12 months ago I decided to replace the oem amp becase it's junk.. I was told the radio communicated by a bus, and it only outputed front low level etc. So I took it like a grain of salt. And tried anyways. Im still asked till this day the same questions over and over again.

First of all you will notice you cant crank the radio up. the amp cuts the output on its own to protect the speakers. At first i thought it was in the radio but its not its in the amp. who ever thought of this should be shot and dragged all over the us..



When the radio notices the amp is not into the loop it will revert to just a 4 channel output with 20w rms front and rear output. when i figured this out I was happy.. and that's when i realized that this could be done..


Installing the 4 channel high to low. On the car side there are 4 wires missing.. So you have to do it on the radio side. those are the rear channels.

28 Grey/Red Front Left +
38 Yellow/Blue Front Left -

27 Yellow/Grey Rear Left +
37 White/Blue Rear Left -

26 Yellow/Green Front Right +
36 Red/Blue Front Right -

25 White/Green Rear Right +
35 Grey/Blue Rear Right -

You will have front, rear, left, right.. All the controls will still work sterring wheel, Nav voice, and bt voice..

 

by doing this, do you have sub control?

 

He will if he gets an EQ with a Subwoofer output.

 

Thanks for info!

I plan on replacing my stock amp and adding some sort of dash mount volume control becuase I hate how the nav volume doesn't seen to scale with master volume. I asked if this could be fixed in another thread, but seeing how you still have nav guidance when you use those F/R outputs it pretty much helps answers one of my questions. I'm glad the those guidance prompts are actually played through the same audio wires and not some other wire going to the amp.

I'm assuming the head unit defaults to this configuration for models that have the navi option but not the fosgate system.

 

I never asked you any questions. But I read your write up a while back and thought that it was spot on. Many Thanks!! I am just hunting for a power house 5 channel though. You still like your JL?

 

I'm using rockford amps and a kicker sub.. But i have been bitten by the bug again.. I just ordered 80 sq feet of rammat and will be doing the whole car... then I will be getting 3 12 inch IDQ in the trunk.. I will update this tread. as the changes happen..

 

Did you get your new gear in yet? I'd like to see the pictures of the install process if you took any. Thanks

 

Are you using an aftermarket head unit or stock? Id like to keep my stock head unit with a definit change in amps.

 

Thanks to SparcoMX for this diagram, I was able to change out the amp in my car last weekend, what a job!

1. Remove all rear seating and driver seat
2. Find some 2 channel crossovers, not easy to do but I called around to some local stereo shops and one had some diamond branded ones with a RF output (rear-fill.)
3. Run power cable from battery to under drivers seat
4. Cut the AC/Heat vent to allow room for bigger amplifier
5. Remove head unit to splice in speaker cables (I re-ran all 4 channels) and 1 ACC wire for the amp remote connection (turn on)
6. I removed the stock sub to get to the actual wires, since the colors change! It's a dual 1.1ohm DVC subwoofer, I wired it in series and that gave me about 2.5ohms at the amplifier. I did this by jumpering two wires under the seat (effectively the same as doing it at the sub but this is easier to reverse.)
7. I used a 4 channel amp, turned off the filters for the front channels and ran that into the crossovers. Hooked up the tweeters, mids and rear door speakers to the Rear Fill output.
8. Connected sub in bridged mode to amplifier and set it to LPF output cutting off around 100hz.

All in all it sounds much better and no volume limiting issues. Eventually I'll have to replace the stock speakers as they can't handle the power to well, they bottom out and distort heavilly. The doors rattle so bad now!

My body is still sore from all of the work done...

 

Nice, this is good info. I was thinking I was going to have to deal with two channels of audio. I'm just about to start the process of getting all the stuff I need to redo the stereo in the car.

 

Hey narkotic, I just want to be sure I understand your setup

Head Unit 4ch high level output 4ch amp.
Front output from 4ch amp to an (active or passive?) crossover with Front (tweeter, mid) and Rear outputs feeding your front/rear speakers.
Rear output from 4ch amp to subwoofer in bridged mode with low pass filter.

So with this setup, can you effective fade front/rear from the head unit as a bass control? As in, fading to the front will decrease your subwoofer? If this was your intention, it's quite brilliant method to use just a 4ch amp to still control F/R/SW output levels... That is, if your crossover has fading abilitiy for the rear fill. What is the model# of the Diamond xover you used?

Thanks for the added info!

 

My amplifier is some cheapie sony xplode series with high level capability built in, no need for a LOC.

Used passive crossovers, sorry forget the model, m54.1x maybe?

Like mentioned above, once the headunit is reset and the amp is disconnected, it goes back to regular front / rear output mode with mid/high/bass adjustments. The sound fields, DSP stuff and "punch" level goes away. You get a full fader and balance adjustment.

 

anyone know what the SSS amp puts out RMS to each speaker?

 

I hope you plan on taping over those solder connections. I usually use shrink tube on soldered connections.

 

It looks like he did use some insulation on the third picture. I think he wanted to show how the Mitsubishi colors mach up to the standard audio colors in those first two pics.