Resurfacing Brake Rotors
May 6, 2010, 07:28 AM
#212
Same happened to me.. got them turned and they lasted a couple months. My advice is, if youre putting nice new pads on then get new rotors too. It'll save you a huge headache a couple of months from now. If you do get them turned just be prepared for them to go super fast.
Last edited by djrndm; May 6, 2010 at 07:30 AM.
May 21, 2010, 12:51 PM
#213
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I'm fortunate enough to be able to resurface my own at work, but I still only do it when there is actually a pulsation, or if the surface of the rotor has been compromised in some way (overheated or chemically). The only rotors that should be replaced rather than resurfaced are non-vented ones, which are tough to find on most cars anymore anyway. Even those don't need replacement just for new pads.
Jun 15, 2010, 08:49 PM
#214
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I have an EVO 8 and I love it but stock rotors don't really do it for me I kept the brembo name but got the slotted ones. I have found they don't warp as easy. before I was replaceing the rotors early due to warping, now i replace the pads and the rotors are still good. I will only replace the rotor if it is below min thickness
Jul 25, 2010, 05:26 AM
#215
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Since I am constantly reading posts where this question is asked I thought I would make a post devoted to it.
DO NOT resurface brake rotors just because you are replacing the pads. There is absolutely no reason. You shorten the rotor life, make it thinner so it does not hand the heat as well and spend money you should not be spending.
Almost every auto manufacturer has now come out and confimed that all of thier dealers should not be resurfacing rotors when brakes are done. It is only done to make money for the dealer.
Reasons for a rotor to be resurfaced.
1. Parallelism. The rotor is not true as it relates to the hub when it is on the vehicle. This is why they all recommend on car resurfacing.
2. Rotor scoring due to poor pad formulation, etc. Even then, GM's recommendation is to check the depth with a penny and if you can still see the top of Lincolns head then they are okay (believe it or not!)
If you would like to remove old pad transfer material from a rotor surface then you can use a 120 grit sandpaper to scuff up the surface. Excess pad transfer buildup can be removed without resurfacing. Many times it can be done by rebedding the pads. Roll-loc discs is also an option to clean up the surface of a rotor for pad transfer but even then I would go with a red (aluminum) disk, browns are just a bit to heavy.
I can honestly say that in the last 15 years I have never resurfaced a rotor on any of my 7 or so cars from all different manufacturers. Reason? Wheels should always be torqued with a torque wrench with no exceptions. I worked in a dealership for years and NO I didn't use one on customer cars because A) thatisn't the fast way when your flat rate B) If they start to pulsate I can just cut or replace them later (not my money but I make money doing it)
That is just the way it is. Don't think for a second that wheels get properly torqued at a dealership. Torque sticks only worked in a controlled situation in which the impact gun only puts out 250 ft lbs of torque. I've seen sticks broken by Impact guns because they are capable of a lot more then 250!
If you must have the wheels removed by a delaer or anyshop for that matter, request they use a torque wrench to reinstall the lugs and then when you get home, loosen all the lugs and retorque anyway.
DO NOT resurface brake rotors just because you are replacing the pads. There is absolutely no reason. You shorten the rotor life, make it thinner so it does not hand the heat as well and spend money you should not be spending.
Almost every auto manufacturer has now come out and confimed that all of thier dealers should not be resurfacing rotors when brakes are done. It is only done to make money for the dealer.
Reasons for a rotor to be resurfaced.
1. Parallelism. The rotor is not true as it relates to the hub when it is on the vehicle. This is why they all recommend on car resurfacing.
2. Rotor scoring due to poor pad formulation, etc. Even then, GM's recommendation is to check the depth with a penny and if you can still see the top of Lincolns head then they are okay (believe it or not!)
If you would like to remove old pad transfer material from a rotor surface then you can use a 120 grit sandpaper to scuff up the surface. Excess pad transfer buildup can be removed without resurfacing. Many times it can be done by rebedding the pads. Roll-loc discs is also an option to clean up the surface of a rotor for pad transfer but even then I would go with a red (aluminum) disk, browns are just a bit to heavy.
