Dragging brakes after brake flush...
Dragging brakes after brake flush...
I did a 2 man brake flush the other day.
Made sure it was always topped off with new fluids.
Did outside nipple first starting from pass rear, driver front, driver rear, pass front.
Now it's solid firm. But after 8 or so stops my brakes drag. I would roll it to a light and it would roll to a stop. Enough to lurch me forward as it stopped on its own making squeals as well.
Seems like it'll roll when it's cold but when it warms up a bit (5 min) it'll drag again.
Anybody have any idea with what's going on?
Made sure it was always topped off with new fluids.
Did outside nipple first starting from pass rear, driver front, driver rear, pass front.
Now it's solid firm. But after 8 or so stops my brakes drag. I would roll it to a light and it would roll to a stop. Enough to lurch me forward as it stopped on its own making squeals as well.
Seems like it'll roll when it's cold but when it warms up a bit (5 min) it'll drag again.
Anybody have any idea with what's going on?
The sequence may be off It's supposed to be:
1 Driver Rear
2 Passenger Front
3 Paggenger Rear
4 Driver front.
bleed outer nipple first then the inner nipple in the sequence... You could still have air in the system.
1 Driver Rear
2 Passenger Front
3 Paggenger Rear
4 Driver front.
bleed outer nipple first then the inner nipple in the sequence... You could still have air in the system.
For these cars, evo 9, I believe it's pass rear dr front dr rear pass front

Depending on how you did the bleed, air could be trapped in one side of the caliper. It's supposed to be bled outer then inner of the particular wheel in the sequence. Now just reading I made the assumption you bled the outer nipple first in the sequence then the inner... if I am wrong forgive me...
Also, if you do another bleed in the sequence in the diagram, when done, check your brake pedal for free play. Once you've completed bleeding and tightened everything up, press the brake pedal a few times with the car off till it gets solid. When you do, use your hand and press the pedal... feel if there's a small amount of play before it actually gengages the rod. If there is no play in the rod it will have to be adjusted slightly.
Last edited by MISHI; Dec 3, 2011 at 07:37 PM.
Yeah realised it's slightly different in the manual

Depending on how you did the bleed, air could be trapped in one side of the caliper. It's supposed to be bled outer then inner of the particular wheel in the sequence. Now just reading I made the assumption you bled the outer nipple first in the sequence then the inner... if I am wrong forgive me...
Also, if you do another bleed in the sequence in the diagram, when done, check your brake pedal for free play. Once you've completed bleeding and tightened everything up, press the brake pedal a few times with the car off till it gets solid. When you do, use your hand and press the pedal... feel if there's a small amount of play before it actually gengages the rod. If there is no play in the rod it will have to be adjusted slightly.

Depending on how you did the bleed, air could be trapped in one side of the caliper. It's supposed to be bled outer then inner of the particular wheel in the sequence. Now just reading I made the assumption you bled the outer nipple first in the sequence then the inner... if I am wrong forgive me...
Also, if you do another bleed in the sequence in the diagram, when done, check your brake pedal for free play. Once you've completed bleeding and tightened everything up, press the brake pedal a few times with the car off till it gets solid. When you do, use your hand and press the pedal... feel if there's a small amount of play before it actually gengages the rod. If there is no play in the rod it will have to be adjusted slightly.
Mityvac... Which was way too tedious to do so I switched to the 2 man method. When I check the rod am I looking for free play as in loose pedal feel? Where I'd this rod at? Sorry I'm kinda new to actually doing this though I've read on here a lot about brakes
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You're checking for a slight loose pedal feel. With the car off and pressing the brake pedal a few times, it will get hard.
When it is that way, you should be able to press the brake pedal with your hand and feel for a little free play you get when you press till the pedal gives you resistance...
You'll know when you feel it... if you have to force the pedal to go further then the rod is already engaged.
You must have a little free play on the rod else the brakes would be engaged slightly. If you press and there is no play, then the rod will have to be adjusted by loosening the nut behind the pedal, then taking a pliers, adjust the rod slightly till you get that little play.
Again it's just something to check to help see if it is causing the dragging, but I think you should do a full bleed again and see.
When it is that way, you should be able to press the brake pedal with your hand and feel for a little free play you get when you press till the pedal gives you resistance...
You'll know when you feel it... if you have to force the pedal to go further then the rod is already engaged.
You must have a little free play on the rod else the brakes would be engaged slightly. If you press and there is no play, then the rod will have to be adjusted by loosening the nut behind the pedal, then taking a pliers, adjust the rod slightly till you get that little play.
Again it's just something to check to help see if it is causing the dragging, but I think you should do a full bleed again and see.
You're checking for a slight loose pedal feel. With the car off and pressing the brake pedal a few times, it will get hard.
When it is that way, you should be able to press the brake pedal with your hand and feel for a little free play you get when you press till the pedal gives you resistance...
You'll know when you feel it... if you have to force the pedal to go further then the rod is already engaged.
You must have a little free play on the rod else the brakes would be engaged slightly. If you press and there is no play, then the rod will have to be adjusted by loosening the nut behind the pedal, then taking a pliers, adjust the rod slightly till you get that little play.
Again it's just something to check to help see if it is causing the dragging, but I think you should do a full bleed again and see.
When it is that way, you should be able to press the brake pedal with your hand and feel for a little free play you get when you press till the pedal gives you resistance...
You'll know when you feel it... if you have to force the pedal to go further then the rod is already engaged.
You must have a little free play on the rod else the brakes would be engaged slightly. If you press and there is no play, then the rod will have to be adjusted by loosening the nut behind the pedal, then taking a pliers, adjust the rod slightly till you get that little play.
Again it's just something to check to help see if it is causing the dragging, but I think you should do a full bleed again and see.
I checked the temp on all 4 rotors after driving some and the fronts were at about 200F and the rears were at about 140F... That varience might just be from the fronts working harder than the rears though...


