Update

My intial settings were -2.8 front and -1.8 in the rear 0 toe all around. Still needed more neg camber in the rear, so had to upgrade rear toe and LCA to get enough camber.

Ended up around -3.0 fr and -2.2 rr later in the season and finally was not rolling onto the edge in the rear.

12 Max Lock 1.5 way TRE rear diff has been installed here recently. Alignment is at -3.0 fr and -2.3 r, just patiently waiting for spring

 

wow that is a ton of rear camber, GL!

 

2.2 rear camber? unheard of

 

It really depends on a lot of things (tires, weight, suspension setup, etc.). I can't imagine having that much rear camber without having 200 pounds of ballast in the trunk of the car. I am at -1.8 in the rear and if anything, less camber is where I am heading.

Also, while looking at where the wear is getting to on the sidewall is a factor, hot tire temperatures from inside to out of the tire are the most useful.

 

My backend is extremely light. Everything from the front seats to the trunk is removed. I do have a harness/roll bar installed.

I was constantly having issues with the back end coming loose at turn in. I kept rolling onto the sidewalls and was overheating the tires, chunking etc. As I dialed in more negative camber, the problem went away. Am I right in saying too much neg camber in the rear will only affect straight line traction? Essentially, braking is where you will notice when you have too much rear neg camber.

I had AMS install the TRE rear diff and they replaced and addressed a few issues they found with the rear suspension, so it's possible there may have been some play in the rear suspension.

 

Like nollij was alluding to, get a tire pyrometer for yourself and learn how to use it.



No.

 

Too much negative camber in the rear will make the car push, generally.

I think that rear negative camber is a good thing to an extent though. I probably run a lot more than most people.

 

-3.0F, -2.0R
Worked well for me in both road racing and autox.