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DME control arms?

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Old May 12, 2012 | 03:05 PM
  #16  
Hi Im Vinh's Avatar
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I'm looking for an alternative to adjusting my rear with more positive camber, would these be a good choice?

My car is lowered on coilovers, and I had just gotten the car aligned. The rear camber bolt is maxed positive @ -1.3 and the tech can't get anymore out of it.

He told me to research and find if any aftermarket rear control arms where available, and my question is if these LCA will help bring out more positive camber while maintaining 0 toe.
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Old May 14, 2012 | 12:43 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Hi Im Vinh
I'm looking for an alternative to adjusting my rear with more positive camber, would these be a good choice?

My car is lowered on coilovers, and I had just gotten the car aligned. The rear camber bolt is maxed positive @ -1.3 and the tech can't get anymore out of it.

He told me to research and find if any aftermarket rear control arms where available, and my question is if these LCA will help bring out more positive camber while maintaining 0 toe.
Why do you want less than -1.3?
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Old May 14, 2012 | 07:17 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by RJones
Why do you want less than -1.3?
For the daily drives , I also read flipping the rear camber eccentric bolt will yield more positive camber gain. Might try it next time
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Old May 14, 2012 | 10:51 AM
  #19  
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Flipping the bolt won't gain you anything. It's still going in the same slots and will still reach the same maximum adjustment installed either way.

I wouldn't worry about 1.3* of camber killing the tires though as long as the toe is correct.
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Old May 14, 2012 | 06:08 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by 03whitegsr
Flipping the bolt won't gain you anything. It's still going in the same slots and will still reach the same maximum adjustment installed either way.

I wouldn't worry about 1.3* of camber killing the tires though as long as the toe is correct.
Toe is set at dead 0 all around, the only weird thing is on the rear driver side camber is set at -1.3 and passenger rear camber had to be set at -1.5 to achieve 0 toe. Should I consider/look into an aftermarket toe arm?
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Old May 14, 2012 | 08:55 PM
  #21  
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The subframe may be offset to one side. Nothing really centers it, so the slack in the bolt holes lets you offset it slightly one way or the other. Not sure it's enough to cause an issue like that or not.

If all you are after is decent street alignment settings and you can't get there with the stock arms, then an adjustable lower arm might be the answer. I take it you lowered the car considerably though as you can correct the alignment for a decent amount of drop before running out of adjustment range.
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Old May 14, 2012 | 10:25 PM
  #22  
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I wouldn't worry about 1.3* killing tires either, especially with 0 toe. I run around 2.5* in the rear of my evo w/ 0 toe and my tire wear isn't that bad at all... the front is a different story (4.2* w/ a lot of toe out).
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Old May 14, 2012 | 10:50 PM
  #23  
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yea, that much camber is not unusual and will not cause added wear. as mentioned before, toe will kill the tire much quicker. but you seriously have 0 toe all around? the car will not be very stable at speed with no toe in the front.
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Old May 15, 2012 | 04:51 AM
  #24  
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Hate to break it to you but back In October I called to see if they had them in stock and turns out they are listed at the wrong price. Im surprised they haven't fix that problem -_-
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Old May 15, 2012 | 05:57 AM
  #25  
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Not sure what price you are seeing, but looking like $409 now which is not too far off from the AP ones I just put on http://www.agency-power.com/catalog/...i-p-24832.html
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Old May 15, 2012 | 02:12 PM
  #26  
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How do you like the AP's?
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Old May 15, 2012 | 02:18 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by EvilTechnology
How do you like the AP's?
Just got them on this weekend and ended up stripping out the lower control arm bolt (the one with the plates for adjustment) and of course the stealership didn't have them in stock. They should be here tomorrow, then straight to the alignment shop. I'll let you know
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Old May 15, 2012 | 02:23 PM
  #28  
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The AP units just like the Megan units tend to bend the adjustment bolt.

I have a solution coming for this adjustable link. Just need to get my press brake all setup and then I'll have something to show you guys and Robi.

-Eric
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Old May 15, 2012 | 02:47 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by R/TErnie
The AP units just like the Megan units tend to bend the adjustment bolt.

I have a solution coming for this adjustable link. Just need to get my press brake all setup and then I'll have something to show you guys and Robi.

-Eric
Is it because they do not use pillowball bushings allowing rotational forces to be exerted onto the camber bolt?
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Old May 15, 2012 | 03:39 PM
  #30  
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From: WAR EAGLE!
The shock puts the link in bending...which puts their fastener in bending...which yields.
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