Camber bolts?!?!
Camber bolts?!?!
I took my car to NTB today to get an alignment done on it and they told me they would have to use some camber bolts to adjust it to what I wanted. I told them I wanted -1.8 in the front and -.8 in the back. I was under the impression we could do that much without having to change any parts on the car. Am I wrong?
Re: Camber bolts?!?!
Originally posted by chrisitr
...... I told them I wanted -1.8 in the front and -.8 in the back. I was under the impression we could do that much without having to change any parts on the car. Am I wrong? [/B]
...... I told them I wanted -1.8 in the front and -.8 in the back. I was under the impression we could do that much without having to change any parts on the car. Am I wrong? [/B]
you don't need anything to get around -1.8 neg. camber in front.
i guess the tech. guy is lazy
FYI....I've -1.8 in front and -0.7 in rear. no additional parts/tool needed
I believe that it is an eccentric bolt and they have to "flip" it. That is take it out, spin it 180 degrees and put it back in. The shop I took mine to didn't know this. They ripped me a new one; to the tune of about $120. They charged me for having them put it back up on the rack and fix it the way I first asked them to. Needless to say, I will be looking for a friendlier shop next time.
you can get just over 2 degrees in the front. i know, because i checked on mine to see how much can be set in the front when i aligned it.
to adjust the front that high, i use a second person, raise the front off the lift, (while still on the alignment rack), and loosen the bolts on the spindle to the strut. then, this is where the secong person comes in handy, shove the top of the wheel in, pulling out on the bottom helps, and then tighten down the bolts. once the car is let back down, you will get a more accurate reading. also, once the car is lowered, you can adjust the camber back in the positive direction until 1.8 or whatever your desired angle is. i used a port-a-power to adjust slowly, a prybar or large screw driver works too, just not as easily.
the rear uses eccentrics, you can also put well over 2 degrees in the back, i run 1.5 front and rear, i like the feeling of it. it really keeps the rear behind you sweet.
this is really fuzzy info with out pics. i hope it still helps though.
good luck!
to adjust the front that high, i use a second person, raise the front off the lift, (while still on the alignment rack), and loosen the bolts on the spindle to the strut. then, this is where the secong person comes in handy, shove the top of the wheel in, pulling out on the bottom helps, and then tighten down the bolts. once the car is let back down, you will get a more accurate reading. also, once the car is lowered, you can adjust the camber back in the positive direction until 1.8 or whatever your desired angle is. i used a port-a-power to adjust slowly, a prybar or large screw driver works too, just not as easily.
the rear uses eccentrics, you can also put well over 2 degrees in the back, i run 1.5 front and rear, i like the feeling of it. it really keeps the rear behind you sweet.
this is really fuzzy info with out pics. i hope it still helps though.
good luck!
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Originally posted by chrisitr
I found a post on here with a picture of the bolts to change and showed it to them. They still said that it can't be done
I found a post on here with a picture of the bolts to change and showed it to them. They still said that it can't be done
good luck!
Hmmm, my tech did the adjustment with the weight on it. We got -1.6 on one side, -1.8 on the other. Maybe next time I'll suggest him raising it off the rack to see if we can get more up front.
And yes, you can get tons of camber in the rear. I think my tech had it up over -2 at one point before we backed it off to match the front.
I'm doing the same thing and running the same camber front and rear. Really keeps the back end in line.
And yes, you can get tons of camber in the rear. I think my tech had it up over -2 at one point before we backed it off to match the front.
I'm doing the same thing and running the same camber front and rear. Really keeps the back end in line.
I tracked the car with all that rear camber a few weeks ago and the only time it would start to rotate is on braking/lifting situations (naturally). I'm sure as I gain more experience I'll want to dial some of that camber out to help induce oversteer and be able to rotate the car a little better. But since I'm still a novice on the road course I'd rather give it more grip in the corners for now... I'm a lot more likely to lose control cornering than driving in a straight line.
Here is the link to some more info on the camber bolts:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...ignment+camber
I flipped the bolts around today to the -2 position. It is pretty easy to do. The car definitely feels better, the front does not feel quite as 'heavy' accelerating through a turn, but I haven't had achance to give it a thorough test yet .....
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...ignment+camber
I flipped the bolts around today to the -2 position. It is pretty easy to do. The car definitely feels better, the front does not feel quite as 'heavy' accelerating through a turn, but I haven't had achance to give it a thorough test yet .....
Originally posted by Darkstar1
Here is the link to some more info on the camber bolts:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...ignment+camber
I flipped the bolts around today to the -2 position. It is pretty easy to do. The car definitely feels better, the front does not feel quite as 'heavy' accelerating through a turn, but I haven't had achance to give it a thorough test yet .....
Here is the link to some more info on the camber bolts:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...ignment+camber
I flipped the bolts around today to the -2 position. It is pretty easy to do. The car definitely feels better, the front does not feel quite as 'heavy' accelerating through a turn, but I haven't had achance to give it a thorough test yet .....
Have you reset your toe yet?
Adding negative camber will cause massive tire killing toe-in on the front.
Originally posted by chrisw
Have you reset your toe yet?
Adding negative camber will cause massive tire killing toe-in on the front.
Have you reset your toe yet?
Adding negative camber will cause massive tire killing toe-in on the front.
Originally posted by iodine23
I'm wondering if this is why I burned through my first two sets of tires so fast. Does toe-in wear the inside or the outside of the tires?
I'm wondering if this is why I burned through my first two sets of tires so fast. Does toe-in wear the inside or the outside of the tires?


