Camber Plates vs. Camber Bolts...needed?
#1
Camber Plates vs. Camber Bolts...needed?
I tried searching but didn't really find what I was looking for.
A) when lowering a car from factory height, how much camber is adjustable from the stock mounting hardware?
I'm looking to run -2.0 FR and some where -1.5-1.8 RR camber
B) What are the benefits of camber plates? con's?
Increased adjustability, caster changes (on some), alter's suspension geometry as it changes the damper point? (scrub radius)
C) What are the benefits of camber bolts? con's? Cost?
I'm trying to understand what I should be looking for to setup my suspension properly, would like to understand cost vs. merit. My vehicle is primarily street driven, occasional auto-x and track maybe. Perhaps I don't need camber plates, but perhaps I don't need camber bolts either...
Sorry if this info is out there, I really did try searching..Thanks
A) when lowering a car from factory height, how much camber is adjustable from the stock mounting hardware?
I'm looking to run -2.0 FR and some where -1.5-1.8 RR camber
B) What are the benefits of camber plates? con's?
Increased adjustability, caster changes (on some), alter's suspension geometry as it changes the damper point? (scrub radius)
C) What are the benefits of camber bolts? con's? Cost?
I'm trying to understand what I should be looking for to setup my suspension properly, would like to understand cost vs. merit. My vehicle is primarily street driven, occasional auto-x and track maybe. Perhaps I don't need camber plates, but perhaps I don't need camber bolts either...
Sorry if this info is out there, I really did try searching..Thanks
#2
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (35)
You can get around -2 up front (usually just under) with the OEM front bolts. -1.5 in the rear is good.
The OEM bolts are 2 position adjustable....-1 and -2. Stock is -1. -2 is mo' better.
I'd recommend camber plates if you plan on running any more than that. Some do add caster which is nice, and the solid mount also helps a little (at the expense of a little ride quality).
If you don't track or auto-x extensively then I'd probably skip the plates.
EDIT: the main questions are what is your current set-up and what are your goals?
- Andrew
The OEM bolts are 2 position adjustable....-1 and -2. Stock is -1. -2 is mo' better.
I'd recommend camber plates if you plan on running any more than that. Some do add caster which is nice, and the solid mount also helps a little (at the expense of a little ride quality).
If you don't track or auto-x extensively then I'd probably skip the plates.
EDIT: the main questions are what is your current set-up and what are your goals?
- Andrew
Last edited by GTWORX.com; Feb 16, 2012 at 05:43 AM.
#3
Evolved Member
iTrader: (19)
With camber bolts you can actually change your scrub radius ( the center line from the strut top to the center of the wheel) vs the camber plates which dont. Might be or not worth it depending on what offset wheels you have and driving style. Im not sure if the stock bolts allow for that much difference but I do recall their being aftermarket camber bolt kits that give greater camber adjustment, although I hear the bolts are not as stout as the oem ones.
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#8
The suspension I'm running now is stock CTA9 MR.
My goal is to improve handling and keep some daily drivability while making the stance aggressive. I'm running 18x9.5 et20 w/ yokahama S-drive 255/18/35.... I would like to set the wheel gap aggressive enough and not rub like a ****. So having adjustible ride height is important to me, which is one reason why I'm steering away from a conventional damper/spring setup.
My plan is to run H&R coilovers, I've ran these on a handful of other vehicles (subaru, vw, audi), and my current DD runs these, so I'm fairly happy with them. My main focus is understanding what suspension adjustment I should be expecting and how to correct it with stock harndware, camber bolts, or camber plates.
It seems plates are unnecessary for my goals, camber bolts would be a safe bet, I would hate to get an alignment and find out the stock hardware wouldn't cut it in the FR and all they could get was -1.7 instead of -2.0, or worse.
Thanks for the input guys.
My goal is to improve handling and keep some daily drivability while making the stance aggressive. I'm running 18x9.5 et20 w/ yokahama S-drive 255/18/35.... I would like to set the wheel gap aggressive enough and not rub like a ****. So having adjustible ride height is important to me, which is one reason why I'm steering away from a conventional damper/spring setup.
My plan is to run H&R coilovers, I've ran these on a handful of other vehicles (subaru, vw, audi), and my current DD runs these, so I'm fairly happy with them. My main focus is understanding what suspension adjustment I should be expecting and how to correct it with stock harndware, camber bolts, or camber plates.
It seems plates are unnecessary for my goals, camber bolts would be a safe bet, I would hate to get an alignment and find out the stock hardware wouldn't cut it in the FR and all they could get was -1.7 instead of -2.0, or worse.
Thanks for the input guys.
#10
Evolved Member
iTrader: (8)
The suspension I'm running now is stock CTA9 MR.
My goal is to improve handling and keep some daily drivability while making the stance aggressive. I'm running 18x9.5 et20 w/ yokahama S-drive 255/18/35.... I would like to set the wheel gap aggressive enough and not rub like a ****. So having adjustible ride height is important to me, which is one reason why I'm steering away from a conventional damper/spring setup.
My plan is to run H&R coilovers, I've ran these on a handful of other vehicles (subaru, vw, audi), and my current DD runs these, so I'm fairly happy with them. My main focus is understanding what suspension adjustment I should be expecting and how to correct it with stock harndware, camber bolts, or camber plates.
It seems plates are unnecessary for my goals, camber bolts would be a safe bet, I would hate to get an alignment and find out the stock hardware wouldn't cut it in the FR and all they could get was -1.7 instead of -2.0, or worse.
Thanks for the input guys.
My goal is to improve handling and keep some daily drivability while making the stance aggressive. I'm running 18x9.5 et20 w/ yokahama S-drive 255/18/35.... I would like to set the wheel gap aggressive enough and not rub like a ****. So having adjustible ride height is important to me, which is one reason why I'm steering away from a conventional damper/spring setup.
My plan is to run H&R coilovers, I've ran these on a handful of other vehicles (subaru, vw, audi), and my current DD runs these, so I'm fairly happy with them. My main focus is understanding what suspension adjustment I should be expecting and how to correct it with stock harndware, camber bolts, or camber plates.
It seems plates are unnecessary for my goals, camber bolts would be a safe bet, I would hate to get an alignment and find out the stock hardware wouldn't cut it in the FR and all they could get was -1.7 instead of -2.0, or worse.
Thanks for the input guys.
H&Rs (have them on my race Focus) are very nice. However, for the Evo they have the rates biased for understeer (high front rate and lower rear rate). Bilstein PSS9 is very very similar to the H&Rs but better spring rate selection. Another set I would for sure look at for the price range and performance are the GTWorx KW3s.
And from personal experience, -1.7 = -2.0. There are ranges that you just wont feel much difference. Like NASCAR "turns" when they come in for a pit adjustment. 0.5 is where I start to feel differences in camber to response.
#11
Smike don't sigh, whats the point of an aggressive performace setup if you don't use it? If I want a racecar, I'll build a racecar.... where I work there are tons of ppl who have racecars as well as multiple racing teams, there's gobbs of knowledge and experience but every vehicle may have its place and goals and racing does not fit this vehicles purpose in my life.
Thanks, I'll look into PPS9's