cross posting this since the mtorsports section doesnt get a ton of traffic.

im officially at a loss. my right side camber is maxxed at right about -3 and cannot go further.

-ohlins rt's with fortune auto camber plates (right side is maxxed out)
- just put in a brand new oem camber bolt with no change
- front lower control arms have been swapped with no change.

the drivers side requires me to set the camber plate to max positive to get -3, and will almost swing to -5 or more if i go max negative on the plate.

what am i missing? what else can i check? the car was in a minor traffic accident that required a new fender and acd pump BUT that was on the DRIVERS side not the passenger side.

the strut bolts were pretty gummed up when i originally installed the coilovers, is it possible i somehow damaged the hole in the hub (got it out of round) pounding on the bolt?

Nate this one has me completely stumped...not doubting your competence checking the alignment but I still think the issue is the floor the car is sitting on. I doubt anything is bent. The hub is cast iron not something soft like aluminum so that hole becoming damaged is unlikely.

Plus given this I think it pretty much confirms my suspicions.

How is your camber in the rear?

Have you tried flipping your car in the garage to see how that changes things?

If your garage is slopped downward to the left your driver side camber is going to read more aggressive i.e -5 instead of -4 and as such you passenger side would have the same effect but opposite as in -3 instead of -4

its fine, i question my own competence all the time lol.

im just using numbers for reference (ie took an unlevelfloor reading, swapped the camber bolt and then took the same reading to see if there was any change), im not trying to dial any settings in. the difference in achievable angle is MASSIVE. i have a picture of what happens if i set the drivers side to max negative on the plat with bolt facing out, but its at a weird angle so its a little deceiving...trust me its a TON of camber, which solely by visual inspection the passenger side doesnt even come close.

i fell like ive got to be missing something stupid.

might as well just ask the stupid question...are camber plates sided/directional? is it possible i could rotate the plate 180 and have a different amount of adjustment?

Did you max out your camber bolt on the strut too to get more camber from the top plates?

Maybe the bolt you have is different?

I use the stock OEM camber bolt.

And how much more -camber do you want?

-3.0 is good enough for you.

Yeah from first post:
-brand new oem camber bolt
-arrow pointing away from engine

Need to have availability of at least -4 (so I can adjust between 3 and 4 if needed) for my switch to r comps next year. Right now I just barely get -3.

I can't say 100% of them are but my upper mount plate is directional when mounting onto the camber plate. The camber plate is also directional but only because it's an offset caster plate.

mine are not offset, so my original guess was that they are not side specific/directional, but oddly enough the main hole in the plate is roughly 7.5 inches which is odd to me. However, both plates are in the same orientation so back to square one.

Really stupid question to offend you: are you sure that the car is level?

Note that I'm not asking if the ground under the car is level; I'm asking if the chassis is parallel to the ground.

Yeah they are definitely not side specific. The only thing that wouldnt allow you to dial in more negative camber is if you installed them north south such that you could gain some caster. But if this were the case you would have said that so it's not your issue.

I'm running -3.5 up front and you're right, the negative camber is clearly noticeable once you get up there. Can you snap some photos of what the top of your plates look like? Is the carrier housing hitting the plate or are the bolts the limiting factor? If the latter you could always move the bolts to more inward holes. Im once again stating the obvious but as I sadi before Im completely stumped.

Im trying to think what else it could be...any chance you damaged the eccentric when you were banging it in?

Where are you going with this? how would having a little rake built in affect things? Or are you talking about side to side levelness?

I still think this is a result of his garage being not level and its throwing everything off. I know he mentioned that he was merely taking reference measurements. But then it begs the question, how do you know you are limited to -3?

I was - apparently not obviously - referring to chassis tilt to the side. If the chassis is tilted, then the camber is shifted from one side to the other.

no ones gonna offend me. i use literally all my brain power for work, ive been known to do some pretty dub stuff outside of work LOL

it may be urban legend, but i was once told that garage floors at race tracks are built to be quite level for situations just like this. using a race track garage and my gauge i came up with the -3 readings.

i assumed you meant side to side. if i have time ill try and make an alignment pad tomorrow, ive had the stuff around for months but never got around to it because ive just been keeping the front toe in check.

however, im not sure how the ride height could be off enough to cause me to be mechanically maxxed out?

Well, I'll admit that a car with several degrees of body-tilt would probably be noticed, but Evos are often tilted, so it's worth checking. I don't think you need a perfectly level floor to do this; just measure the heights of the rocker or, even simpler, take a string with a weight and make sure that both rear-view mirrors are the same distance from the ground. I've seen bone-stock Evos with a quarter-inch difference side-to-side.

quick/dirty measuring shows almost 1/2" variation measuring floor to bottom edge of fender at center, mirros show maybe 1/4"...so you may have found an issue (ill say its too soon to call it the problem).

i have flooring tiles laying around in the basement. ive never quite completely understood how to go about leveling the 3 corners with the water method. do you leave the bucket in the center somewhere or what? or i think ive seen an easier method with just some tubing filled with water placed on each wheel?