Hi all,

I recently purchased some Fortune Auto 500's (8K front, 9K rear) because I take part in a monthly autocross event we have here on the island. I wanted to be a bit more competitive than I was on my tein lowering springs. This is how my car looked on the lowering springs:



Now, I did my first autocross event since the coil over install this weekend and still had body roll issues in the front mostly, I tried stiffening it up after each run, I think I ended up getting about 5/8's of full stiffness. Here's how it looked:



Picture sucks sorry about that. Photographer hasn't released them yet.

What do you guys recommend I do? I did not adjust the preload on the coil overs, they were left as they came from Fortune Auto, and personally I hope that's the last thing I have to do cuz I don't want to mess with that right now. A couple parts I was going to buy are: Whiteline RCA, whiteline 26mm front sway and whiteline 24mm rear sway. I was actually going to buy them before the coil overs but decided to get the more expensive option out of the way. I run 235/45/17 Toyo R1R's also.

Give me some advise to eliminate my excessive body roll!

 

Neither preload or damper changes will effect your total roll. Well, that's not completely true... You could preload the shocks to the point where the inside runs out of droop but that's all you do with more preload.

The only thing that is going to reduce roll is roll resistance or decreased grip. Heh, less sticky tires could do the trick .

Beyond that, you need either more sway bar or spring. Spring is the better option as more bar decreases roll at the cost of more weight transfer but if thats not an option (struts cant handle it or DD and dont want a stiffer ride) then more bar will help keep the tires happy.

 

Thanks.. More spring is definitely not an option right now, not after getting these so recently.. Would getting the front bar alone help the front roll?

 

Yes, Ive tried both stock vs big front bar and with lighter springs (light is relative to grip), and the big bar wins steady state grip. Just remember its a huge pain in the *** to install. What you might look at for a quick and dirty increase is the cusco sway bar brackets.

http://www.maperformance.com/cusco-f...560-315-a.html

I have them on my car with a big bar set to full soft but I run double your spring rate.

One thing Ive learned that I didn't quite understand before is the big rear bar helps reduce the weight transfer the front is causing. So use as much rear bar as you can handle to offset the front but base how much on steady state grip.

 

Thanks. I will put that on my list too.

What do you think about a Whiteline 26mm front bar + Whiteline 24mm rear bar?

 

I have the whiteline bar and as a company I like them. I cant say for sure if one bar is better than another because swapping them takes too much time but I can say that you'll periodically see whiteline reps here defending the product. If nothing else, to me it says they care.

My rear bar is the hollow hotchkiss but the other car I setup has much lower rate Ohlin DFVs with both whitelines and so far its working pretty good on 265 Toyo R1Rs but does need more than the 8k/10k we currently have him on. Going to switch to a square 12k/12k with the rear at full stiff and front at full soft (with the cusco bracket to adjust).

 

I see, thanks for chiming in!

 

I have nothing to say here other than Dallas J is on-point.

 

Thanks, was waiting for you response!

 

Oh what the heck, now I find out about these. Why was I not notified earlier of these brackets?!? Who's in charge here?!?!?

HA! LOL! j/k

That's a great find, although I could've used these two years ago. Nuggets like this is why I continue to hang out here...

l8r)

 

Learn something new everyday!

 

those brackets will not make the swaybar act stiffer. at least according to my logic.

 

The adjustable brackets are a nice find. If am not mistaken, the purpose of these is so you can adjust the front end-links so they are at a more effective angle.

Some things to try that are free for the OP at the moment to help in Auto-X.

Try running higher tire pressure.
Put coilovers on full stiff.

BTW, what ride height is the Evo currently running?

 

When a car rolls one arm goes down and the other goes up relative to the chassis. Moving them out causes the sway bar to need to twist more for a given roll, in = less. Effectively changing the motion ratio for the bar.

I don't remember the numbers off the top of my head for % change but they're on the board somewhere. Basically its not as much of a change as a full bar swap but does give a bit of adjustability like the rear bars.

 

No doubt one can have too much spring & sway bar. Its finding that blend that works w/ our AWD system
By upping the FSB diameter & w/ high rate springs the inside front wheels have a tendency to lift which is a real negative on AWD cars. (Fine for those RWD'rs)

Those Cusco brkts look interesting. Here's a thread discussing how to drill the stock FSB & adding adjustable end links to add a bit more roll resistance
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...djustable.html

Also, Here is a recent shot of an EVOM member at a track day. He's fitted w/ higher rate springs & the Whiteline FSB. Keep in mind this was just one photo taken in time. It appears to me the inside front was fully off the ground or just beginning to lift. The OP denied the issue noting he was curbing but I dont agree

I think the OP on this thread is due for a spring rate change only. Leave the FSB upgrade alone until you understand the isuse

Mike