Originally Posted by Hiboost

BOV's are tricky, I had good luck with the Works BOV as it was OEM in most ways but held a few more PSI before leaking. I ended up selling it to one of my sponsors with the White MR "halfway crushed" so it held a good 32 psi before leaking badly. You can crush the stock and Works BOV's a few mm where the distance from the reference port to the body of the BOV is reduced to about half. If you crush it all the way down it will indeed hold more boost but the BOV will get very fluttery at part throttle and lower RPM's making that choo choo choo sound due to being too stiff.

I also tried the Tial QR recirculating model and on paper it looked like a great setup. Probably works like a champ and doesn't leak at all for WOT driving such as a drag race.

Unfortunately for my GTX30 turbo with oversized compressor wheel compared to the exhaust side it cause some crazy part throttle issues between 15 and 20 psi where the spring was too stiff. After dropping down from the 11 psi to the 8 psi spring it was livable but once you hit that 15-20 psi range on a road course trying to get part throttle in sweeping corners, the car tended to rocket past that area to full boost or buck the car if you tried to modulate the throttle. Dialing back the MIVEC helped somewhat but I really didn't want to reduce spool just because the BOV was acting wierd.

If you do some searching you should get a good amount of info on the subject. I may test out that Synapse valve, while I read both good and bad reviews on it, some people might not be hooking it up correctly.