PL_MR

Hi,

I have a IX MR and I do lapping almost each week during summer(in also use car on road on weekend day), still on stock BBS 17'' wheel. I want to upgrade my suspension setup for ''cheap'' but when I look to everything, I'm not sure if I should wait to have budget for kw coilover or do the cheaper setup and run like this for let's say 2 years, upgrading other stuff and keep this for later and the project...

First, I was thinking of putting good 255/40/17 tire.
After, I need a drop, I was thinking about swift spec-R spring.

So I thought it's a great start but when I read on the forum after, I'm like, well If I do that, I might to that too:
Maybe revalve my bilstein MR shock so I would not blow them in one summer???
Install a whiteline roll center kit cause I'm not dropping for the show but for the handling.
In after all that, I just mist the whiteline rear sway bar.
Proper alignment, so maybe camber plate to achieve the spec I want.

Nice, I have a pretty nice setup!
But after all that, it cost money, those this value it or I should just throw some coilover and I would not need all those stuff???

What do you think??

And should I cut a little bit the bumstop or keep it like this?
After that, I need to go to the garage for a proper alignment...
What do you suggest for aligment??
I was thinking to something like
0 toe front and rear
-3 deg camber front
-2 deg camber rear
After the drop, will I be able do get those spec without camber plate?


What do you think of this little lapping suspension project?
Thanks!

engine58

iTrader: (1)

Yer posting in the X section

Raptord

iTrader: (10)

What? This is the I-IX section

PL: You won't be able to get that much camber without camber plates in the front. The max on OEM camber bolts is ~1.9. In the rear -1 or so should be enough I think, which is the max you can go on OEM rear suspension. If you haven't done the rear differential re-stack yet, consider that as it's pretty much a free upgrade.

I think you can get away with just installing the spec-r springs without revalving the Bilsteins.

PL_MR

alright,

For the camber bolt, I'm presently adjust to the max (same degre you mention).
But I thought the drop would affect the camber and give me a little bit more...

And as for the RCK, I should take that too or just with the spring, it should give nice handling?

Raptord

iTrader: (10)

No it won't change it, I have the RCE springs and the max camber I was able to get on the bolts only was ~1.9.

RCK should give a certain improvement from what I've heard everywhere, I don't know how much though. The Spec-R's don't drop the car that much so I don't think it'll be that bad if you decide to skip it.

chu

iTrader: (72)

If you're doing that much track, I'd suggest saving and do coilovers to get more adjustment out of the suspension. Ideally, you're only going to get faster, and may feel a spring/shock setup may be overwhelmed in a short time.

Also consider doing the bushings. I like the kit from Energy Suspension.

doneymik

coilovers. i know a lot of people who regret going springs or setups since you'll spend more overall rather than just saving and getting a good coilover set. do it right the first time and you wont have to do it again. good post.

hokiruu

iTrader: (19)

I forget the max negative camber you can get out of plates with OEM struts/Bilsteins is, but if it's enough, I'd go that route. If it's not much more, I'd skip plates and wait for coilovers.

I think except to get the alignment specs beyond what is possible on struts, only KW and higher end coilovers are worth it because of the valving.

I think you can get a lot out of the Bilsteins, and SpecR springs with good tires on the BBS. I had a rear bar and went back to stock. For my use, which was autocross at the time, I found it to be a false benefit. Although it does feel like it gives you more rotation, this is due to the inside rear tire being prone to lifting with it. Front bar is more beneficial but a PITA to install. Steady state, longer transitions you may like the rear bar though.

Ultimately though, I think the best route is the bite the bullet and get some really good coilovers, the best you can afford (maybe not 3 way if you have to ask) or wait and save until you're ready for them. It really is worth the difference, more so than any other mod besides the tires and driver IMO.

engine58

iTrader: (1)

My bad kind sir. Damn updated iPad . You are correct and I'm a ***.

PL_MR

well, thanks for answer, It seems to be more wise to wait for coilover.

What do you think of those coilover?
Megan racing track coilover.
Spring rate 10k/12k
Front and rear pillow mounts with camber plate
height and damping adjustable.
925$ including shipping

Surely not ohlins or KW but seems very good for the price and Megan is a ''good(discutable)'' know compagny and the racing world...

From what I read, people that track with those spring rate are happy and it's still a minimun acceptable for a nice summer drive.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Megan-Racing-Track-Coilovers-Mitsubishi-Lancer-EVO-9-05-06-MR-CDK-MLE03TS-/360539225965?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item53f1cfff6d&vxp=mtr

Raptord

iTrader: (10)

I wouldn't run Megan coilovers if I had them for free. The only sub-2k coilover I would put on my own car is Fortune Auto.

suby2evo

iTrader: (1)

Read smike's review he had those exact megan "track" coilovers and switched to bilstein and Spec R combo https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...-comments.html

suby2evo

iTrader: (1)

I am currently on re valved bilsteins and Swift and am quite happy. If you go this route I highly recommend these camber/caster plates http://performanceshock.com/index.ph...roducts_id=720

I'm at -2.3 camber up front with plenty of room for more and more importantly I got about a full degree of caster over stock! for $100 it is an awesome mod/value