im officially at a loss. my right side camber is maxxed at right about -3 and cannot go further.

-ohlins rt's with fortune auto camber plate (right side is maxxed out)
- just put in a brand new oem camber bolt with no change

the drivers side requires me to set the camber plate to max positive to get -3, and will almost swing to -5 or more if i go max negative on the plate.

what am i missing? what else can i check? the car was in a minor traffic accident that required a new fender and acd pump BUT that was on the DRIVERS side not the passenger side.

the strut bolts were pretty gummed up when i originally installed the coilovers, is it possible i somehow damaged the hole in the hub (got it out of round) pounding on the bolt?

 

Mine recently did this when I went in for another alignment. Previously, they were pretty equal from side to side.

I tried moving the subframe over more to the passenger side. It didn't move much more than ~1/8".

It is pretty odd and I don't know how it happened. Recently I had my transmission and transfer case built and ER did the install. I don't know of anything that could be done during install that would cause that kind of shift to the driver's side besides them possibly dropping the subframe. But, I already tried moving it over to the passenger side.

I also installed Nagisa LCAs and dropped the car 3/4" in front and have tried making up the shift by reducing the length of the driver side arm.

Really, if the length of the arms don't change then the only thing that can shift is the subframe, then that is the extent of what is adjustable. Maybe it is just a bit of a "wort"...

 

my problem has persisted through a transmission swap.

 

absolutely positive you have the camber adjustment bolt set the correct direction? what's the max camber you get with the bolt set in the other direction?

 

yeah, arrow is pointed out towards wheel. second guessed/double checked it a bunch of times previously.

my garage here isnt leveled so i cant give actual measurements, but the tire definitely stands up if i flip the bolt.

 

What are you using to measure the camber? I bought a kit about a year ago to perform my own alignments. Are you using the Smartstring gauge I almost bought of of you?

Personally I've struggled with getting my camber dialed in and I attribute it to my garage not being flat. I used the waterbucket method along with tiles to shim to the right height but I could never measure my camber confidently.

So where am I going with this? If the floor isnt level it is going to throw off your reading. Maybe try backing the car in and take another measurement and see if it changes?

 

car was previously measured on a known flat surface with an SPC gauge. bolt pointed out and plate at max negative i just barely get -3 degrees.

previously, i went for an alignment after accidentally flipping the bolts backwards, and had the drivers plate maxed out and could barely get -2.5. when i came home and flipped the bolt there was a profound change just looking at the rotor. i was hoping this would happen when i replaced the bolt today...but nothing changed.

no issues dialing it in since i just have to max out everything on the right to get anything useful. this will of course become a bigger problem when i try to get off street tires.

 

forgot another helpful piece of info, the control arms were also swapped with no change to the situation.

 

Bringing this back into question. Had a real alignment done a few weeks ago and the issue still persists. Drivers side MINIMUM camber achievable is -3.2 passenger side MAXIMUM achievable camber is -3.0. Ran a set of bfg r1's for two events and of course the right front wear is showing a need for more camber...

 

Try slotting the hole on the strut to use for now, which should give you a bit more negative camber, until you can figure out the cause.

 

Has the right corner ever been damaged? I know you mentioned the control arms were swapped but what about the knuckle?

And have you tried using a new eccentric bolt for the passenger side? I wonder if that somehow got damaged? Sure would be a cheap fix. Other than that this really doesnt add up...

 

Sounds like something is bent..

 

I went through all of this with mine. The right side was maxxed and the left straight up.
Long story short...the alignment rack level had not been checked in quite some time.


I now use a camber gage and string on a level floor.

 

Well, I went through the EXACT same thing but haven't had it back on the tiles to try it again in my new garage. Left side min I could get was -3.2 and right side maxed at -2.9 Same ideas - bought new bolts and flipped them until the cows came home. So I started to think subframe. But I also removed the control arms to push in new bushings, now I'm starting to think about those...

 

I just did an alignment last week with my FA coilovers and had no problem setting it at -3.5 front. There was a bit of difference between the two corners where the plate was set but its probably normal. I know i had it slightly past -4 and could probably go even further if i completely undid the 4 top hat bolts, since there are several different holes in the bearing mount piece. Can you gain more camber this way possibly, or maybe the two sides dont match?