Ok my evo has dyno 330/290 and soon I'm shooting for 400/380-390 whp/wtq

Bad side is it has all stock suspension and don't get me wrong it handles great. That said the body roll feels like I'm in a lifted truck hitting these corners.

So would really be looking for peoples help who have a track car.

I have a dd this car isn't it so drivability can suffer quite a bit and ill be ok with that.


So first I would be wondering if anyones replace full energy bushings kit on there cars and how big a difference it made. I did it to my last car and it was night and day difference. Wondering if anyones done this to an evo and how it changed the ride.

Then I'd like to get lowering springs. I have had coilovers and tuned perfectly and didn't seem to be a big difference over springs. My tuner also said unless I want to spend over 3k into coilovers I wasn't going to see a big difference over swift springs. Though I was looking into getting swift spec r springs 10k spring rate? Anyone have these thoughts?

Now I was looking at getting front and rear sway bars as well. I was going to go with whiteline. Heard great things and the price is great too. Thoughts? comments? concerns?

Ok now for some noob questions and I am sorry I did look and since I don't have any know how with anything listed below I would really prefer to get answers from people who have the mods.... Sorry if that sounds rude just don't want to buy something if its not needed.

Front and rear adjustable control arms? I read that it can help with down force and a lot more technical stuff that I don't wanna just copy and paste but please anyone with this mod please let me know how it changed the driving in corners.

Adjustable end links? Same thing how did this change the driving of the car. Also is normal drivability hurt?

Front rear left and right under brace? I honestly am stumped by these I've never heard of these ones but a lot of people on here seem to have them and say they are pretty good add? Just wondering what these do in these cars and how much they help. They don't seem to be a lot of money.



Also I have read about adding a back strut bar doesn't help a lot and sorta messes up trunk space from what I've seen. But was wondering with the addition of most of these mods would it hurt or help to add one?




THANKS GUYS sorry didn't feel like asking 5-10 questions so jam packed into one.

 

I can say Bilstein HD's/Swift Spec-R's and Whiteline swaybars are the way to go. Zero driveability loss, it's very comfotable in all situations, much MUCH better than the stock suspension. I haven't done links or the rear strut bar yet but will be this winter.

 

...deleted

 

ahaha. I wrote an "editorial column" last night, and then deleted everything for the same reason.

 

I did search for all my questions I couldnt really find a lot of good answers

 

I suspect those that have been around on here for years may have given you a hard time for those questions. Just ignore, but its true you need to get better at the searches to find the 'good' threads on stuff. For threads with good info look for those with tons of pages or responses, that usually means there is a hot topic going on and worth learning. On suspension specifically read what the gurus talk about. Took for comments from smike and others is this forum, you will see GURU next to their icons.

Everything else about suspension can be very voodoo black box ish. Everyone will have an opinion, but you won't find 'answers' just directions to try.

A general comment that most all of them will agree with I believe is to do whatever you are going to do in stages, so that you learn the impact of one decision and device on its own. Doing a whole bunch of suspension stuff, unless you have years of setup experience can just turn out a crapbox that is harsh, and doesn't track well at all. Suspension is lots of geometry and physics, but can be easily overdone with counteracting 'cool' parts.

Big budget = high quality coil overs, 2k up. The more money you spend the more DD they can be. The more compliant also translates into more on track grip as the tire stays on the ground....gripping.

small budget = springs, and front rear adjustable bar.

must do either way = camber plates, or camber & caster plates.

DIY must do = Get good at doing your own alignments, (good tools from long acre or SPC). Here is where the learning will start.

DIY no budget = Rear diff plate mod. look for stickies in the drivetrain forum.

If you have having difficult searching for relevant stuff and getting frustrated, try the advanced search, then type in you topic and select Titles only. This limits the results in a way that might be more useful initially.

 

well there arnt any on people in the 350-400whp range a lot of these mods are on 600whp + just wanted to know what changes and loss of drivability was. But fine....

 

Let's make this really simple. If all you want is less body roll, contact Andrew at GTWorx and order a set of matching anti-swaybars. Problem solved. Good luck.

 

Suspension mods and power mods don't go hand in hand. If you have done any tracking, you'd learn that pretty quick. If you raced, you'd learned that the rules are usually more of power restricting and less of suspension modifications. The power level does not dictate suspension mods.

FJF and I aren't trying to be d*cks, honestly. But as of late, there has been a boom in these simple suspension questions that have been covered over and over. There are stickies in this sections that most people skipped right over. Please, read them. They are very good.

Start here: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...ead-links.html

 

^^^^^
Also, when on track you will quickly find that low HP cars can whoop the **** out of high horsepower cars. Why. They don't slow down for turns, tend to be lighter, and most racetracks have more turns than straights.

Put another way, a totally stock engine/drivetrain evo with a proper suspension setup can/will embarrass a high HP drag evo with no suspension or a mish mash of non complementary suspension parts.