Track discs - DBA vs. Centric
Track discs - DBA vs. Centric
Hey guys, I know there have been many posts on both of these brands but I haven't seen anything that address my specific concern - I'm looking at getting a set of dedicated track discs so I don't have to worry about eating up the stockers or re-bedding in every track day, etc. I don't get the opportunity to do as many track days as I'd like so it's not worth it for me to pay the premium for 2-piece units. It seems the DBA 4000s and the Centric Premium High Carbons are both well-loved, but I'm unsure a) why the DBAs are twice as expensive and b) if the Centrics are appropriate for track use when I'll repeatedly be seeing 145mph. Plus, I don't know that the slots on the DBAs are really necessary, but would appreciate any input on this point. These will only be running on the front, mated to my Carbotech XP10s. Opinions? Thanks in advance!
Last edited by 72Tornado; Oct 15, 2012 at 09:39 AM.
My take on the 4000's: I've run them this summer for 2 lapping days and 4 TA days. They have enough surface stress cracks in them that I will need to replace the front ones next year (Rears still look practically new). I'm looking at either 2-pc rotors or the EBC high-carbon rotors for next year. Didn't know centric had high-carbon ones also.
Currently running the non high carbon Centric (StopTech) rotors for the track on Carbotech XP10/XP8's
Been doing some reading on the benefits of the high carbon content rotors & feel that is the only way to go to increase braking efficiency due to the softer rotor & reduce noise
Id say, keep it simple & get the Centric HC rotors
Been doing some reading on the benefits of the high carbon content rotors & feel that is the only way to go to increase braking efficiency due to the softer rotor & reduce noise
Id say, keep it simple & get the Centric HC rotors
The Centric HC's are really designed as an oe replacement that is a step or so higher in quality and finish. Although more resilient against warping/cracking over a stock rotor, I would feel better in the cryogenic treated version for your use. The DBA's do cost more but they are a bit more designed for the type of abuse you're doing.
The Centric HC's are really designed as an oe replacement that is a step or so higher in quality and finish. Although more resilient against warping/cracking over a stock rotor, I would feel better in the cryogenic treated version for your use. The DBA's do cost more but they are a bit more designed for the type of abuse you're doing.
I would buy the Centrics. I haven't used the new HC ones yet, but I see no need to pay extra for a set of rotors you're just going to destroy anyways. Hell I've tracked on the Centric 121's (non-premium) and they held up just fine.
You can almost buy three sets of the Centrics for the cost of one set of the 4000's. To me thats a no brainer.
You can almost buy three sets of the Centrics for the cost of one set of the 4000's. To me thats a no brainer.
Thanks for the feedback, everyone. I've not yet read anything negative on the DBAs and at $300 a pair they seem a great price for a quality product, so I'm leaning towards them now. Bit nervous about the fact that you can't turn them but I do like the ventilation aspects of the design, because ultimately there's nothing I want more headroom on whilst at the track than brakes...
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Thanks for the feedback, everyone. I've not yet read anything negative on the DBAs and at $300 a pair they seem a great price for a quality product, so I'm leaning towards them now. Bit nervous about the fact that you can't turn them but I do like the ventilation aspects of the design, because ultimately there's nothing I want more headroom on whilst at the track than brakes...
However, I had the turned for 15 bucks for both, and they have done two track days since at 140 mph per lap, and held up fine. Not sure why you noted you can't turn them, but if you are not supposed to it worked great for me. Either that or I had to junk them, because they were really bad.
Don't know if I would get them again, but the things I have been looking at are two piece, and all too crazy expensive (I like the gyro disc). I may buy cheapos for a try to see how those compare.
I have tracked the 4000s, and they warped pretty early on me. It was disappointing, for such 'good' rotors. The stock ones held up much longer before they warped. I assumed it was something I did in over heating or not cooling slowly enough.
However, I had the turned for 15 bucks for both, and they have done two track days since at 140 mph per lap, and held up fine. Not sure why you noted you can't turn them, but if you are not supposed to it worked great for me. Either that or I had to junk them, because they were really bad.
Don't know if I would get them again, but the things I have been looking at are two piece, and all too crazy expensive (I like the gyro disc). I may buy cheapos for a try to see how those compare.
However, I had the turned for 15 bucks for both, and they have done two track days since at 140 mph per lap, and held up fine. Not sure why you noted you can't turn them, but if you are not supposed to it worked great for me. Either that or I had to junk them, because they were really bad.
Don't know if I would get them again, but the things I have been looking at are two piece, and all too crazy expensive (I like the gyro disc). I may buy cheapos for a try to see how those compare.
Helpful feedback - I had thought turning slotted rotors was difficult, but perhaps not. Per Smike and others I'm not of the opinion that "warping" is what it's made out to be and I don't know how much of a role the discs themselves play in pad transfer...good to hear you were able to fix the issue so cheaply though. I was quoted $200 to turn my stockers yesterday 

I have tracked the 4000s, and they warped pretty early on me. It was disappointing, for such 'good' rotors. The stock ones held up much longer before they warped. I assumed it was something I did in over heating or not cooling slowly enough.
However, I had the turned for 15 bucks for both, and they have done two track days since at 140 mph per lap, and held up fine. Not sure why you noted you can't turn them, but if you are not supposed to it worked great for me. Either that or I had to junk them, because they were really bad.
Don't know if I would get them again, but the things I have been looking at are two piece, and all too crazy expensive (I like the gyro disc). I may buy cheapos for a try to see how those compare.
However, I had the turned for 15 bucks for both, and they have done two track days since at 140 mph per lap, and held up fine. Not sure why you noted you can't turn them, but if you are not supposed to it worked great for me. Either that or I had to junk them, because they were really bad.
Don't know if I would get them again, but the things I have been looking at are two piece, and all too crazy expensive (I like the gyro disc). I may buy cheapos for a try to see how those compare.
I have had the DBA 4000 since 2008 and have skimmed them once at the 3 year mark. No issues at up to 130 mph. I do use EBC brakes so the pad transfer etc will be different than yours. Could be better or worse. YMMV
WRC-LVR, appreciate the input. I'll report back after I get them on track in a couple weeks
Currently running the non high carbon Centric (StopTech) rotors for the track on Carbotech XP10/XP8's
Been doing some reading on the benefits of the high carbon content rotors & feel that is the only way to go to increase braking efficiency due to the softer rotor & reduce noise
Id say, keep it simple & get the Centric HC rotors
Been doing some reading on the benefits of the high carbon content rotors & feel that is the only way to go to increase braking efficiency due to the softer rotor & reduce noise
Id say, keep it simple & get the Centric HC rotors
If you are looking for a track disk, noise shouldn't matter. I honestly know a bunch of ppl that buy cheap disks for the track because they will only be used once. Cheap disk + aggressive pad normally doesn't have any judder issues as the pad eats the **** out of the disk, its like a constant grinding process on every stop






