I'm going through the process of some major suspension upgrades and need some advice on how to adapt my setup.

I'm almost done installing a front tubular subframe and while it was out, I upgraded/replaced the lower control arm bushings with Whiteline bushings (including the caster offset from the KCA469 set). When I installed the LCAs, the front bolts do not align with the holes in the tubular subframe. I'm assuming that the subframe assumes a stock LCA bushing setup. See the pictures attached or at https://imgur.com/a/lupDLWJ. With the amount that they are off and the lack of compliancy in the Whiteline bushings (compared to stock), I don't think I can force/bend the bushings into fitting. What are my options here?


Bushings installed

Tubular subframe and LCA

Front bushing alignment

 

Dang, i hate these kind of fit issues (too impatient). Would hate to think that tubular frame is off in dimension?

Have you tried installing the front first? and then trying the rear connection?

I know what you mean, not a good idea to forcefully move that arm & install the bushing bolt!

 

You cant just install those offset bushings rotated in any which way. They have to be mounted with the hole at the same radius from the other inner mount or you end up with exactly what you're running into. To add to that, if you do have the bushing installed the right way, you also have to install the forward bolt first cause the rear offset twist the arms enough to twist the sleeve blocking the two ends of the hole.

Offset bushings do work in a way, but the binding they cause on that forward bushing, especially if you have a stiffer urethane bushing, is so pronounced any benefit from caster can is negated by the binding/stiction.

 

This is a classic case of a company just putting products out on the market without giving any disclaimers about things customers need to be aware of. Whiteline does this with a ton of their products and it's a large reason why I consider them a meh company.

Offset compliance bushings with a stiff poly front bushing is just not a good combo. You can make it work if you install the front horizontal bolt first and pull the rear hole aligned but you end up with a control arm that is always binding, like Dallas said.

Whiteline needs to tell customers the front poly bushing should only be used if you're not using an offset compliance bushing, and if you're using an offset compliance bushing you either need to stick with a soft rubber front bushing or preferably upgrade to a spherical front bushing since that allows for the arm to articulate without binding. But they don't do this because they don't offer spherical bushings and just want people to buy their products.

 

That front bushing will form correctly eventually. you can shave the ends also.
It does not look like WL offer front bushings. I probably got mine from EnergySuspension

 

The bushing will definitely not deform to move freely. And for an idea of how much stiction it can create, I had them both and it loosened my passenger bolt. Like fully, the bolt backed out and was only captured by the oil filter. This was after ~4 years of having the bushings. Up till I made the billet arms.

 

i have the same set up (energy suspension + WL combo). It was a messy installation for me since for some reason i decided to put squirted grease on the bolt also. i just recently removed the control arm and bolt was tight. that grease is quite resilient . now everything goes in easily

 

my bushing might be slimmer/flatter at the ends

 

Whiteline definitely sells a front bushing, I had a pair on my evo when I bought it. W0508

If you want your front suspension to not bind it'd be in your best interest to grab a set of Hardrace sphericals.

 

For Subarus?
100% sure i have Energy suspension's since I have the one for the rear of the front control arm but I didnt install it because its a head scratcher

 

 

That is 110% a product of a company that has to have a mass part catalogue to survive over design and quality. The fact that bushing exist is a shame, along with any bushing that replaces a factory spherical.

And I dont blame the company, they're doing what they need to to keep a profit. But it leaves the consumer on the hook for researching and the community to dissuade use. Such is the way with the race to the bottom. This is why I just dont have a lot of interest in designing/making sub $100 things unless it literally doesn't exist but needs to (the Ohlins Flag canister pin for example).

 

also some "lip" material holding your control arm to the car

 

Whoops, my mistake don't know why I pulled that number. Either way, it definitely exists. My old ones were yellow, seems like they only make black bushings nowadays.

https://www.maperformance.com/produc...o-8-9-10-w0593

But I agree with everything Dallas has said. Just because someone makes it doesn't mean it's necessarily an "upgrade" over stock components. Selling stuff under $200 (which is most of my products) is cut throat and the only way to really succeed is making stuff that either doesn't already exist or that significantly sets you apart from what the other guys are doing.

 

That's pretty expensive for an item that works for several other cars
https://www.whiteline.com.au/product...t_number=W0593
maybe that's why its not perfect for the OP

Regarding upgrades, well you can also get expensive but low quality stuff. There are people who buy just for name, prestige, bling in the garage, stickers, forum signatures
Personally, upgrades under $200 is for trial-and-error, just like coil springs for me lol.