I need help guys, I was installing upper intercooler pipe on my evo x and also I was going to remove the front bumper because I was waiting for a new intercooler and new horns, so with the UICP removed I forgot that I needed to turn the tires for clearance removing clips and screws, so I turn the car on and started all normal I moved the tires and then the car died ( I immediately thought is because the UICP is removed not a big deal )
I installed the news horns and upper pipe yesterday and I got my intercooler delivered today morning and started the installation all good ( except for lower intercooler coupler a little loose) but once I tightened everything all was good and double, triple check clamps then I processed to turn the car on, it started but aftee 10 seconds died and tried over and over no luck. I started looking for a blown fuse all good inside the engine box, all good inside the fuse box by OBII port, I have a dw300 fuel pump usually when the car is in on position you can hear it but I wasn’t hearing anything so I started changing relays on the engine fuse box ( fallowing some forums steps ) no luck, then I went to the battery I thought maybe is my battery dead, jump cables with another car no luck so I noticed that I have hardwired fuel pump ( I wasn’t familiar with that I got the car mid last year and I did tune it when I got it but I never asked or was told about the hardwire fuel pump ) btw dw fuel pump wire kit *
So the fuse that has the positive wire was completely blown almost burnt out, the external relay ( this kit comes with) a 40 amp relay small weird, I replaced both brand new no luck.
FYI : cranks but not strong
I can’t hear the fuel pump priming with the key in on position
I still have the stock fuel pump maybe I can switch it and see if the fuel pump itself is blown?
Ground problem?
Did I mess something else when I started car without the UICP?
Any help is much appreciated
Ronald

 

The ECU doesn't send power to the fuel pump until CRANKING, not when in ON position. So you need to take a volt meter and have a buddy crank the car while you check to see if power is going TO the relay from the ECU. If it is, then next would be to check the power on the high side of the relay. The blown fuse is a bad sign. Those blow for a reason, so you might have a bigger problem here.

 

Thanks, Jaraxle for your comment.
I did a quick test before the big storm of snow we got in NY, the Relay that is installed near the battery (relay from the hardwired kit) clicks when the key is in on position, I haven't test with the voltmeter anything but fuses and relays from the engine bay, and one fuse located inside the cabin that belongs to the fuel pump, I was doing some research and must be another relay for the fuel pump (fuel pump relay2) located inside the driver's fuse box, I haven't seen any, I'll attach pictures of the fuel pump wiring from the manual and a picture of my fuse box inside the cabin, anyways I'll do the test you are telling me with the voltmeter, I saw another post that the issue was that the fuel pump was not getting enough voltage at cranking due to a bad ground. Quick question: if the fuel pump doesn't get any power from the ECU until Cranking, but does it get power for priming only (2-3 sec) and then cut off the power? I have seen videos of people installing a new pump and key in on position they are able to hear the priming, but I don't know...
thanks
Ron

 

I could be mistaken, but I believe the ECU does not PRIME the pump until turned to START. On doesn't send power to the pump, unlike other cars. Now, I don't know your setup. Perhaps something was tapped into with that relay to behave differently. Long story short, your going to have to do some volt-meter hunting to find out where things have gone wrong. The blown fuses again, mean something is wrong. They blow to PROTECT the components and they fail open for a reason.

 

the way the OEM circuit works is there are two modes, high speed and low speed. It uses several relays and a resistor pack to switch between these modes. During cranking it goes high speed mode. If you hear a pump running before cranking it has been hardwired, likely to full power, with the ignition circuit as a trigger.

 

ok Guys this is what I have tested so far. Engine compression test ( I was scared of timing chain problems)I ran the test under these circumstances: 25 degrees outside, engine cold ( haven't started the car and let it run for almost a month )
I had the TB closed when doing the compression test I had these results: 115-120 all 4 cylinders ( maybe low compression ...yes but there are factors that make me think this is not the real problem. spark test. I do have spark.
This time all check all fuses inside the cabin and engine, all good.
Biggiesacks: I do have the DW300c fuel pump installed with a hardwire kit that used a 25 amp fuse and a 40 A relay I don't know if this setup makes the fuel pump primes for 2 or 3 secs and then shut off waits from cranks.
Jaraxle: I did some voltmeter work today and find out that my fuel pump is getting 10.80 V when cranking and no power at all with the key in on position (maybe you right about your statement but many posts or youtube videos said that the fuel pump actually primes 2 or 3 sec and then goes off ....but seems like Ill have to do more research.
thanks
Ron

 

How is your fuel pump hardwire relay triggered? If it's wired up to trigger off of the ECU output for fuel pump relay 2 then what you described would make sense. It kinda sounds like you might be having some trouble with the low speed mode of the fuel pump. If its getting volts when cranking that means the high speed is probably working, but it transitions to low speed after cranking. There is a fuel pump resistor pack for the low speed labeled "Fuel Pump circuit resistor" in your wiring diagram. Double check that resistor pack to make sure its plugged in and that there isn't any obvious signs of damage etc.

EDIT: Sorry I meant triggered off fuel pump relay 1. I'm use to the CT9A circuit where the relays are reversed and relay 2 controls high/low. Since relay 2 is inside the etacs i'm assuming yours is probably triggering off relay 1 like you would want it to.

 

yes, the relay is wired to receive the signal from the ECU, on the picture I attached with the fuel pump wiring, I was going crazy trying to find fuel pump relay 2 (supposed to be inside the cabin ) and now for this "Fuel Pump circuit resistor" diagram says is on the engine bay area. do you know where are located? fuel pump relay 2 and "Fuel Pump circuit resistor"? thanks
Ron

 

Here is the fuel pump resistor.

 

Great !!! thanks, I'll look for something tomorrow, quick question that's also where the fuel pump relay 2 is located?
thanks again
Ron

 

It looks like fuel pump relay 2 is inside the etacs, you need to remove the etacs unit to test the relay functionality. The test procedure is too much to post, but you can download the service manual yourself from the evoscan website.

 

woops double post

 

no problem !! I have no idea about circuits or relays lol, so basically I don't need to check fuel pump relay 2? I have a couple of pictures of etacs and I cant see where fuel pump relay 2 is supposed to be located... I was thinking of doing a test of providing power to the fuel pump from battery

 

You can test relay 2 by just unplugging your hardwire relay and repeating the test you already did of volts at the fuel pump. If you don't see any during cranking then you have an issue with relay 2. If you want to manually send power to the fuel pump you could just trigger your hardwire relay, or short its connector terminals.

 

copy that, I'll do more testing tomorrow and keep you posted .thanks
Ron