Well, even if we use .5", on a car that 5' wide, that's only half a degree. It's not helping (assuming that the car is leaning towards the side with less camber), but that can't be the whole story.

 

yeah i agree, and its something i will address. but there still has toe something else going on. also of note the guy that ran the coilovers before me didn't have this issue (i was thinking maybe a bent coilover in some way could maybe affect this)

 

Yes, a bent shock can have huge effects on camber (assuming struts, as we have in the front). But that should be noticeable, if not visually, by the awful ride (since bent shocks don't compress easily, if at all).

Do you know if you only have limited camber on one side or if you also have excessive camber on the other side? The only two ways that I can think of that would cause a shift of camber from one side to the other are (a) the car is tilted and (b) the sub-frame is shifted. In contrast, if the problem is only on one side, we have quite a few things to consider.

 

id say thats a pretty complicated question. to me, the drivers side seems "normal", since the stock bolt is supposed to maxe around -2 and then i would thinks its sensible to get another degree from aftermarket stuff. so my minimum neg camber on the drivers side would be -3 with the bolt set to max and -2 set to min with another 2-3 degrees available at the plate.

of course its possible that the car was in an accident with the previous owner that i dont know about. im guessing there is no way to check the subframe without taking it out...

 

This may not seem helpful, but if this can't be resolved, then I'd put some stock shocks (incl. stock upper plates) on the car and measure the camber and caster. That will tell quite a bit about the chassis, including the front subframe.

 

yeah thatll be last resort over this or next winter. as of right now its just an annoyance and not a problem per say since my current tires dont need more camber.

 

alright, so i took a swing at leveling the car. i needed to lift the drivers rear just over 2 inches and the pass rear right about 3inches

it probably wasnt perfect, but probably produced mildly useful readings. drivers side was almost dead on -3.5 and passenger side ill call -3.2 (the spc gauge is marked in 0.2 increments). i guess this means my driving is still the issue and not the alignment

if the pass side could magically get to -3.5, i probably wouldnt need to even trouble shoot any further...or at least it would be another 5 years till the day i make it onto hossiers.