Bilstein/Robispec good combo?
Bilstein/Robispec good combo?
Hi All,
I am looking to replace my KYB struts and unknown lowering springs that are too low. Right now with 18" wheels and 35 sidewall profile I am getting fender rub around corners. I also need to get a bigger sidewall profile from here on out so I'm going to need more wheel clearance.
This is what I'm looking at (best prices I could find, let me know if it's cheaper elsewhere!)
Bilstein fronts $250/ea: http://www.ajusa.com/Bilstein-35-118...FQuCQgodgmgAKA
Bilstein rears $112/ea: http://www.ajusa.com/Bilstein-24-118...er-ab0410.html
Robispec lowering springs $99: http://www.ebay.com/itm/ROBISPEC-EVO...5c57a9&vxp=mtr
Is this a good combo for a near-stock-height ride with good handling?
I am looking to replace my KYB struts and unknown lowering springs that are too low. Right now with 18" wheels and 35 sidewall profile I am getting fender rub around corners. I also need to get a bigger sidewall profile from here on out so I'm going to need more wheel clearance.
This is what I'm looking at (best prices I could find, let me know if it's cheaper elsewhere!)
Bilstein fronts $250/ea: http://www.ajusa.com/Bilstein-35-118...FQuCQgodgmgAKA
Bilstein rears $112/ea: http://www.ajusa.com/Bilstein-24-118...er-ab0410.html
Robispec lowering springs $99: http://www.ebay.com/itm/ROBISPEC-EVO...5c57a9&vxp=mtr
Is this a good combo for a near-stock-height ride with good handling?
I am using that combo now. I love it and believe it performs better than springs from other vendors. Ive driven evos with some of the others that change the rake and dislike the balance.
Last autox i was at i took ftd with the combo.
Car is very compliant on the street as well.
Last autox i was at i took ftd with the combo.
Car is very compliant on the street as well.
Last edited by Jeff_Jeske; Dec 5, 2012 at 11:58 AM.
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Joined: Jul 2003
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Got Robispec springs with stock MR Bilsteins. Great combo.
Superb handling and better comfort than stock MR springs.
About the only set of springs that does not increase rake on the car. Rake works if you want to decrease understeer in a front wheel drive car by getting it to "pivot" at the limit. Probably the way to go if you just increase the rear sway bar on the Evo.
Not the preferable way in my mind. Reprogram ACD and 12-plate diff are the way to go. No need to increase rake. If anything it is probably counterproductive. Some of the fast track Evos certainly do not seem to have increased rake.
Finally, anything dropping more than an inch on a road car will decrease spring travel and/or get to riding the bump stops, as well as creating geometry issues. Even the 1" drop of the Robispecs makes an RCK desirable though not essential.
Superb handling and better comfort than stock MR springs.
About the only set of springs that does not increase rake on the car. Rake works if you want to decrease understeer in a front wheel drive car by getting it to "pivot" at the limit. Probably the way to go if you just increase the rear sway bar on the Evo.
Not the preferable way in my mind. Reprogram ACD and 12-plate diff are the way to go. No need to increase rake. If anything it is probably counterproductive. Some of the fast track Evos certainly do not seem to have increased rake.
Finally, anything dropping more than an inch on a road car will decrease spring travel and/or get to riding the bump stops, as well as creating geometry issues. Even the 1" drop of the Robispecs makes an RCK desirable though not essential.
Yes, they're the Group N top mounts made by Ralliart - http://www.rallispec.com/prod_chart_evobush.htm
I have them on my car (revalved MR Bilsteins, GTWorx springs) and they might be a tad stiffer than stock.
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I'm still using the factory top hats... no complaints. The only thing I wish I could get more of is camber but I don't feel like using pry bars and such to get it.
There are quite a few pics of my car on track with this combo. For awhile I was running Ohlins but have since switch back to regain some compliance.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/294141...subishi-lancer
There are quite a few pics of my car on track with this combo. For awhile I was running Ohlins but have since switch back to regain some compliance.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/294141...subishi-lancer
Could you explain how you experience more comfort than stock? I sure don't experience that, but yours isn't the first comment like that. Is that really true? The ride on the Robi's for me is surprisingly jittery. The car bumps and jumps around a bit getting very upset at road imperfections at speed, or any that are rhythmical. Its so, that I even have difficulty altering by throttle foot slightly, because of the bumpiness. I am not on the bump stops but notice the soft coils are fully touching. Are the 'soft' part of the springs fully touching when parked on your setup?
