I'll just say that in my 10 min of googling, it sure is a complicated topic!

It looks like its explained as pro lift. Does that mean that its anti dive? Less dive during braking, and more lift during acceleration? More lift during accel sounds bad for corner exit to me.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...treet-mod.html

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...t-yea-nay.html

 

Here are the install instructions:





Notice the part that mentions the spacers (Step 9).

 

Adding spacer on top is the way to go. This makes the suspension more supple and will decrease tendency to understeer. It has a minimally negative effect on roll center - e.g. lowering it - but with an RCK this can be safely ignored.

A added benefit of putting the spacer on top is that modification to the subframe and/or LCA are less likely to be needed.

A well respected Evo suspension tuner suggests increasing the spacing down of the rear LCA even more than afforded by putting the spacer on top alone ....

 

So I've read through this article https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...treet-mod.html a couple times in the past and it appears to have the most information regarding the topic that I have found thus far...

Here is a good link in the thread which I found to be pretty interesting however I'm still not sure what to choose. http://www.whiteline.com.au/articles...WL%20ALK_b.pdf

What I do know is that by putting the spacer on the bottom has no affect on lift and top top will. Its still unclear to me if there is a benifit to installing it on the top.

The other thing that I have determined however now forget which is which is that depending on if its installed in the top vs the bottom the frame will either have to be notched/dented on the control arm will have to be ground down a little. Once again, I'm not sure what I would prefer to do.

Who ever thought installing a bushing could be so complex?

 

Ahh Im glad you chimed in as I recall seeing you post about this in another thread. Did you end up doing any modifications to the subframe or LCA? Also, what about binding issues that I recall reading about?

In my case my LCA currently have both the Whiteline RCC as well as the Whiteline LCA inner horizontal bushing. Ideally the inner LCA bushing would be a spherical but thats not what I have and was hoping to not have to swap out my current bushings there.

 

I changed PSRS, front LCA spherical (Robispec) and RCK at the same time. I got a slightly taller spacer machined and put it on top - I understand that some people just flip the upper shouldered spacer to get the same effect but then it doesn't seat nice in the bushing.

I also ground the upper shoulder of the LCA where the PSRS bushing fits in a bit with a rotary file to add a little bit of clearance. But I understand that not all chassis are alike with regard to clearance in that area. Not sure if it these are differences between 8 and 9 - I have a 9 - just vehicle to vehicle variations.

 

Thank you for your response. So the plan is to install the spacer in the top then realign everything and put it through a full stroke with the strut removed and see if there is any clearance issues. Hopefully there wont be, but if so a either a grinder of BFH will do the trick

 

I know I've discussed this prior but what have people found to work well as a dye to remove the bushing? The ball joint service kits have one that is close but its a tad too small at 3" which will force me to then press out the dye which I am hoping to not have to do.

I've poked around at Home Depot and Lowes but came up with nothing. My only thought was potentially some exhaust pipe but I'm not sure if there is any just slightly smaller than 3".

What have you guys found to work well?

 

It's like Tetris, I just try different combinations of dies to work out the bushings.

I pressed them in with 2 1/2" dies keeping it as centered as possible.


I'm about to pull the mustache bar, anyone have a good method to get it out?

Looking at it I'm assuming the rear subframe has to come down or loosened at least.

 

Im just hoping to find a good dye that wont get stuck, thats all.

As to the mustache bar I was able squeeze it out without dropping the rear subframe but I think I had my diff dropped prior so its not a great comparison. I did loosen up the bolts that attach the subframe though to give it additional clearance.

If you dont have one already swap those bushings upon throwing in a tre rear diff and you'll be a rockstar

 

I did the diff awhile ago, but didn't think about the bushings back then.

 

I bought the complete Energy Suspension Chassis bushing kit and the Perrin PSRS parts. But, what Energy Suspension does not provide, I went to WORKS and they have EVERYTHING you can possibly need that Energy Suspension doesn't include. Also went with the Beatrush/Laile drive shaft mount bushings This will all be getting done in a few weeks. My mechanic is doing my install. I'll help him, but I have a family, work, etc., so time time for me...

 

Did you notice ANY difference after you installed everything?

 

I had to drop the subframe to get the mount bolts out. They hit the side of the spare well. Also a press will be needed to do these. Even with a press they where a pain. Need a socket larger than a 38mm to push the bushings out.

 

you guys have any tips for getting the bolts lined up to install the front lca w/ psrs offset and poly front bushing? Fought with mine for a while. I can get either bolt in and a screw driver or extension in the other hole, but cant thread the other bolt.

Im sure its just a mixture of pry bars and luck and probably has a lot to do with the orientation of the psrs. Just wondering if any of you figured out a quick way to get it done.