Chinese Head Unit
Chinese Head Unit
Has anyone considered installing these? I have ordered this one:
http://www.autodvdgps.com/8-inch-dig...er-p-1596.html
Had one similar in my Mazda that worked out well.
http://www.autodvdgps.com/8-inch-dig...er-p-1596.html
Had one similar in my Mazda that worked out well.
Hrmm, well the one I had on the mazda lasted over a year before I sold the car and was used to play video on a 4 hour trip, so hopefully I wasn't just lucky.
Either case, I will keep a running update on the install, features, and quality of this unit here, in case anyone cares.
Either case, I will keep a running update on the install, features, and quality of this unit here, in case anyone cares.
Yeah, already changing my mind. I hooked it up, took pictures of the easy install, but the features are garbage. I agree with the sentiment of those above... HOWEVER, I will stand behind my statement regarding the unit for the Mazda. It was great and all features worked REALLY well. Too bad they vary so much in software/functionality.
Anyway, reasons for my switching gears (for others benefit):
-Steering wheel forward and back buttons did not work to change between stations for radio or for bluetooth, thus while in GPS mode I could not change songs without using my phone
-GPS did not work out of the box, and I could likely mess with the sys.txt file to get it working, but didn't want to bother getting the GPS antenna to work
-EQ (if you can call it that) is gross. It only uses 2-channels even though it comes with the CAN-BUS to speak to the RF amp so when you move sound to the rear, you lose all sound, but with it in the front you have all stock speakers.
-The sound is actually MUCH worse on the stock RF amp if that is even possible. This was not the case with the Mazda, it made the Bose system sound WAY better than stock. I was intending to go to a 4-channel amp, but when it sounds this bad, no point.
Going with Scosche plastic piece, Pioneer X4500, and steering wheel controls instead with standard non-RF wiring harness as I wont need the MITO-02 without the stock amp.
Lesson? Gotta learn the hard way sometimes.
Anyway, reasons for my switching gears (for others benefit):
-Steering wheel forward and back buttons did not work to change between stations for radio or for bluetooth, thus while in GPS mode I could not change songs without using my phone
-GPS did not work out of the box, and I could likely mess with the sys.txt file to get it working, but didn't want to bother getting the GPS antenna to work
-EQ (if you can call it that) is gross. It only uses 2-channels even though it comes with the CAN-BUS to speak to the RF amp so when you move sound to the rear, you lose all sound, but with it in the front you have all stock speakers.
-The sound is actually MUCH worse on the stock RF amp if that is even possible. This was not the case with the Mazda, it made the Bose system sound WAY better than stock. I was intending to go to a 4-channel amp, but when it sounds this bad, no point.
Going with Scosche plastic piece, Pioneer X4500, and steering wheel controls instead with standard non-RF wiring harness as I wont need the MITO-02 without the stock amp.
Lesson? Gotta learn the hard way sometimes.
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Yeah, already changing my mind. I hooked it up, took pictures of the easy install, but the features are garbage. I agree with the sentiment of those above... HOWEVER, I will stand behind my statement regarding the unit for the Mazda. It was great and all features worked REALLY well. Too bad they vary so much in software/functionality.
Anyway, reasons for my switching gears (for others benefit):
-Steering wheel forward and back buttons did not work to change between stations for radio or for bluetooth, thus while in GPS mode I could not change songs without using my phone
-GPS did not work out of the box, and I could likely mess with the sys.txt file to get it working, but didn't want to bother getting the GPS antenna to work
-EQ (if you can call it that) is gross. It only uses 2-channels even though it comes with the CAN-BUS to speak to the RF amp so when you move sound to the rear, you lose all sound, but with it in the front you have all stock speakers.
-The sound is actually MUCH worse on the stock RF amp if that is even possible. This was not the case with the Mazda, it made the Bose system sound WAY better than stock. I was intending to go to a 4-channel amp, but when it sounds this bad, no point.
Going with Scosche plastic piece, Pioneer X4500, and steering wheel controls instead with standard non-RF wiring harness as I wont need the MITO-02 without the stock amp.
Lesson? Gotta learn the hard way sometimes.
Anyway, reasons for my switching gears (for others benefit):
-Steering wheel forward and back buttons did not work to change between stations for radio or for bluetooth, thus while in GPS mode I could not change songs without using my phone
-GPS did not work out of the box, and I could likely mess with the sys.txt file to get it working, but didn't want to bother getting the GPS antenna to work
-EQ (if you can call it that) is gross. It only uses 2-channels even though it comes with the CAN-BUS to speak to the RF amp so when you move sound to the rear, you lose all sound, but with it in the front you have all stock speakers.
-The sound is actually MUCH worse on the stock RF amp if that is even possible. This was not the case with the Mazda, it made the Bose system sound WAY better than stock. I was intending to go to a 4-channel amp, but when it sounds this bad, no point.
Going with Scosche plastic piece, Pioneer X4500, and steering wheel controls instead with standard non-RF wiring harness as I wont need the MITO-02 without the stock amp.
Lesson? Gotta learn the hard way sometimes.
lesson #2: Pioneer GPS units suck get Kenwood or Jensen
lesson #3: just buy a cheap 4 channel amp and speakers for the doors. Or at least speakers, since you cannot use the factory ones
ProTip: all the door speaker wires meet under your seat (rhymes, has to be true)
cut them all out when you take out the factory amp (then sell it on forums for $75 bucks)
ProTip #2: take a AA battery. start touching wires to each side simultaneously. When you hear a buzz from a speaker, you have found which speaker that power and ground wire goes to. Repeat as necessary.
Thanks! I appreciate it. I already HAVE a 4- chanel amp and alipe type R speakers for the doors.
The chinese head unit is still sending power through the amp, so the amp should still have SOME control but it sounds worse
Don't be tempted by the factory look like I was. I had to try, i decided any money lost was worth trying to see if it was as good as the other one I had, it just wasn't.
If this one worked alright and eventually they came out with an Android OS one, I would have switched and it would likely have worked, but alas... oh well.
The chinese head unit is still sending power through the amp, so the amp should still have SOME control but it sounds worse
Don't be tempted by the factory look like I was. I had to try, i decided any money lost was worth trying to see if it was as good as the other one I had, it just wasn't.If this one worked alright and eventually they came out with an Android OS one, I would have switched and it would likely have worked, but alas... oh well.
Great advice, I already have a 'cheap' 4-channel, and new speakers. I am going to use new twisted speaker wire to 'do it right' and avoid any problems in shorting or sound interference.
I suppose I should try to take out the factory wires since itll just be dead weight. I noticed my car has a lot of rattle with stock speakers and amp, will that change with a new system or does plastic need to be dynamatted?
I suppose I should try to take out the factory wires since itll just be dead weight. I noticed my car has a lot of rattle with stock speakers and amp, will that change with a new system or does plastic need to be dynamatted?
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