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Joined: Jul 2003
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Just saw you Bilstein valving thread. The picture you posted there suggests that the springs are installed the wrong way around. The tightly wound coils are supposed to be on the bottom - loose ones at the top. Not sure if that will make a ride difference or not.
Regardless, my tightly wound coils are almost touching/touching as well. The probable reason for doing this is to have droop travel among other things.
The other thing I noticed on the diagram depicting your valving on the Bilsteins. Your custom valving has much more of a nose, e.g initial valving has much higher values. This will feel better on a track car as it takes some of the initial mushiness out of the suspension but it may also be responsible for the the car feeling like it is on KYB's.
Personally, on a daily driver I like that initial softness on the factory setting but I know that a lot of people don't.
Regarding comfort and jitteriness. With the almost new unmodified factory IX MR suspension - car had 3000 miles when I got it - the ride in some parts of the city where I live was extremely jarring. Wheels did not come of the ground but the car was very unpleasant to drive on bad roads at lower speeds - the dampening spring combination did not feel well matched for that. High speed was OK regarding comfort but felt slightly floaty - not enough spring rate for high speed work.
Other issues I felt that the stock car had was the programming of the ACD unit that was always kicking in and out, e.g. disengaging the rear drive making the car squirrely to drive or making it difficult to drive a clean line unless you were absolutely maximally committed. And the stock suspension has too much bumpsteer for my taste - gives the illusion of a direct steering - much ado about nothing!!
Robispec springs improved the low speed ride comfort - I think the progressive nature of the springs is better matched with the stock valving. They are obviously stiffer at speed with the car handling much tighter - no more float. Bumpsteer slightly worse due to lowering of suspension by about 1". Some other lowering springs must be worse yet, eg. 1.4" drop on the front. Bumpsteer improved with Whiteline RCK - installed simultaneously with offset PSRS and spherical front LCA bushing. Not perfect yet - I may install Whiteline steering precision kit and see whether the slightly offset steering rack bushings improve things enough to avoid buying a more pricey bumpsteer kit.
Reprogrammed ACD controller calmed the whole car - much better to drive at any speed. Much less squirrely. Rear bump steer kit and trailing arm spherical bearings made the rear end more precise and may have reduced tire wear.
With the addition of a TRE Max-lock to all that the car feels more stable yet with a distinct RWD feel and much higher corner exit speeds - you can get on the throttle much earlier and modulate your line with the throttle very precisely without the car doing its own thing electronically.
As it is I find the car close to perfect for both daily driving and high speed work. The most uncomfortable thing at this point is the Walbro fuel pump noise. Suspension is firm and supple at the same time. Friend of mine that drives a Subaru Legacy commented on how comfortable the ride is. Another friend likened it to a BMW or Audi with regard to ride quality.
So apart from the slight ongoing bumpsteer in the front the car is perfect now as far as I am concerened. Certainly do not see the need for Oehlins .....
Regardless, my tightly wound coils are almost touching/touching as well. The probable reason for doing this is to have droop travel among other things.
The other thing I noticed on the diagram depicting your valving on the Bilsteins. Your custom valving has much more of a nose, e.g initial valving has much higher values. This will feel better on a track car as it takes some of the initial mushiness out of the suspension but it may also be responsible for the the car feeling like it is on KYB's.
Personally, on a daily driver I like that initial softness on the factory setting but I know that a lot of people don't.
Regarding comfort and jitteriness. With the almost new unmodified factory IX MR suspension - car had 3000 miles when I got it - the ride in some parts of the city where I live was extremely jarring. Wheels did not come of the ground but the car was very unpleasant to drive on bad roads at lower speeds - the dampening spring combination did not feel well matched for that. High speed was OK regarding comfort but felt slightly floaty - not enough spring rate for high speed work.
Other issues I felt that the stock car had was the programming of the ACD unit that was always kicking in and out, e.g. disengaging the rear drive making the car squirrely to drive or making it difficult to drive a clean line unless you were absolutely maximally committed. And the stock suspension has too much bumpsteer for my taste - gives the illusion of a direct steering - much ado about nothing!!
Robispec springs improved the low speed ride comfort - I think the progressive nature of the springs is better matched with the stock valving. They are obviously stiffer at speed with the car handling much tighter - no more float. Bumpsteer slightly worse due to lowering of suspension by about 1". Some other lowering springs must be worse yet, eg. 1.4" drop on the front. Bumpsteer improved with Whiteline RCK - installed simultaneously with offset PSRS and spherical front LCA bushing. Not perfect yet - I may install Whiteline steering precision kit and see whether the slightly offset steering rack bushings improve things enough to avoid buying a more pricey bumpsteer kit.
