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Lowering the car, without sacrifice...?

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Old Mar 31, 2004 | 11:03 PM
  #16  
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From: Nor Cal
Originally posted by ogvw
"Mttam510, hold you fire! Hold your fire....... I think you have demolished the entire thread!"

very well spoken sir, and thank you for the lesson.
"Spaulding...watch your language!" "Sorry Grandpa....I forgot."
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Old Mar 31, 2004 | 11:41 PM
  #17  
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THanks for the Responses guys!

Im looking at the TEIN FLEX right now..... we will see
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Old Apr 1, 2004 | 05:59 AM
  #18  
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I've been following the thread and even though I don't have the Evo yet, suspension will be one of my first mods and I'm interested in getting rid of the fender gap without losing any of the handling the car is known for.

So has anyone who's lowered the car actually lost some of the handling and what springs did you use? I thought someone on here with the Tein S springs ran it at the track and their lap times were better.
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Old Apr 1, 2004 | 07:03 AM
  #19  
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My Tanabe springs have been great. They seem to be a nice overall spring. I race my Evo in Solo II ESP. At the last autox I won ESP by 2.5 seconds. In the class there was a Z28 Camaro, WS6 T/A, and two other Evo's..one with Tein S Techs (placed 2nd) and one with coil overs (not sure brand)(placed 3rd).
Driving probably played the biggest part in the 2.5 second difference...but my Tanabes work great...
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Old Apr 1, 2004 | 01:33 PM
  #20  
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From: LA
Originally posted by mttam510


??????????? If a damper has more valving that the spring, the car will "ratchet" itself down untill there is no "bump" travel left, a soft spring will NOT wear out a damper because the piston inside the shock is moving further in its available travel. It's still oils through holes and shims to dictate when this happens. As far as sweet spots go, unless you have position sensitinve dampers with bypass tubes, you can forget about that too....
So you are saying that shock are not desigend to operate in a specific range, ie not position sensitive? it is still oil though holes and seals but more action means more oil which traslates into faster ware if this were not the case you would not see bouncy civics with stock shock because the damper can operate effectively in any range so you can simply shrrten the springs fix the alignment and have a car that operates as if it were stock? also this would eliminat the need for different travel lengths in shock (with in reason) im not following you but as you have displayed you are well read i would like to understand what you mean.

Also what you are talking about with runing out of bump travel can only happen in a short range time, infact it would be the same sort of circumstance that would lead to shock fade...something that does occur even in more mundane areas like SoloII in shocks that dont posses enough dampening force to control the springs they are matted to.

Last edited by absinthe; Apr 1, 2004 at 01:48 PM.
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Old Apr 1, 2004 | 01:38 PM
  #21  
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From: LA
Originally posted by 2literv8eater
I've been following the thread and even though I don't have the Evo yet, suspension will be one of my first mods and I'm interested in getting rid of the fender gap without losing any of the handling the car is known for.

So has anyone who's lowered the car actually lost some of the handling and what springs did you use? I thought someone on here with the Tein S springs ran it at the track and their lap times were better.
springs alone wont do much for you, you would be better off with alignment and a sway bar.
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Old Apr 1, 2004 | 11:11 PM
  #22  
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From: SoCal
*hand to ear* BEEP BEEP BEEP "hear that boys and girls? I think thats the sound of the bus backing up for Mttam510 to take Absinthe to school!"

By the way.....he was motorsports manager for "the" primier suspension manufacturer for 3 or so years, he may know a thing or two about dampers/springs

*bullet proof vest enabled*
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Old Apr 1, 2004 | 11:40 PM
  #23  
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From: Nor Cal
Originally posted by absinthe


So you are saying that shock are not desigend to operate in a specific range, ie not position sensitive?
First of all I am still trying to figure out what you are trying to say here...but I will answer with what I think that I am hearing...ok? Your dampers are velocity sensitive, not position sensitive. For a look @ a position sensitive damper peep this....<p> http://foxracingshox.com/website/Pro...bCategoryId=40<p>....see this damper has "bypass" valves set up, which allows oil, to "bypass the main piston (yes, the one that is connected to the polished shaft on your strut too), under extremely high "bump" force ie. hitting a large pothole or coming off of a jump, this design relieves the posssiblity of hydraulic lock (as fluids for the most part are non compressable......there is a difference in "high end" brake fluid though)...as the main piston would be traveling at a very high velocity, the oil on the "compression" side of the piston could not flow fast enough even through the main valve stack of the piston. Check out this if you are interested in learning something about damping....<p>http://www.ohlins.com/car_manuals.shtml<p>
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Old Apr 1, 2004 | 11:55 PM
  #24  
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From: Nor Cal
Originally posted by absinthe


it is still oil though holes and seals but more action means more oil which traslates into faster ware if this were not the case you would not see bouncy civics with stock shock because the damper can operate effectively in any range so you can simply shrrten the springs fix the alignment and have a car that operates as if it were stock? .
what in the **** are you trying to say? First of all if its oil through the seals.....THEN OF COURSE THE CAR IS BOUNCING AROUND CAUSE THE ****IN" STRUTS ARE BLOWN!!!!!!! OIL SHOUL NOT PASS THROUGH SEALS IN A DAMPER UNLESS IT IS BROKEN!!!!!! MORE OIL....MORE OIL WHERE? IN SIBERIA.......YES, I DO HEAR THAT THERE ARE LARGE RESERVES THERE....THE DAMPER CANNOT OPPERATE IN ANY RANGE IF IT IS NOT VALVED (see the ohlins manual on the previous post....valving something that you can actually "build into a damper) CORRECTLY.......ALIGNMENT WILL NOT FIX THIS....getting the car bump steered would be a good idea....if you were really that hardcore......I bet your car's bump-steer has been set up correctly....yep.....oh wait you probably don't know what that is.....


I really support the forum and I think that there a lot of people out the with good information to share, but when one just begins to utter such foul BS....it really is not good for the forum....if your not sure, don't make it sound like you know what the hell your talkin' bout, because it is obvious that you don't....
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Old Apr 2, 2004 | 12:03 AM
  #25  
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From: Nor Cal
Originally posted by absinthe


...something that does occur even in more mundane areas like SoloII in shocks that dont posses enough dampening force to control the springs they are matted to.
DAMPING is what a strut or shock does, but DAMPENING is what occurs in your shorts after you **** yourself.....
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Old Apr 2, 2004 | 12:04 AM
  #26  
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From: SoCal
I think I just pissed myself!
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Old Apr 3, 2004 | 07:11 PM
  #27  
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Originally posted by mttam510


DAMPING is what a strut or shock does, but DAMPENING is what occurs in your shorts after you **** yourself.....
Actually they are the same thing. They are all derived from Damp.

On another note. The stock strutsare heavily dampened and the stock spring rates are considered mild. The harsh ride is from the heavy damping of the Struts.
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Old Apr 3, 2004 | 07:56 PM
  #28  
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From: SoCal
Actually the harsh ride comes from the front bumpstops - which are designed into the spring curve. There is only about 1/4" of shock travel before you start using the bumpstops in an unmodified car.
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Old Apr 3, 2004 | 08:06 PM
  #29  
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so is everyone here thats arguing in agreement that just using springs is a bad way to go??
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Old Apr 3, 2004 | 08:12 PM
  #30  
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Right? I almost searched for my old physics and statics and dynamics book before I got done reading the thread.

Whats the moral of THIS story?

Originally posted by expl0d
so is everyone here thats arguing in agreement that just using springs is a bad way to go??
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