Almost every stock turbo X with minimal mods makes about 320 on our dyno after a tune. Yesterday I tuned another one of my customers X's that he wanted to push and made 402 tq and 330 whp on pump. It seems no matter what, we are out of turbo at around 330 whp.

-Em

 

I'm looking for 380whp range out of this turbo and a tubular mani, with full bolt ons.

Do you think that is possible Emery?

 

Hard to say. I do not have much actual hands on experience with the turbo. We have a local guy that has one on his X and its been on our dyno but was tuned elsewhere. I think he put down somewhere around 300 tq and 320 whp. I'm sure it was not pushed at all though.

-Em

 

I'm not sure what this reply is for. Is this in agreement with my post or disagreement?

 

Well considering I'm almost at that power level with minimal bolt-ons, and you tuned me conservatively. I'd bet I could get around that....Thats what i"m hoping for, and have faith you can do it

 

I agree with you.

 

Phishy has always been my online handle, I never knew of this phish band you speak of lol, but to your brother for attending a "best show of my life".

 

I met some kid about a month ago who had a sliver evo x (hes not on this forum to my knowledge) whos all tight pants and long haired flat brimmed out.... any chance its the same guy? He told me about your shop and I am interested.

 

Very good shop. I know I'm taking my business back there. Very knowledgeable tuner.

 

Emery, I tuned Stephen's One Lap Evo X last spring to 360 whp with the FP Green and it just needed some more timing to get higher numbers but we were out of time. It was going to be super durable at that HP level on a road course though and timing conservative. The FP Green for the Evo X does hold more boost up top, maybe 24 psi @ 7k versus 20 psi that the stocker holds. As you have proven you can make crazy torque at lower RPM's but the stock turbo boost taper kills the party as RPM's climb past 5000.

Every Dyno is going to be different, but on the STM Mustang dyno a tune should get "approximately":

300whp Stock Turbo (Exhaust or FMIC)
320whp Stock Turbo (Exhaust/FMIC)
340whp Stock Turbo (Exhaust/FMIC/Cams/Tubular Exhaust Manifold) - boost taper is limiter
360whp FP Green (Exhaust/FMIC)
380whp FP Green (Exhaust/FMIC + Cams or Tubular Exhaust Manifold)
400whp FP Green (Exhaust/FMIC/Cams/Tubular Exhaust Manifold)

So in general the FP Green will be a good 40whp ahead since it holds more boost up top. It will also tend to get more out of cams and/or tubular exhaust manifolds from what I've seen as well where that gap opens up to 60whp + over the stocker.

 

I'd take 380whp with the FP Green/mani, and full bolt ons. I'm pretty sure his dyno is a tad on the lower reading side anyways. Atleast 10-12% compared to dynojets, i'd imagine.

 

HiBoost thanks for the info and on the way to work today I realized in my question I got two different people and different Xs confused that go to your shop. What BoV would you recommend? I'm starting to get antsy to make more whp.

 

HAHA, that didn't take long, awesome!

 

Indeed, STM's Dyno reads a good 30% below crank HP and most Dynojets are around 20% ish. For some other comparisons my old GT30 made around 400 whp on the STM Mustang with manifold but no cams, and the GTX30 made 450 whp on a road course tune. Most MR's tend to make 10-20 whp less than the GSR counterparts, but what they lose in straightline speed, they regain most of that with shifting efficiency. When my friend with an FP Green was drag racing me at the shootout he said that he pulled slightly on me but every time he shifted he fell behind again.

 

BOV's are tricky, I had good luck with the Works BOV as it was OEM in most ways but held a few more PSI before leaking. I ended up selling it to one of my sponsors with the White MR "halfway crushed" so it held a good 32 psi before leaking badly. You can crush the stock and Works BOV's a few mm where the distance from the reference port to the body of the BOV is reduced to about half. If you crush it all the way down it will indeed hold more boost but the BOV will get very fluttery at part throttle and lower RPM's making that choo choo choo sound due to being too stiff.

I also tried the Tial QR recirculating model and on paper it looked like a great setup. Probably works like a champ and doesn't leak at all for WOT driving such as a drag race.

Unfortunately for my GTX30 turbo with oversized compressor wheel compared to the exhaust side it cause some crazy part throttle issues between 15 and 20 psi where the spring was too stiff. After dropping down from the 11 psi to the 8 psi spring it was livable but once you hit that 15-20 psi range on a road course trying to get part throttle in sweeping corners, the car tended to rocket past that area to full boost or buck the car if you tried to modulate the throttle. Dialing back the MIVEC helped somewhat but I really didn't want to reduce spool just because the BOV was acting wierd.

If you do some searching you should get a good amount of info on the subject. I may test out that Synapse valve, while I read both good and bad reviews on it, some people might not be hooking it up correctly.