Reprogrammed ACD controller calmed the whole car - much better to drive at any speed. Much less squirrely. Rear bump steer kit and trailing arm spherical bearings made the rear end more precise and may have reduced tire wear.
With the addition of a TRE Max-lock to all that the car feels more stable yet with a distinct RWD feel and much higher corner exit speeds - you can get on the throttle much earlier and modulate your line with the throttle very precisely without the car doing its own thing electronically.
As it is I find the car close to perfect for both daily driving and high speed work. The most uncomfortable thing at this point is the Walbro fuel pump noise. Suspension is firm and supple at the same time. Friend of mine that drives a Subaru Legacy commented on how comfortable the ride is. Another friend likened it to a BMW or Audi with regard to ride quality.
So apart from the slight ongoing bumpsteer in the front the car is perfect now as far as I am concerened. Certainly do not see the need for Oehlins .....
Could you explain how you experience more comfort than stock? I sure don't experience that, but yours isn't the first comment like that. Is that really true? The ride on the Robi's for me is surprisingly jittery. The car bumps and jumps around a bit getting very upset at road imperfections at speed, or any that are rhythmical. Its so, that I even have difficulty altering by throttle foot slightly, because of the bumpiness. I am not on the bump stops but notice the soft coils are fully touching. Are the 'soft' part of the springs fully touching when parked on your setup?
Just saw you Bilstein valving thread. The picture you posted there suggests that the springs are installed the wrong way around. The tightly wound coils are supposed to be on the bottom - loose ones at the top. Not sure if that will make a ride difference or not.
Regardless, my tightly wound coils are almost touching/touching as well. The probable reason for doing this is to have droop travel among other things.
The other thing I noticed on the diagram depicting your valving on the Bilsteins. Your custom valving has much more of a nose, e.g initial valving has much higher values. This will feel better on a track car as it takes some of the initial mushiness out of the suspension but it may also be responsible for the the car feeling like it is on KYB's.
Personally, on a daily driver I like that initial softness on the factory setting but I know that a lot of people don't.
Regarding comfort and jitteriness. With the almost new unmodified factory IX MR suspension - car had 3000 miles when I got it - the ride in some parts of the city where I live was extremely jarring. Wheels did not come of the ground but the car was very unpleasant to drive on bad roads at lower speeds - the dampening spring combination did not feel well matched for that. High speed was OK regarding comfort but felt slightly floaty - not enough spring rate for high speed work.
Other issues I felt that the stock car had was the programming of the ACD unit that was always kicking in and out, e.g. disengaging the rear drive making the car squirrely to drive or making it difficult to drive a clean line unless you were absolutely maximally committed. And the stock suspension has too much bumpsteer for my taste - gives the illusion of a direct steering - much ado about nothing!!
Robispec springs improved the low speed ride comfort - I think the progressive nature of the springs is better matched with the stock valving. They are obviously stiffer at speed with the car handling much tighter - no more float. Bumpsteer slightly worse due to lowering of suspension by about 1". Some other lowering springs must be worse yet, eg. 1.4" drop on the front. Bumpsteer improved with Whiteline RCK - installed simultaneously with offset PSRS and spherical front LCA bushing. Not perfect yet - I may install Whiteline steering precision kit and see whether the slightly offset steering rack bushings improve things enough to avoid buying a more pricey bumpsteer kit.
Reprogrammed ACD controller calmed the whole car - much better to drive at any speed. Much less squirrely. Rear bump steer kit and trailing arm spherical bearings made the rear end more precise and may have reduced tire wear.
With the addition of a TRE Max-lock to all that the car feels more stable yet with a distinct RWD feel and much higher corner exit speeds - you can get on the throttle much earlier and modulate your line with the throttle very precisely without the car doing its own thing electronically.
As it is I find the car close to perfect for both daily driving and high speed work. The most uncomfortable thing at this point is the Walbro fuel pump noise. Suspension is firm and supple at the same time. Friend of mine that drives a Subaru Legacy commented on how comfortable the ride is. Another friend likened it to a BMW or Audi with regard to ride quality.
So apart from the slight ongoing bumpsteer in the front the car is perfect now as far as I am concerened. Certainly do not see the need for Oehlins .....
Regardless, my tightly wound coils are almost touching/touching as well. The probable reason for doing this is to have droop travel among other things.
