I used a dremel with a cutting wheel for both areas.

 

Important note if you remove the inner brake dust shield, mine were taken out a long time ago BTW (street driving no problems).
The shield sheet metal sandwitches between the caliper and suspension mounting point, essentailly acting as a shim. If you remove this piece you need to keep that shimming effect otherwise the caliper will not sit perfectly centered to the rotor. We are only talking about .63 mm here, but it is enough to make a difference in brake performance and wear.
You can either cut those pieces off the stock shields or go to a good hardware store and find some metal plating of the same thickness and make new shims, (just in case when you sell the car it needs to be back to stock).
I also re-routed the speed sensor wire and wraped the end in heat shield material to keep it from the rotor heat.

 

im concerned fudging around with this will disrupt the air flow as the way designs meant it to be...

 

i'm also very interested in ducting. it seems to be a difficult thing though, the oil cooler is kinda in the way on the passenger side. anyone have ideas on how to remedy this? and i guess i've worked with computers for too long but has anyone ever thought of fan cooling your rotors? i mean... i really don't think it'd be that hard, some mounting brackets and some wiring is really all it takes. active cooling has always been better than passive yeah?

 

what do you guys think if i remove the plastic piece from the plastic underbody panel but not install the brake air guide?

 

You'd need a pretty powerful fan to get the same benefit that you have going 50 MPH down the road. If you're on a track, you'll have air blowing over the rotors at a considerable rate - over 400 cubic feet per minute using a 3" round inlet at 100 MPH. You would need a 6-7" fan drawing 5-6 amps to equal that.

 

I think you're going to see no benefit from doing this.

 

mmm you're right, i was thinking of after laps when you're car is sitting, but you'd have to have big fans to get enough air. anyone come up with ducting solutions yet? i want to copy.

read a few people breaking their guides as a result of highspeed drag, so that doesn't sound like a good solution, ducting seems ultimately the way to go.

 

I find the idea of the guides breaking under just high speed drag kind of odd. I have had them to about 145 mph regularly and haven't had any issues. I guess it might be a stress over time issue, or possibly they are breaking due to water or some other obstruction.

I know some of the racers have ducting installed, but I haven't seen a solution that is quite what I'm looking for yet. I may have to break out some tools and see what happens.

 

Here is a good ducting setup.

http://www.otcevo.com/brakeduct.asp