I recently had the Mil-Spec ported throttle body installed on my 2010 Evo MR. I just got the tune updated tonight at Cobb. The final results? I gained 14 hp and 5 tq on my pump gas tune.

So final number on pump gas is 414 hp and 375 tq.

I would say for $ 300 bucks this was a great mod for the real wheel hp gained.

Thanks Aby at Mil-Spec

Added throttle body and manifold/turbo/downpipe ceramic coatings:

Dyno sheet?

Holy crap! Please share the dyno charts when you can!

That is awesome !!

Agreed, give us full overlays when you have them.

I am guessing the dyno room was a lot cooler this time around but still good gains.

Was the tune changed significantly before and after? Sometimes it's tricky to seperate timing, boost and AFR changes from just the bolt on swap itself because the part might allow you to get more aggressive with the tune.

I'm going to consider the Mil-spec TB as an upgrade as well, the Boomba 3" was likely overkill for my setup before on a GTX30 turbo.

^ indeed.

but if your tune the car to its max potential, and then change a part and that potential changes then really the part should be awards the cred's!

I agree with this theory! If a car is tuned to its full potential and then you add a part which allows you to advance the timing further and run an extra pound of boost, than that part was directly responsible for those gains as it directly raised that cars potential.

No, The car was full tuned, PRO Tuned by Calvin, before with 26.22 PSI. They added the TB and he re tuned it make a few small tweaks. Boost went down to 26.01 and hp went up.

Understand... the TB was the last item I got around to doing. I have upgraded the Intake MANI and had a hard pipe kit so the factory TB was a real "bottleneck" opening that up made a nice difference.

Nice gains, Tom! Let me know when you get a proper dyno chart posted (or at least a picture of your full chart) and I'll move this thread to the dyno results section.

I hate when people install a part and claimed to get all this extra horsepower when really it was the tune (or other conditions) that made the extra power.

Its like me saying "Hey, i installed a new exhaust bearing and change my turn signal fluid and i gained 100 whp" but really it was my retune and raising my boost from 24 to 28 psi.

To prove exactly how much of a power increase a part gives you, you need to first off not touch the tune. Then you need to to dyno the car on the same day at pretty much the same time with the stock part on then dyno it again with the new part. Try to keep all variables (weather conditions, strap tensions, etc...) the same.

Also, boost pressure (psi) does not tell you exactly how much air is going into your cylinders. You have to have a restriction to have boost pressure. So say you installed a ported head (with different valves, springs, etc) and when you dyno'd it your boost pressure dropped alil compared to when you had the stock head installed. This does not mean you have less air going into your motor, it means your head is more free flowing and less restrictive.

Sorry to rage and rant, my morning is not going so well. This is just my 2 cents.

^I disagree completely, to really know how much power a part is worth you need to retune for it. Using your logic, my MAP o2 elim downpipe caused me a loss in power since it caused my car to go so rich and required a retune to get the car back up to snuff. Simply slapping on a part tells nothing, you need to optimize your car's tune to really see it's true benefits.

I'll agree with that too.

I guess the best way to stay consistant is to tune to a certain standard with say 11.5 AFR, 26 psi, and timing set where it still gave a HP bump from the last increase and zero knock (not necessarily just 1* below where knock sets in).

Then swap the part and try to keep dyno and weather variables to a minimum and retune it with the same standards as before. If the car now will take more boost and/or timing following the same procedures, I consider any gains made related to the part swap in question. Supporting data such as increases in load, airflow, or MAF readings would also indicate more airflow is being pushed through the engine.

Great to hear, that totally makes sense then. Looks like with my upgraded piping and intake manifold it should all work together nicely as well, especially once I upgrade to a larger turbo.

Thats the most silly, thing I have heard. So let me make sure I got you correct?

1. Tune the car.
2. Dyno the car.
3. Install new parts and DONT retune to adjust for the new parts?

But FYI. I have done over $2000 in dyno time at Cobb making sure everytime I do something I measure each part or a few parts performance at a time.

Also clearly you didnt read all the posts in this thread. I was at the SAME boost. I didnt jack the boost, or run a differnt fuel, but I was standing on one leg and holding my junk.. thats what did it Im sure.

In all fairness I had done a full hard pipe kit, AMS intercooler, Blitz intake manifold, MAP exhaust manifold, AMS downpipe, So all these parts were very very free flowing; the factory TB was my serious restriction. It really made all the other parts come even more alive.

After all an engine is just a big airbox. More in, more out, more power