The other thing I noticed on the diagram depicting your valving on the Bilsteins. Your custom valving has much more of a nose, e.g initial valving has much higher values. This will feel better on a track car as it takes some of the initial mushiness out of the suspension but it may also be responsible for the the car feeling like it is on KYB's.
Personally, on a daily driver I like that initial softness on the factory setting but I know that a lot of people don't.
Regarding comfort and jitteriness. With the almost new unmodified factory IX MR suspension - car had 3000 miles when I got it - the ride in some parts of the city where I live was extremely jarring. Wheels did not come of the ground but the car was very unpleasant to drive on bad roads at lower speeds - the dampening spring combination did not feel well matched for that. High speed was OK regarding comfort but felt slightly floaty - not enough spring rate for high speed work.
Other issues I felt that the stock car had was the programming of the ACD unit that was always kicking in and out, e.g. disengaging the rear drive making the car squirrely to drive or making it difficult to drive a clean line unless you were absolutely maximally committed. And the stock suspension has too much bumpsteer for my taste - gives the illusion of a direct steering - much ado about nothing!!
Robispec springs improved the low speed ride comfort - I think the progressive nature of the springs is better matched with the stock valving. They are obviously stiffer at speed with the car handling much tighter - no more float. Bumpsteer slightly worse due to lowering of suspension by about 1". Some other lowering springs must be worse yet, eg. 1.4" drop on the front. Bumpsteer improved with Whiteline RCK - installed simultaneously with offset PSRS and spherical front LCA bushing. Not perfect yet - I may install Whiteline steering precision kit and see whether the slightly offset steering rack bushings improve things enough to avoid buying a more pricey bumpsteer kit.
Reprogrammed ACD controller calmed the whole car - much better to drive at any speed. Much less squirrely. Rear bump steer kit and trailing arm spherical bearings made the rear end more precise and may have reduced tire wear.
With the addition of a TRE Max-lock to all that the car feels more stable yet with a distinct RWD feel and much higher corner exit speeds - you can get on the throttle much earlier and modulate your line with the throttle very precisely without the car doing its own thing electronically.
As it is I find the car close to perfect for both daily driving and high speed work. The most uncomfortable thing at this point is the Walbro fuel pump noise. Suspension is firm and supple at the same time. Friend of mine that drives a Subaru Legacy commented on how comfortable the ride is. Another friend likened it to a BMW or Audi with regard to ride quality.
So apart from the slight ongoing bumpsteer in the front the car is perfect now as far as I am concerened. Certainly do not see the need for Oehlins .....
The ride does match some of your comments. However at higher speeds it seems to get upset and frankly a bit scary compared to before. I found the completely stock Bilsteins very smooth at speed, and the stock springs with custom valving just a bit better, but still had way too much roll in the front. I think I should have tried the setup I had with a front bar and all the bushings I did first before I went to springs. On my other threads most were advising more spring to solve my roll over and tire wear issues. So I went a bit nuts with changes.
By the way, I have a WL Steering Rack kit for sale in the for sale forum. I ended up with two, its brand new in the bag, if you are interested.
I don't really understand the 'droop' function, and can't get my brain to understand why or how the coils are effective when they are touching. I did the rear diff plate readjust mod, so I have some benefit there, but never committed to the ACD reflash. I tried it out on track once, and it really didn't do anything I could feel at the time. Maybe it was my setup.
Currently the car is very tail happy. By very, I mean I still need to get used to it. I can kick out the rear at any right turn on surface street speeds. Also weird, is I can do it without throttle. There is so much grip in the front now the back will step out easily. Maybe too easily. Next track day will tell.
Can you identify the specific benefit of the added caster of the PSRSs? What about the lower LCA bushings? I didn't do the PSRS because of the hammering of the body that was needed to make the LCA fit afterward without binding. Did you have that issues?
Interesting, informative thread. I am going to run a similar setup... Installing Bilstein HD's with Robispec springs, Whiteline RCK, Energy master bushing kit, and 6 new rear control arm bushings tomorrow. I am thinking with the stiffer valving the Bilstein HD's will suit the Robispecs better than MR Bilsteins while still providing a plush ride and great handling.
I also plan to do the Weir 12 plate mod soon so glad to see you guys are getting good results with these setups.
I also plan to do the Weir 12 plate mod soon so glad to see you guys are getting good results with these setups.
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Joined: Jul 2003
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Don't think that ultimately the direction of the springs really will make much difference.
Don't get that high speed issue at all. Car feels very composed - much more so than it ever has. It did feel like that to an extent before the ACD flash and springs - I did those prior to the rear diff and the LCA -but yours obviously didn't.
