DME control arms?
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From: Eastern, Indiana
DME control arms?
http://www.raceinspired.com/p-33167-...2003-2007.aspx
Idk if it's one or a pair. But that's CHEAP!?
Anyone know if they're any good?
Idk if it's one or a pair. But that's CHEAP!?
Anyone know if they're any good?
I know it maybe be 2 different areas here... but...
I have the DME Rear strut tower brace, I think its a pretty nice piece and was $47 shipped to my door step. few other members are going to try there front strut piece as well which is $50 shipped I think?
the products feel to be good quality...That rear lower control arm looks to be nice, however I have no first hand experience with that product, My other DME product is quite nice
But for $160 its worth a shot no?
I have the DME Rear strut tower brace, I think its a pretty nice piece and was $47 shipped to my door step. few other members are going to try there front strut piece as well which is $50 shipped I think?
the products feel to be good quality...That rear lower control arm looks to be nice, however I have no first hand experience with that product, My other DME product is quite nice
But for $160 its worth a shot no?
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Evolving Member
iTrader: (9)
Joined: Oct 2011
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From: Eastern, Indiana
Well they usually are $450+ on most sites. Even make them for STI and plenty of others cars. But I can't find any info good or bad on them... Kind of weird honestly. And idk about worth a shot lol mine are for autocross and would get fairly abused. Maybe a shot for a stanced daily.... Would be disastrous if one broke =[
Last edited by 5speedwtneed; Feb 28, 2012 at 01:36 PM.
in my opinion there is no real benefit from aftermarket control arms,the oem are very good,toe rods yes but control arms no,youll get a maximum of around 2 deg on the rear with zero toe and that is already more than i need
Exactly. I personally prefer my setup to have zero toe front and rear, for a road course setup that is.
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There is a benefit, you get better control over the camber and you get rid of the stock camber bolts which can easily strip in the hands of an incompetent mechanic (been there done that)
I would personally not use those. I think robi over at robi -spec tried them and broke them quite easily. I would choose the megan units or if you have the money nagasi makes some fairly overpriced LCA for the evo with far superior build quality than what you have with the agency or megan units.
DME does make a nice set of toe links as well, those I might buy, but not the LCA.
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
iTrader: (9)
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 379
Likes: 1
From: Eastern, Indiana
There is a benefit, you get better control over the camber and you get rid of the stock camber bolts which can easily strip in the hands of an incompetent mechanic (been there done that)
I would personally not use those. I think robi over at robi -spec tried them and broke them quite easily. I would choose the megan units or if you have the money nagasi makes some fairly overpriced LCA for the evo with far superior build quality than what you have with the agency or megan units.
DME does make a nice set of toe links as well, those I might buy, but not the LCA.
I would personally not use those. I think robi over at robi -spec tried them and broke them quite easily. I would choose the megan units or if you have the money nagasi makes some fairly overpriced LCA for the evo with far superior build quality than what you have with the agency or megan units.
DME does make a nice set of toe links as well, those I might buy, but not the LCA.
Listening to stock cam bolts are "enough" gets old. I obviously wouldn't be posting this if they were "enough"
okay let me put it another way,i have oem LCA with cusco sphericals and i have a set of agency power LCA lying in the garage with poly bushings,which one is better for a heavily tracked car?
if the agency power LCA had sphericals they would probably be on the car
if the agency power LCA had sphericals they would probably be on the car
Using adjustable arms to blindly adjust camber seems like a less then ideal situation. Changing arm lengths changes the dynamic geometry of the car.
Now changing arm lengths with some careful study of the impact on the dynamic geometry...
Now changing arm lengths with some careful study of the impact on the dynamic geometry...
Ideally, you could use the adjustable rod lengths to get the static alignment you desire and the eccentric bolts to get the dynamic changes you desire or to tune them out. IE, for the rear bumpsteer you could always get a larger eccentric and push an adjustable toe rod arm either higher or lower depending on the rate of toe in you want under compression. Or, you could get the dynamic changes as close to 0 during compression.
Same thing for the adjustable camber arm. You can get a larger eccentric bolt and push it farther up/down depending on what you want the change to be under compression. You could potentially setup the camber arm to increase camber during compression if you push it south of lateral. Granted, I do not know what forces this would place upon the arm and the other suspension components that may not have been designed to be loaded in that manner.
The changes would be fairly minor, but I don't know about it being all that simple. It's pretty easy to realize the effect it would have, the question becomes "how much."
We are thinking along the same lines though, you could use the adjustable arms and the eccentrics together to optimize your dynamic geometry at the ride height you have chosen. The arm lengths are going to determin dynamic changes though as the eccentrics move the mounting points inboard/outboard, not vertically so they will have much less of an effect on dynamic changes.
We are thinking along the same lines though, you could use the adjustable arms and the eccentrics together to optimize your dynamic geometry at the ride height you have chosen. The arm lengths are going to determin dynamic changes though as the eccentrics move the mounting points inboard/outboard, not vertically so they will have much less of an effect on dynamic changes.






