How to: ABS removal with ACD working Evo ix
How to: ABS removal with ACD working Evo ix
Figure this may be useful to some as I have read many people wanting to do it without much of a write up or feedback.
I won't go into much of the ideas behind why you would want to remove the abs. For me it was to clean up my engine bay when I shaved it and to have a consistent pedal feel and full control of my brakes. There is a write up floating around about which wires to splice and wires to bypass the abs ecu to remove it altogether.
For those who don't know, the wheel speed sensors pass through the abs ecu then get routed to the acd ecu for it to work. Here's how I did it:
-I separated the solenoid unit from the abs ecu and left the abs ecu plugged into the harness. This way the ecu acts as a pass through for the sensors needed. The ecu can be tucked or hidden.
-source an Evo rs or equivalent non abs master cylinder with the proportioning valves. 17/16" I believe is the markings and size of the piston of the Evo rs unit. I tried a lancer master first but it was a smaller piston 7/8" which made the pedal too squishy for me. I'm also running large endless bbk so more piston is better for me. Oem brembo may be different.
-source oem lancer or Evo rs/non abs hardlines for the bay to route the master. Should connect straight to the connection by front subframe for rears.
That's about it. You will have the abs light on your dash if you care about it. You could pull the bulb if it bothers you. My feedback so far has been daily and spirited driving with a few laps on the local track. Since you don't have abs now, your foot becomes the abs so drive carefully until you get used to it. Pedal feel with the master I went with is identical as before and stays firm. My only initial complaint I think is from not bedding in the pads enough yet. I'm getting inconsistent ware on my rears. It's only on the outside of the rotor, but it's not dusting all of the rust on the outside 1/4" on the rotor. The inside of the rotor seems fine.
That's it! Comments, questions and feedback welcomed!
:smthumbup:mitsi:
I won't go into much of the ideas behind why you would want to remove the abs. For me it was to clean up my engine bay when I shaved it and to have a consistent pedal feel and full control of my brakes. There is a write up floating around about which wires to splice and wires to bypass the abs ecu to remove it altogether.
For those who don't know, the wheel speed sensors pass through the abs ecu then get routed to the acd ecu for it to work. Here's how I did it:
-I separated the solenoid unit from the abs ecu and left the abs ecu plugged into the harness. This way the ecu acts as a pass through for the sensors needed. The ecu can be tucked or hidden.
-source an Evo rs or equivalent non abs master cylinder with the proportioning valves. 17/16" I believe is the markings and size of the piston of the Evo rs unit. I tried a lancer master first but it was a smaller piston 7/8" which made the pedal too squishy for me. I'm also running large endless bbk so more piston is better for me. Oem brembo may be different.
-source oem lancer or Evo rs/non abs hardlines for the bay to route the master. Should connect straight to the connection by front subframe for rears.
That's about it. You will have the abs light on your dash if you care about it. You could pull the bulb if it bothers you. My feedback so far has been daily and spirited driving with a few laps on the local track. Since you don't have abs now, your foot becomes the abs so drive carefully until you get used to it. Pedal feel with the master I went with is identical as before and stays firm. My only initial complaint I think is from not bedding in the pads enough yet. I'm getting inconsistent ware on my rears. It's only on the outside of the rotor, but it's not dusting all of the rust on the outside 1/4" on the rotor. The inside of the rotor seems fine.
That's it! Comments, questions and feedback welcomed!
:smthumbup:mitsi:
Newbie
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: Portage, MI
Figure this may be useful to some as I have read many people wanting to do it without much of a write up or feedback.
I won't go into much of the ideas behind why you would want to remove the abs. For me it was to clean up my engine bay when I shaved it and to have a consistent pedal feel and full control of my brakes. There is a write up floating around about which wires to splice and wires to bypass the abs ecu to remove it altogether.
For those who don't know, the wheel speed sensors pass through the abs ecu then get routed to the acd ecu for it to work. Here's how I did it:
-I separated the solenoid unit from the abs ecu and left the abs ecu plugged into the harness. This way the ecu acts as a pass through for the sensors needed. The ecu can be tucked or hidden.
-source an Evo rs or equivalent non abs master cylinder with the proportioning valves. 17/16" I believe is the markings and size of the piston of the Evo rs unit. I tried a lancer master first but it was a smaller piston 7/8" which made the pedal too squishy for me. I'm also running large endless bbk so more piston is better for me. Oem brembo may be different.
-source oem lancer or Evo rs/non abs hardlines for the bay to route the master. Should connect straight to the connection by front subframe for rears.
That's about it. You will have the abs light on your dash if you care about it. You could pull the bulb if it bothers you. My feedback so far has been daily and spirited driving with a few laps on the local track. Since you don't have abs now, your foot becomes the abs so drive carefully until you get used to it. Pedal feel with the master I went with is identical as before and stays firm. My only initial complaint I think is from not bedding in the pads enough yet. I'm getting inconsistent ware on my rears. It's only on the outside of the rotor, but it's not dusting all of the rust on the outside 1/4" on the rotor. The inside of the rotor seems fine.
That's it! Comments, questions and feedback welcomed!
:smthumbup:mitsi:
I won't go into much of the ideas behind why you would want to remove the abs. For me it was to clean up my engine bay when I shaved it and to have a consistent pedal feel and full control of my brakes. There is a write up floating around about which wires to splice and wires to bypass the abs ecu to remove it altogether.
For those who don't know, the wheel speed sensors pass through the abs ecu then get routed to the acd ecu for it to work. Here's how I did it:
-I separated the solenoid unit from the abs ecu and left the abs ecu plugged into the harness. This way the ecu acts as a pass through for the sensors needed. The ecu can be tucked or hidden.
-source an Evo rs or equivalent non abs master cylinder with the proportioning valves. 17/16" I believe is the markings and size of the piston of the Evo rs unit. I tried a lancer master first but it was a smaller piston 7/8" which made the pedal too squishy for me. I'm also running large endless bbk so more piston is better for me. Oem brembo may be different.
-source oem lancer or Evo rs/non abs hardlines for the bay to route the master. Should connect straight to the connection by front subframe for rears.
That's about it. You will have the abs light on your dash if you care about it. You could pull the bulb if it bothers you. My feedback so far has been daily and spirited driving with a few laps on the local track. Since you don't have abs now, your foot becomes the abs so drive carefully until you get used to it. Pedal feel with the master I went with is identical as before and stays firm. My only initial complaint I think is from not bedding in the pads enough yet. I'm getting inconsistent ware on my rears. It's only on the outside of the rotor, but it's not dusting all of the rust on the outside 1/4" on the rotor. The inside of the rotor seems fine.
That's it! Comments, questions and feedback welcomed!
:smthumbup:mitsi:
Newbie
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: Portage, MI
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