Preferred Camber plates for oem struts?
#1
Preferred Camber plates for oem struts?
I am looking to get some camber plates for my evo 8, to fit my oem bilsteins with swift springs.
After doing a bunch of reading, i learned that people have noise issues or fitment issues, etc with aftermarket camber plates.
I see there are works, cusco, teins... looking to hear about actual experiences while using oem struts please.
Lets hear who is happy with their aftermarket adj camber plates & what brand used on oem struts
is there an effective configurable camber bolt option instead of using camber plates?
After doing a bunch of reading, i learned that people have noise issues or fitment issues, etc with aftermarket camber plates.
I see there are works, cusco, teins... looking to hear about actual experiences while using oem struts please.
Lets hear who is happy with their aftermarket adj camber plates & what brand used on oem struts
is there an effective configurable camber bolt option instead of using camber plates?
#2
Evolved Member
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How much camber are you looking to achieve up front? Reason I ask is because the OEM camber bolts will yield about -2 degrees if you have them in the more aggressive setting. If you seek more camber than that then a set of plates would be recommended. I believe there are bolts you can buy but from what I've been told then are prove to shifting so it's not recommended.
Personally I have experience with camber plates from Cusco Ohlins and Ciro Design Racing. Now my Ohlins plates came with my Ohlins coilovers but they would fit on the OEM struts as well. But you asked for personal experience combined with the OEM struts so guess I will only mention the Cusco and the CDR plates.
Back in the day I picked up a set of Cusco plates. The quality is very good they use quality spherical bearings made by NMB and I really have no complaints from them and used them for a couple years.
Eventually the bearings needed replacement and I choose to upgrade to a set of CDR plates as I wanted to dial in some additional caster and had heard good things about those plates. I used the CDR plates with OEM bilsteins paired with Robispec springs and really like them too.
Then I picked up a set of Ohlins and used the plates that came with the Ohlins for maybe 500 miles until I pulled them off and swapped on my CDR plates and I've been using those ever since.
So as you can tell my preference is the CDR plates as I think they are built well add caster too and I like to support a fellow evo enthusiast. Rick also stands behind his products and if you have any questions he is always happy to assist.
Hope this information is helpful. I know you are asking for first hand experience so that's all I have to provide. I know a couple buddies who had Tein plates and they had no complaints with those. The Works plates are supposedly rebranded Teins too FWIW. There are a few other brands you can look into and will all work with the stock struts assuming you use the correct spacer below as well as the correct top nut.
Personally I have experience with camber plates from Cusco Ohlins and Ciro Design Racing. Now my Ohlins plates came with my Ohlins coilovers but they would fit on the OEM struts as well. But you asked for personal experience combined with the OEM struts so guess I will only mention the Cusco and the CDR plates.
Back in the day I picked up a set of Cusco plates. The quality is very good they use quality spherical bearings made by NMB and I really have no complaints from them and used them for a couple years.
Eventually the bearings needed replacement and I choose to upgrade to a set of CDR plates as I wanted to dial in some additional caster and had heard good things about those plates. I used the CDR plates with OEM bilsteins paired with Robispec springs and really like them too.
Then I picked up a set of Ohlins and used the plates that came with the Ohlins for maybe 500 miles until I pulled them off and swapped on my CDR plates and I've been using those ever since.
So as you can tell my preference is the CDR plates as I think they are built well add caster too and I like to support a fellow evo enthusiast. Rick also stands behind his products and if you have any questions he is always happy to assist.
Hope this information is helpful. I know you are asking for first hand experience so that's all I have to provide. I know a couple buddies who had Tein plates and they had no complaints with those. The Works plates are supposedly rebranded Teins too FWIW. There are a few other brands you can look into and will all work with the stock struts assuming you use the correct spacer below as well as the correct top nut.
#3
Thanks for sharing.
The last time i took my car in to be aligned, there was a 0.3° difference between the front left & right side (-1.7 & -2.0°). The guy claimed he couldnt fudge the spindle any with both strut bolts loose. when he switched the bolt position, he claimed both were ~ -0.5° / -0.8°.
Im just looking to balance out side to side & run ~1.5° up front.
CDR = ciro design racing.. thanks
Thanks again for your experience.
The last time i took my car in to be aligned, there was a 0.3° difference between the front left & right side (-1.7 & -2.0°). The guy claimed he couldnt fudge the spindle any with both strut bolts loose. when he switched the bolt position, he claimed both were ~ -0.5° / -0.8°.
Im just looking to balance out side to side & run ~1.5° up front.
CDR = ciro design racing.. thanks
Thanks again for your experience.
Last edited by Aby@MIL.SPEC; Jun 24, 2016 at 12:02 PM.
#4
Evolved Member
iTrader: (41)
No problem!
