new amp/speakers/sub non rf system
new amp/speakers/sub non rf system
Want to upgrade amp/speakers/small self contained sub{old infinity basslink} in 2013 MR and keep stock head unit but have questions. 1] If I install line converters what about the different sound fields with the stock head unit? 2] if there is a pigtail in the trunk for a RF sub can someone identify what wires are what?
Want to upgrade amp/speakers/small self contained sub{old infinity basslink} in 2013 MR and keep stock head unit but have questions. 1] If I install line converters what about the different sound fields with the stock head unit? 2] if there is a pigtail in the trunk for a RF sub can someone identify what wires are what?
Same here, I want to add Basslink to standard stereo unit.
Maybe I can tab the rear speaker wire for it?
But, rear speakers are w/i rear doors and I dont want to crack any doors open.
Maybe trace the speaker wire behind the frame plastic panels...
Where the stock amp located? Under the seats?
Maybe I can tab the rear speaker wire for it?
But, rear speakers are w/i rear doors and I dont want to crack any doors open.
Maybe trace the speaker wire behind the frame plastic panels...
Where the stock amp located? Under the seats?
Its not a rockford fosgate system amp is internal to head unit
Same here, I want to add Basslink to standard stereo unit.
Maybe I can tab the rear speaker wire for it?
But, rear speakers are w/i rear doors and I dont want to crack any doors open.
Maybe trace the speaker wire behind the frame plastic panels...
Where the stock amp located? Under the seats?
Maybe I can tab the rear speaker wire for it?
But, rear speakers are w/i rear doors and I dont want to crack any doors open.
Maybe trace the speaker wire behind the frame plastic panels...
Where the stock amp located? Under the seats?
Last edited by spdfour; Jun 11, 2014 at 08:27 PM.
If you want to upgrade and keep factory unit (why?) without RF system use this - Audiocontrol LC2i. The audiocontrol pieces are much better than using a passive LOC, without all the complication of a JL Audio Cleensweep or RF 360. The issue that you will run into using passive LOCs is bass attenuation. As you turn up the volume, the factory stereo will adjust bass levels to keep factory speakers in a safe operating range. Great for not blowing factory speakers, not so good for adding subs.
Last edited by jakeleclair2000; Jun 10, 2014 at 03:12 PM. Reason: learned to read
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14 stock touch screen w/ bluetooth is nice in functions so I want to keep it but lacks in power and bass. Since I have the basslink I should try to add it then see ...
and, I really dont want to crack open the door panels just now... maybe few years later...
and, I really dont want to crack open the door panels just now... maybe few years later...
If you want to upgrade and keep factory unit (why?) without RF system use this - Audiocontrol LC2i. The audiocontrol pieces are much better than using a passive LOC, without all the complication of a JL Audio Cleensweep or RF 360. The issue that you will run into using passive LOCs is bass attenuation. As you turn up the volume, the factory stereo will adjust bass levels to keep factory speakers in a safe operating range. Great for not blowing factory speakers, not so good for adding subs.
If you want to upgrade and keep factory unit (why?) without RF system use this - Audiocontrol LC2i. The audiocontrol pieces are much better than using a passive LOC, without all the complication of a JL Audio Cleensweep or RF 360. The issue that you will run into using passive LOCs is bass attenuation. As you turn up the volume, the factory stereo will adjust bass levels to keep factory speakers in a safe operating range. Great for not blowing factory speakers, not so good for adding subs.
LOC = Line Output Converter
Passive (non-powered) speaker level to rca converters WILL work, but the signal output wont be as strong or clear as a active (powered) converter. There is also the issue of bass attenuation, witch i feel is the main reason to use an active loc vs. passive.
also, you would be able to retain SWC and bluetooth with aftermarket unit (with appropriate modules of course)
Passive (non-powered) speaker level to rca converters WILL work, but the signal output wont be as strong or clear as a active (powered) converter. There is also the issue of bass attenuation, witch i feel is the main reason to use an active loc vs. passive.
also, you would be able to retain SWC and bluetooth with aftermarket unit (with appropriate modules of course)
they are sometimes called hi/lo converters too
didn't know the 2014 has touch screen and all that!! I have the 2013 poverty model :/
if it's internal amplified, then yes, your stock sound fields would remain. Just use a good hi/low converter and it should be fine.
didn't know the 2014 has touch screen and all that!! I have the 2013 poverty model :/
if it's internal amplified, then yes, your stock sound fields would remain. Just use a good hi/low converter and it should be fine.
Poverty model in a lancer evo is an oxymoron isnt it? jake thanks for the answers/advice. Decided on antipoverty stereo JVC kwv 50 bt HU pioneer tsd1720c/tsd 1702r speakers my old JBL Px 300.4 amp and old Infinity basslin subwoofer the JVC HU will retain bluetooth and steering wheel functions with converter


