and it's down 15-20% on stiffness and 60% of it's strength is gone. The strength is actually the bigger concern as you may actually be permanently deforming the caliper at high temperatures.
Have you measured the calipers piston faces to see if they are still parallel?
I wonder at what temp do the Brembo's turn almost black? Mine are somewhere between very dark brown and flat out black. I know I've turned my Ti shim plates that prismatic blue that indicated they have seen over 800 degF.
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Joined: Jun 2006
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From: Grand Island, NE
Kind of spendy, but could be used for a lot of things.
http://www.amazon.com/Genesis-Brake-...8265593&sr=8-5
http://www.amazon.com/Genesis-Brake-...8265593&sr=8-5
great solution
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Joined: Jun 2006
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From: Grand Island, NE
The 3" duct is not a new idea, but like BarneyB, I welcome seeing any and all ideas and thoughts on how to better implement it and make it workable. I spend more in front pads and rotors than I do tires tracking my Evo. So any ideas on better cooling the brakes (and making them last longer) is welcome.
Try some Raybestos st47's to get a hard pedal. The wear on your pads looks like rotor flex to me. Have you tried the new CL pads yet? You can burn up a set of the RC6 in one track day.
Why do you suggest rotor flex over caliper flex?
Seems like the rotor would be considerably stiffer then the caliper as you are loading the rotor in "axial" compression. The caliper on the other hand, you are inducing bending moments in the bridge. Objects are much stiffer in axial strain then bending.
Seems like the rotor would be considerably stiffer then the caliper as you are loading the rotor in "axial" compression. The caliper on the other hand, you are inducing bending moments in the bridge. Objects are much stiffer in axial strain then bending.
2 piece rotors? Pretty big ones stock on an evo. Look were the wear is. Then read this. http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_knockback.shtml Also explains the low pedal that gets firm after a few pumps, maybe you notice it more after that long bumpy high G sweeper?
Randy Pobst was at a track day I attender a few years back at Road America and I asked him about this "knockback" thing on my evo. He told me he did a left foot tap up before every brake zone after any period of brake inactivity. Good enough for Randy and it works for me.
Randy Pobst was at a track day I attender a few years back at Road America and I asked him about this "knockback" thing on my evo. He told me he did a left foot tap up before every brake zone after any period of brake inactivity. Good enough for Randy and it works for me.
Last edited by cfdfireman1; Oct 12, 2011 at 06:59 AM.
2 piece rotors? Pretty big ones stock on an evo. Look were the wear is. Then read this. http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_knockback.shtml Also explains the low pedal that gets firm after a few pumps, maybe you notice it more after that long bumpy high G sweeper?
Randy Pobst was at a track day I attender a few years back at Road America and I asked him about this "knockback" thing on my evo. He told me he did a left foot tap up before every brake zone after any period of brake inactivity. Good enough for Randy and it works for me.
Randy Pobst was at a track day I attender a few years back at Road America and I asked him about this "knockback" thing on my evo. He told me he did a left foot tap up before every brake zone after any period of brake inactivity. Good enough for Randy and it works for me.
Looking at that pad, after that wear pattern sets in, then when the pads start to press on the rotor, the only thing touching on the outside pad is that lower edge. I suspect I am having to press hard enough to flex the caliper and bring the whole pad face into the rotor.
Driving it around after re-installing the RB ET700's and street wheels/tires, the pedal is rock hard and has almost no movement. Of course those pads are wearing nice and flat (even on both sides).
makes no sense, you have equal pressure on both sides of the rotor when you hit the brakes, unless the caliper is flexing without brake application. the uneven wear is at the outside edge of the rotor on both sides, if it were indeed the caliper flexing wouldn't you see pad wear at the center portion of the rotor on one side and the outer edge on the other pad?