Re: the PSRS, it is hard to quantify the contribution of each piece as I changed the whole LCA with all 3 bushings different. I installed the PSRS with the spacer up top - slightly taller than the one supplied - which creates a bit more clearance and is 'pro-lift' and will make the suspension a bit more supple. Did some grinding on the LCA for clearance which seemed sufficient - YMMV. With the changed LCA arms the car definitely turned in better, was more stable and had less roll, as well as improved bumpsteer behavior. Only a very minimal increase in NVH over road divider dots.
Certainly do not get any oversteer on neutral throttle but I did specifiy to Matt when I got the ACD flash that I did want neutral to very slight understeer at neutral throttle.
BTW, I am still on stock tire size which will make a difference in the car falling over in the front. I have an H&R 25mm FSB but have not installed it yet due to not looking forward to front subframe removal. Interestingly enough Ralliart Italy specs a 27mm FSB for gravel and a 29mm one for tarmac together with upgraded rear bars, making me think that the WL 26mm may be a better choice if I had to buy one again - the Group N cars run essentially the same rear diff as USDM with more lock and programmed ACD units.
Anyway, I would suspect that for track use or especially with stickier rubber the upgraded FSB would be very much desirable with my current set-up but haven't had a chance to try it yet on the track. But I certainly would not change my shock rates as long as I use the car as DD as they seem perfect for that.
Don't get that high speed issue at all. Car feels very composed - much more so than it ever has. It did feel like that to an extent before the ACD flash and springs - I did those prior to the rear diff and the LCA -but yours obviously didn't.
Re: the PSRS, it is hard to quantify the contribution of each piece as I changed the whole LCA with all 3 bushings different. I installed the PSRS with the spacer up top - slightly taller than the one supplied - which creates a bit more clearance and is 'pro-lift' and will make the suspension a bit more supple. Did some grinding on the LCA for clearance which seemed sufficient - YMMV. With the changed LCA arms the car definitely turned in better, was more stable and had less roll, as well as improved bumpsteer behavior. Only a very minimal increase in NVH over road divider dots.
Certainly do not get any oversteer on neutral throttle but I did specifiy to Matt when I got the ACD flash that I did want neutral to very slight understeer at neutral throttle.
BTW, I am still on stock tire size which will make a difference in the car falling over in the front. I have an H&R 25mm FSB but have not installed it yet due to not looking forward to front subframe removal. Interestingly enough Ralliart Italy specs a 27mm FSB for gravel and a 29mm one for tarmac together with upgraded rear bars, making me think that the WL 26mm may be a better choice if I had to buy one again - the Group N cars run essentially the same rear diff as USDM with more lock and programmed ACD units.
Anyway, I would suspect that for track use or especially with stickier rubber the upgraded FSB would be very much desirable with my current set-up but haven't had a chance to try it yet on the track. But I certainly would not change my shock rates as long as I use the car as DD as they seem perfect for that.
Bilstein noted that the springs 'had to' go in that way because of the perches. I didn't challenge them, nor did I have any position to. I know there are a few threads on which way around the Robi's are supposed to be, so I know its at least some question or concern.
The ride does match some of your comments. However at higher speeds it seems to get upset and frankly a bit scary compared to before. I found the completely stock Bilsteins very smooth at speed, and the stock springs with custom valving just a bit better, but still had way too much roll in the front. I think I should have tried the setup I had with a front bar and all the bushings I did first before I went to springs. On my other threads most were advising more spring to solve my roll over and tire wear issues. So I went a bit nuts with changes.
By the way, I have a WL Steering Rack kit for sale in the for sale forum. I ended up with two, its brand new in the bag, if you are interested.
I don't really understand the 'droop' function, and can't get my brain to understand why or how the coils are effective when they are touching. I did the rear diff plate readjust mod, so I have some benefit there, but never committed to the ACD reflash. I tried it out on track once, and it really didn't do anything I could feel at the time. Maybe it was my setup.
Currently the car is very tail happy. By very, I mean I still need to get used to it. I can kick out the rear at any right turn on surface street speeds. Also weird, is I can do it without throttle. There is so much grip in the front now the back will step out easily. Maybe too easily. Next track day will tell.
Can you identify the specific benefit of the added caster of the PSRSs? What about the lower LCA bushings? I didn't do the PSRS because of the hammering of the body that was needed to make the LCA fit afterward without binding. Did you have that issues?