Yeah CDR is Ciro Design Racing... website here in case googling isnt your thing
http://cirodesignracing.com/
As for the difference in camber side to side I know others have had that issue but it was never an issue on my car so guess I got lucky. Supposedly if you've ever had your front subframe off the vehicle this can cause a mismatched camber scenario. If your main motivator is to match the camber settings then it might be advantageous to loosen up the sub frame bolts and try to shift it over a smidge and that may do the trick. Certainly couldn't hurt to try.
Yeah CDR is Ciro Design Racing... website here in case googling isnt your thing
http://cirodesignracing.com/
As for the difference in camber side to side I know others have had that issue but it was never an issue on my car so guess I got lucky. Supposedly if you've ever had your front subframe off the vehicle this can cause a mismatched camber scenario. If your main motivator is to match the camber settings then it might be advantageous to loosen up the sub frame bolts and try to shift it over a smidge and that may do the trick. Certainly couldn't hurt to try.
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Aby@MIL.SPEC (Jun 24, 2016)
#7
Evolving Member
iTrader: (17)
Just in case you never solutioned this Aby, I've got some for sale that work fine on stock struts. I moved to Ohlins, and now made some of Dallas' plates for more caster.
https://www.evolutionm.net/g/album/4180239
Lemme know. I'll sell them to you cheap.
https://www.evolutionm.net/g/album/4180239
Lemme know. I'll sell them to you cheap.
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#8
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
Worth noting, you're going to see an increase in NVH regardless what camber plate you go with. They all use a spherical bearing, so they're all going to transmit more than the stock rubber piece.
#9
Evolved Member
iTrader: (41)
That is almost always the case except for the set that Nimpoc linked above. Those hav the spherical encased in poly from the looks of it. Still going to see an increase in NVH but not as much as amost all the other plates where the carrier housing is all metal.
Its funny though bc I've dont almost every bushing on my car some replaced with poly some sphericals and maybe Im deaf crazy or a combo of the two but I dont feel like they added that much NVH. I suppose the rear diff mounts driveshaft and lower engine mount added some but things like camber plates PSRS I didn't notice a thing.
Its funny though bc I've dont almost every bushing on my car some replaced with poly some sphericals and maybe Im deaf crazy or a combo of the two but I dont feel like they added that much NVH. I suppose the rear diff mounts driveshaft and lower engine mount added some but things like camber plates PSRS I didn't notice a thing.
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Thanks for sharing.
The last time i took my car in to be aligned, there was a 0.3° difference between the front left & right side (-1.7 & -2.0°). The guy claimed he couldnt fudge the spindle any with both strut bolts loose. when he switched the bolt position, he claimed both were ~ -0.5° / -0.8°.
Im just looking to balance out side to side & run ~1.5° up front.
CDR = ciro design racing.. thanks
Thanks again for your experience.
The last time i took my car in to be aligned, there was a 0.3° difference between the front left & right side (-1.7 & -2.0°). The guy claimed he couldnt fudge the spindle any with both strut bolts loose. when he switched the bolt position, he claimed both were ~ -0.5° / -0.8°.
Im just looking to balance out side to side & run ~1.5° up front.
CDR = ciro design racing.. thanks
Thanks again for your experience.
In my experience over time the oem camber bolt actually wears down and needs replaced if you want to get it perfect on each side. I replaced one side when I messed up the threads and when I got it aligned the new side was at -2 on the dot and the old one, on the pass side maxed out at -1.4. So i got a new one for the pass side and they were easily able to get it to -2. Just something to think about
#12
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I ordered H&R camber bolt to increase the negative front camber.
I am on OEM Bilstein and Robispec springs + Super pro roll center kit, and I had -1.5 / -1.7 degree camber when aligned last time.
OEM strut upper mount bolt / chassis holes have some margin, and I suspect this gives this difference (if the alignment machine is indeed accurate). I partially loaded outside of the front tire and loosened the upper mount nuts, then I saw some movement on driver's side where had less negative camber (of course with "thud" sound). Hope this equalize both sides camber to about -1.7 degree, and I would be very happy if this H&R bolt can give extra -0.8 degree on both sides.
Just a quick question if any one tried this bolt already, H&R goes to upper hole of strut where stock camber setting bolt is located? Subie guys insist it goes to lower hole as upper hole already has camber setting bolt.
I am on OEM Bilstein and Robispec springs + Super pro roll center kit, and I had -1.5 / -1.7 degree camber when aligned last time.
OEM strut upper mount bolt / chassis holes have some margin, and I suspect this gives this difference (if the alignment machine is indeed accurate). I partially loaded outside of the front tire and loosened the upper mount nuts, then I saw some movement on driver's side where had less negative camber (of course with "thud" sound). Hope this equalize both sides camber to about -1.7 degree, and I would be very happy if this H&R bolt can give extra -0.8 degree on both sides.
Just a quick question if any one tried this bolt already, H&R goes to upper hole of strut where stock camber setting bolt is located? Subie guys insist it goes to lower hole as upper hole already has camber setting bolt.