I can honestly say that in the last 15 years I have never resurfaced a rotor on any of my 7 or so cars from all different manufacturers. Reason? Wheels should always be torqued with a torque wrench with no exceptions. I worked in a dealership for years and NO I didn't use one on customer cars because A) thatisn't the fast way when your flat rate B) If they start to pulsate I can just cut or replace them later (not my money but I make money doing it)
That is just the way it is. Don't think for a second that wheels get properly torqued at a dealership. Torque sticks only worked in a controlled situation in which the impact gun only puts out 250 ft lbs of torque. I've seen sticks broken by Impact guns because they are capable of a lot more then 250!
If you must have the wheels removed by a delaer or anyshop for that matter, request they use a torque wrench to reinstall the lugs and then when you get home, loosen all the lugs and retorque anyway.
Jul 25, 2010, 05:27 AM
#216
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hello.I am from greece.I have an evo 8 and i am experiencing a problem with my brakes.Please help.At the speed of 140 km pressing lightly the brake pedal i have a tremble on the wheel.i was told that the stock rotors needed to be changed.I did this and installed new ones(Tarox)...the problem solved but not for ever..after 1000 km with street and very carefully driving the problem came up again..we checked the rotors and were warped again...took them for straightening and everything ok.we checked the calipers ok...after a while same again...we changed the rotors again placing the Carbonetic 2 piece scr rotors pro with carbonetic pads too..leaving the meckanik`s store at the same speed 140km i checked the break pedal and the tremble came up again!what is the problem?i was told that the rear rotors may cause the problem if they are warped..is this true.?what should i do?please respond...thank u
Jul 27, 2010, 05:04 AM
#217
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My EVO is up on jackstands outside without wheels due to a long project.
It rained while I was away and the rotors have a lot of rust on them now.
What do I need to do?
It rained while I was away and the rotors have a lot of rust on them now.
What do I need to do?
Sep 2, 2010, 06:35 PM
#219
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Sep 2, 2010, 07:16 PM
#220
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my first evo i drove hard,never had a prob with rotors whatsoever.the second evo i pampered and had low miles,rotors went fast...no logic to this,still perplexes me to this day,all was fixed though by replacing rotors with a set of the slotted brembos from tire rack,i also installed hp+ pads.this fixed problem for me.
side note* i did change and bleed fluid also
side note* i did change and bleed fluid also
Sep 13, 2010, 04:42 PM
#222
....Wheels should always be torqued with a torque wrench with no exceptions. I worked in a dealership for years and NO I didn't use one on customer cars because A) that isn't the fast way when your flat rate B) If they start to pulsate I can just cut or replace them later (not my money but I make money doing it)
That is just the way it is. Don't think for a second that wheels get properly torqued at a dealership. Torque sticks only worked in a controlled situation in which the impact gun only puts out 250 ft lbs of torque. I've seen sticks broken by Impact guns because they are capable of a lot more then 250!
If you must have the wheels removed by a delaer or anyshop for that matter, request they use a torque wrench to reinstall the lugs and then when you get home, loosen all the lugs and retorque anyway.
That is just the way it is. Don't think for a second that wheels get properly torqued at a dealership. Torque sticks only worked in a controlled situation in which the impact gun only puts out 250 ft lbs of torque. I've seen sticks broken by Impact guns because they are capable of a lot more then 250!
If you must have the wheels removed by a delaer or anyshop for that matter, request they use a torque wrench to reinstall the lugs and then when you get home, loosen all the lugs and retorque anyway.
Mar 28, 2011, 07:52 PM
#224
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I think I am in the right place for suspension questions. basically I have my car lowered via cut springs. The last owner did this. I am personally not a fan of it being done this way so I got some new stock springs for my MR. I looked at a how to for replacement. What I would like to know is am I going to need any new parts minus the springs themselves? Or is this a striaght forward bolt off bolt on process?
