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Can one or more of you folks confirm whether Oracle Lighting 1156 (20 light) LED lamps are plug and play or not?
I saw in some other theads on this site that these were confirmed to be good lights, but now reading about LEDs in general melting the socket, or needing resistors, blowing fuses, etc. So sort of wondering what I am getting into. I don't want to replace the back of my light housing because of melted plastic. I have no multimeter to test the draw, and not sure how to do it, if I had the meter.
I was having problems with my led drl. One would only work when it was out of the housing and I was testing it. Found out the blue wire was damaged. I had to pull it apart and re strip the wire
Jesus Guys!
A few years old...but still.
2012 GSR. Local cops don't like me driving with 1 DRL burning. Silverstars only last a little while.
Just got Sylvania ZEVO's. Passenger side worked right away. Drivers...not so good.
Put an old bulb in the socket. It worked.
Checked the new LED with 12 volts. +12 on the tip, - on the barrel. It worked.
Get the multimeter, DRL's on. Meter set to DC volts. + probe on the center pin of the socket, - probe on the outer contact. Meter shows -13.8 volts. Easy stuff. The polarity of the wiring is reversed.
Pull the damn DRL harness, light socket, weather cap out of the car.
Inside of the connector, pull the blue retainer out. Unclip the blue and black wire.
Swap them in the connector. Put it back together. Reconnect the harness to the car.
LED works. Center of the LED HAS to get +12 volts DC.
Deal?
Incandescent lamps have NO polarity. 1156 bulbs, 194, etc., DO NOT care if they get + or - on either connector. LED's DO.
Deal? Use your multimeter. Learn how to use one.