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stock alternator mini battery and 1100 watt RMS system

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Old Feb 11, 2015 | 11:18 AM
  #1  
ddlopresti's Avatar
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stock alternator mini battery and 1100 watt RMS system

So i'm debating putting in a pretty solid SQ system and I'm wondering what type of electrical upgrades are necessary if any to the stock 130amp alternator running a Braille lithium Gu1R battery. I'm putting down 500WHP on my e85 tune running a wally 450, ID 1300s and aftermarket FPR.

I'm considering the following system.

1) Front speakers will be Voce 6.5 inch component speakers (AVK6)
2) rears will be the smaller matching voce speakers
3) Kenwood 8901 head unit
4) JL 12W6V3 sub in trunk

Amps

1) single channel JL 600watt XDv2 amp for sub
2) 6 channel 600 watt JL XDv2 series amp for cabin speakers (bridging two for the fronts)

So my main concern is under WOT if i have the radio at a decent volume whether my injectors and pump will get the voltage necessary to function properly. Anyone out there with a comparable setup that has any feedback/experience would be super helpful! Thanks!

Last edited by ddlopresti; Feb 11, 2015 at 01:35 PM.
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Old Feb 14, 2015 | 02:26 PM
  #2  
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Not sure if mines all that close, but I am running a OEM battery and standard alternator, not running as many mods as you though:

- AEM Intake
- UICP
- TBE system

I haven't had a dyno run on it, as it was street tuned rather than on a dyno.

on the Sound system I am running the following:
Head deck Pioneer DEH-8450BT

Fronts:
- Rockford Fostgate T3 components
Rears:
- Lanzar OPTI6PM Opti 6in Mids only
Sub:
JL Audio 12W3 (Because I had it lying around)

Amp:
Front and Rear:
Massive Audio DBX4-4
- Running fronts: 85Hz + no high cut into the Rockfords
- Running Rears: 65Hz + to 6000Hz
Sub:
Rockford Fosgate P500.1

I have been running these for a while now and the sound is amazing in the car, I am looking to up the rear Sub as I think is needs a bit more punch down low. Just be aware if you do go for something like this, you need to modify the door a lot to get the Lanzars into the rears, also the T3's took an extra deep bracket to accommodate them.

I haven't had any voltage issues so far with this set up and I am looking to alter this a bit in the future by grabbing another DBX4-4 and running the T3's in a Bi-amp configuration to the crossovers then running the second amp to the Lanzars and bridging the rears on that to the sub. In this configuration the DBX4-4's would be located under the drivers and passengers and only the sub in the boot. (the current DBX4-4 is located under the front passengers seat)

Not sure if this helps, but that's what I have and no issues so far.
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Old Feb 14, 2015 | 08:19 PM
  #3  
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get a capacitor
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Old Feb 16, 2015 | 09:09 PM
  #4  
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Thx for the replies. I decided to try it with two capacitors first before upgrading the alternator.
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Old Feb 23, 2015 | 01:17 PM
  #5  
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b3n
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From: Omaha, NE
Not sure about the JL amps, but my Alpine PDX's offer low voltage/battery protection (basically cuts power to speakers until the voltage goes back to normal) to avoid situations like that. My mono amp is 1200w by itself and I've seen this function in action. Works as advertised.
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