Megan buy back on... turbo back; turbo back including turbo manifold and O2 housing
#512
I don't know what Megan may be able to provide in measurements... contact them here:
support@meganracing.com or
(626)581-0988
stating you are one of my customers, and are concerned with possible fitment issues prior to install based on what you are hearing. I can only surmise that something in the later build 05's changed as I have 05' customers with no issues at all.
Use all the Megan supplied hardware folks... even the "large donut gasket" (removing the OE one). Use the supplied bolts with OE torque specs. You DO NOT want to over tighten the downpipe to O2 flange bolts!
support@meganracing.com or
(626)581-0988
stating you are one of my customers, and are concerned with possible fitment issues prior to install based on what you are hearing. I can only surmise that something in the later build 05's changed as I have 05' customers with no issues at all.
Use all the Megan supplied hardware folks... even the "large donut gasket" (removing the OE one). Use the supplied bolts with OE torque specs. You DO NOT want to over tighten the downpipe to O2 flange bolts!
#513
Originally Posted by Zeus
I
Use all the Megan supplied hardware folks... even the "large donut gasket" (removing the OE one). Use the supplied bolts with OE torque specs. You DO NOT want to over tighten the downpipe to O2 flange bolts!
Use all the Megan supplied hardware folks... even the "large donut gasket" (removing the OE one). Use the supplied bolts with OE torque specs. You DO NOT want to over tighten the downpipe to O2 flange bolts!
#515
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I reused the OEM donut gasket because my car had only ~1500 miles on the odo., perfect fitment. Another thing, my car should be from a late 05 batch, I got it on September and IIRC the sticker on the door says it was build on July 2005.
phenaly, do not reuse the OEM spring-bolts, use the long bolts provided with the DP, you don't need instructions for this installation, just the right tools and plenty of clearence under the car.
phenaly, do not reuse the OEM spring-bolts, use the long bolts provided with the DP, you don't need instructions for this installation, just the right tools and plenty of clearence under the car.
#518
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Originally Posted by Zeus
Very interesting in deed... I'd like to see some of the other guys results from this last buy now.
#519
Fitment is pretty good in mine now, no hitting drive shaft or fuel tank. And this was without rotating the mid pipe and using the test pipe bung. Seems like the exhaust kinda settled.
Still never gonna clear the front strut-The megan donut looked well fatter than the stock, and when I used the stock it looked like the flanges on the dp and o2 housing touched. They are 3-5 mm apart now. Might be why my DP is sitting so low and hitting the strut.
Didnt someone else also have to use a spacer at the back axle like me?
Still never gonna clear the front strut-The megan donut looked well fatter than the stock, and when I used the stock it looked like the flanges on the dp and o2 housing touched. They are 3-5 mm apart now. Might be why my DP is sitting so low and hitting the strut.
Didnt someone else also have to use a spacer at the back axle like me?
#521
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Bigfish, there's a gap betweeen my DP and O2 too. The donut just won't let it close the gap.
Anyway, the install took a buddy and I about 6 hours! Of course fitment wasn't the problem, it was removing the original exhuast. First we couldn't get the O2 sensor off and had to head out and borrow a O2 sensor kit from Autozone. Eventually we got to the DP and of course as luck would have it one of the bolts sheared off insidse the O2 housing. Use an impact here guys, not a wrench. A wrench may put to much side forces on those cheap OEM bolts where an impact will keep it nice and straight.
Putting everything back together we realized the exhaust was missing 3 bolts for the hangers. Two for the DP-test pipe and one for where the muffler pipe meets the next pipe in line. (whatever it's called). This called for another run to the store to pick up more bolts.
Now that everything is back together, except for the undertray at the moment there a couple things that need to be adjusted. I'm keeping some vibration from the rear somewhere. I can't tell where it's coming from, but will probably be an easy adjustment.
Sound is great. Not that much louder than my original exhaust with muffler delete.
Is it normal to be able to hear the turbo so much more? Maybe it's because I still haven't put the undertray on, but it sure did seem louder when spooling last night.
Anyway, the install took a buddy and I about 6 hours! Of course fitment wasn't the problem, it was removing the original exhuast. First we couldn't get the O2 sensor off and had to head out and borrow a O2 sensor kit from Autozone. Eventually we got to the DP and of course as luck would have it one of the bolts sheared off insidse the O2 housing. Use an impact here guys, not a wrench. A wrench may put to much side forces on those cheap OEM bolts where an impact will keep it nice and straight.
Putting everything back together we realized the exhaust was missing 3 bolts for the hangers. Two for the DP-test pipe and one for where the muffler pipe meets the next pipe in line. (whatever it's called). This called for another run to the store to pick up more bolts.
Now that everything is back together, except for the undertray at the moment there a couple things that need to be adjusted. I'm keeping some vibration from the rear somewhere. I can't tell where it's coming from, but will probably be an easy adjustment.
Sound is great. Not that much louder than my original exhaust with muffler delete.
Is it normal to be able to hear the turbo so much more? Maybe it's because I still haven't put the undertray on, but it sure did seem louder when spooling last night.
#523
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OK I figured out the rattle I had. The muffler is touching the trailor hitch I have installed. So no big deal. I'll probably be the only person with that problem. Is the louder turbo sound normal?