but the enkei stock rims ARE aftermarket and looks great. why would you want to get another rims unless you need that desire to be 'different'. im not sure the weight but they are high quality aluminum and pretty light. anyone got the stats on the exact weight?

 

I use Volk CE28N-L wheels in 17x8 +33mm for autocross, but the Enkei RPF1 is nearly as light and costs a bunch less. I would recommend these for any stock class Evo driver on a budget. If I was smart, I probably would have gone that way myself and spent the money on something else, but I'm not always that bright...

JW

 

FNO1RC's are most certainly not 18-19lbs in a 17 inch wheel...and frankly, 18 lbs is not even particularly heavy considering their low price.....they are certainly lighter than stock.

 

I just bought a extra set of stock wheel, Then if you screw one up you can use that on the race set. Also what do the stock wheels weigh?

 

I think the stock wheels are about 21lbs.

 

Thanks for all of the replies.

And, for the record, I'm not looking for the cheapest wheels. I'm not a complete idiot. I'm looking for the right fit. Whether what I purchase turns into everyday and the stocks go to Autocross remains to be seen. I simply have a budget and want an appropropriate wheel candidate at my corners. I'm still a distinct believer that the investment needs to be behind the wheel more than AT the wheels.

Alot of great input here - I'll look into all the recommendations, thanks very much!

Silencer - I'm in CIR but only will be competing locally. Currently, that means Rantoul, Illinois until the Peoria club finds a place again. The old Community College repaved their lot and hasn't let us go back since. I was in Chicago at the club's school in 2000 thanks greatly to Mark Hirt in my Celica GT-S. Since '88 I've gotten a total of about 4-5 autocross seasons in, cumulatively speaking. I hope to get to participate more and more.

BTW, does anyone know the stock wheel offset?

Thanks again all for great input!!

 

jwtodd60,

What do your wheels weigh? I heard a rumor that the CE28N-L weigh a bit more than just the regular CE28N (L has the polished lip). Thanks.

 

Great line!

People need to get a common definition of the term "light weight". For racing purposes, I consider light weight to mean any wheel that weighs equal to or less than the diameter of the wheel. I have a set of Velox VX-6R's that I used for every day wheels on my Accord that were 17x7.5 & 16.5lbs (= light weight). They cost $580 for the set of 4 (God bless the Chinese when they make a cheap but good quality product). I used 16" Rota Slipstreams for autocrossing: 16"x7, 13.2lbs, and $500 for the set. It would be great to see Rota come out with some Evo-specific apps if they can make them as advantageous as the Slipstreams.

You really need to pay attention to wheel weights when you look at after-market wheels - a few extra pounds can make a huge difference. My 1st set of after-market wheels for the Accord weighed about 20lbs, and when I took them off for the summer and put my stock wheels on, the vehicle felt like it had picked up about 30HP. I was losing about 8lbs per corner in the wheel/tire combo switch, and the car showed it. I read somewhere that losing 1 lb of unsprung weight is like losing 5 lbs of sprung weight. Using that rough ratio, when you lose 8lbs at each corner, that's 28 lbs total of unsprung weight, which using the ratio would be like removing 140 lbs out of the car. That's significant.

Now the Evo is going to be able to suck up some extra weight due to its prolific HP, but why waste it if you don't have to? The guy who started this thread and complained about how hard to get specs on wheels is absolutely correct. People need to ask the vendors about wheels weights and see if we can get them to publish that info on a regular basis (Tire Rack - you guys should start this trend). Make sure you weigh wheels when you get them - I've seen some total BS weights listed for wheels on reseller sites, especially for the Slipstreams. They know probably no one will know what it is, so why not make 'em look more attractive and get some more sales?

If the stock Enkeis really weigh around 20lbs then that stinks - I'll be looking for some good competition wheels.

 

I never weighed them, but I can't imagine why they would way anymore then the regular CE28N...

JW

EDIT: I just thought of one possibility...the CE28N-L comes with a center cap; I've heard that the regular CE28N does not.

 

Good luck finding the RP01's. They were discontinued over a year ago.

 

Yeah, I was noticing that, not even listed on the mfr's site anymore. Wonderin' about the RP02Js now...?

 

O ic so racing is reserved for rich *******s that are born with money or got their lucky break.. Wrong answer! Racing is for everyone perhaps the ppl with less money will be a bit slower.. But maybe not maybe they can wheel the car far better than a certain rich person even with parts that arent as good.. Driving talent plays a role aswell dont always count out the under dog!

 

Enkei RPF1, 17x8, 5x114.3 PCD, 35mm offset. You can find them for under $250 a wheel including shipping.

I bought two sets of these wheels, one set for competition, and one set for winter tires.

Competition:


Winter:


No other 17x8 wheel is anywhere close to these on the price/weight/availability spectrum.

 

I agree on the Enkei RPF1, they are quite light for the money.

I have Enkei RS-5s, and with Falken Z1-EX they were ~1 lbs lighter than the stock Advans with stock Enkeis (digital bathroom scale).

I'm thinking of selling my stock wheels/tires and powdercoating a set of the RPF1 for my everyday wheels. I think they aren't very attractive, but I don't care that much, and I think if they were dark gunmetal or flat black they would look better. I wish they came in a darker color! Alternately, I may sell my Enkei RS-5 and keep the stock wheels.

To get comparable weight wheels, probably need to spend 100-200 more at this point. Perhaps other choices will be available soon?

Take care,

FB

 

I totally agree with that statement. I have to be careful not to say what I really think since I have to sell tires to all levels of racer.

I guess my point is, people go out buy a 30k car, put on 10k worth of mods then come to me and complain abou the price of tires. Here's where I say what I really want to say. " you should have seen me first, got the "best" tire and then go to drivers school and learn to drive the car to the limit in it's stock form. Then upgrade the car." So much of the power upgrades do nothing but get inexperience drivers out of situations where their skills don't match what the car can really do. It's called driving over your head.

Tires are the MOST IMPORTANT part of the car mechanically. If you don't believe it, put on some rocks and then tell me how fast your EVO goes.

Here is the greatest oxymoron of all time:

Racing Budget!

Cheers.