The ride does match some of your comments. However at higher speeds it seems to get upset and frankly a bit scary compared to before. I found the completely stock Bilsteins very smooth at speed, and the stock springs with custom valving just a bit better, but still had way too much roll in the front. I think I should have tried the setup I had with a front bar and all the bushings I did first before I went to springs. On my other threads most were advising more spring to solve my roll over and tire wear issues. So I went a bit nuts with changes.
By the way, I have a WL Steering Rack kit for sale in the for sale forum. I ended up with two, its brand new in the bag, if you are interested.
I don't really understand the 'droop' function, and can't get my brain to understand why or how the coils are effective when they are touching. I did the rear diff plate readjust mod, so I have some benefit there, but never committed to the ACD reflash. I tried it out on track once, and it really didn't do anything I could feel at the time. Maybe it was my setup.
Currently the car is very tail happy. By very, I mean I still need to get used to it. I can kick out the rear at any right turn on surface street speeds. Also weird, is I can do it without throttle. There is so much grip in the front now the back will step out easily. Maybe too easily. Next track day will tell.
Can you identify the specific benefit of the added caster of the PSRSs? What about the lower LCA bushings? I didn't do the PSRS because of the hammering of the body that was needed to make the LCA fit afterward without binding. Did you have that issues?
Don't think that ultimately the direction of the springs really will make much difference.
Don't get that high speed issue at all. Car feels very composed - much more so than it ever has. It did feel like that to an extent before the ACD flash and springs - I did those prior to the rear diff and the LCA -but yours obviously didn't.
Re: the PSRS, it is hard to quantify the contribution of each piece as I changed the whole LCA with all 3 bushings different. I installed the PSRS with the spacer up top - slightly taller than the one supplied - which creates a bit more clearance and is 'pro-lift' and will make the suspension a bit more supple. Did some grinding on the LCA for clearance which seemed sufficient - YMMV. With the changed LCA arms the car definitely turned in better, was more stable and had less roll, as well as improved bumpsteer behavior. Only a very minimal increase in NVH over road divider dots.
Certainly do not get any oversteer on neutral throttle but I did specifiy to Matt when I got the ACD flash that I did want neutral to very slight understeer at neutral throttle.
BTW, I am still on stock tire size which will make a difference in the car falling over in the front. I have an H&R 25mm FSB but have not installed it yet due to not looking forward to front subframe removal. Interestingly enough Ralliart Italy specs a 27mm FSB for gravel and a 29mm one for tarmac together with upgraded rear bars, making me think that the WL 26mm may be a better choice if I had to buy one again - the Group N cars run essentially the same rear diff as USDM with more lock and programmed ACD units.
Anyway, I would suspect that for track use or especially with stickier rubber the upgraded FSB would be very much desirable with my current set-up but haven't had a chance to try it yet on the track. But I certainly would not change my shock rates as long as I use the car as DD as they seem perfect for that.
Don't get that high speed issue at all. Car feels very composed - much more so than it ever has. It did feel like that to an extent before the ACD flash and springs - I did those prior to the rear diff and the LCA -but yours obviously didn't.
Re: the PSRS, it is hard to quantify the contribution of each piece as I changed the whole LCA with all 3 bushings different. I installed the PSRS with the spacer up top - slightly taller than the one supplied - which creates a bit more clearance and is 'pro-lift' and will make the suspension a bit more supple. Did some grinding on the LCA for clearance which seemed sufficient - YMMV. With the changed LCA arms the car definitely turned in better, was more stable and had less roll, as well as improved bumpsteer behavior. Only a very minimal increase in NVH over road divider dots.
Certainly do not get any oversteer on neutral throttle but I did specifiy to Matt when I got the ACD flash that I did want neutral to very slight understeer at neutral throttle.
BTW, I am still on stock tire size which will make a difference in the car falling over in the front. I have an H&R 25mm FSB but have not installed it yet due to not looking forward to front subframe removal. Interestingly enough Ralliart Italy specs a 27mm FSB for gravel and a 29mm one for tarmac together with upgraded rear bars, making me think that the WL 26mm may be a better choice if I had to buy one again - the Group N cars run essentially the same rear diff as USDM with more lock and programmed ACD units.
Anyway, I would suspect that for track use or especially with stickier rubber the upgraded FSB would be very much desirable with my current set-up but haven't had a chance to try it yet on the track. But I certainly would not change my shock rates as long as I use the car as DD as they seem perfect for that.
Something like; buy evo, change FSB, exhaust & ECU tune, rear diff plate re-arrange. In that order of priority.