I reflashed my own car!
I reflashed my own car!
So I stop by the dealer I purchased my car from to see about the factory ECU reflash.
SA “ Our tech who is trained on the system had to go home sick, so we will have to reschedule.”
Me: “ Can I take a look with another tech I really want to get this done?”
SA grabs another call.
Me: How hard can this be- grab the tech and head over to my car and the programming station.
System is a docked Panasonic Toughbook connected to an external programming device via USB. The system looks like it is trying to connect to the web but has failed. After a brief look around I determine that its not connected to a network.
Me: “ Do you have an Ethernet cable?”
Tech: “ Somewhere let me look”
Tech “ I can’t find it”
Me: “I have a 30 footer in my bag”
Find the port on the wall and locate the port below the docking station and we connect but no IP via DHCP, right click repair and we get an address.
Next step is to make sure everything is up-to-date. So we go the maintenance screen and click on download. Several updates are applied. Then we connect the ODB connector to the car and turn the key to the on position and go to something like ECU reprogram. Issues-the system sees another car, so we erase this one and query my car, vin comes back and we select the man trans. Then we say OK and a window pops up that it reviewing and it finds an update that says something to the effect of “ hesitation at high RPM” check and we load. The lights turn on and the fan starts up. Couple minutes go by and the program says to turn the car off 8 seconds and all is good. A quick test drive through the back parking lot confirms that things have improved greatly. SA and tech thank me apologize, I tell them no worries and thank them for letting me jump in. Yes it is ridiculous that they were unable to resolve this but it was commendable that they let me.
The car now feels more like what I remember an 8/9 did as the engine now revs to red line willingly. I also notice that if I’m below 3k I don’t necessarily have to down shift to get moving. Bottom line I’m now content with the car...that is until AMS can give me 400 at the wheels!
SA “ Our tech who is trained on the system had to go home sick, so we will have to reschedule.”
Me: “ Can I take a look with another tech I really want to get this done?”
SA grabs another call.
Me: How hard can this be- grab the tech and head over to my car and the programming station.
System is a docked Panasonic Toughbook connected to an external programming device via USB. The system looks like it is trying to connect to the web but has failed. After a brief look around I determine that its not connected to a network.
Me: “ Do you have an Ethernet cable?”
Tech: “ Somewhere let me look”
Tech “ I can’t find it”
Me: “I have a 30 footer in my bag”
Find the port on the wall and locate the port below the docking station and we connect but no IP via DHCP, right click repair and we get an address.
Next step is to make sure everything is up-to-date. So we go the maintenance screen and click on download. Several updates are applied. Then we connect the ODB connector to the car and turn the key to the on position and go to something like ECU reprogram. Issues-the system sees another car, so we erase this one and query my car, vin comes back and we select the man trans. Then we say OK and a window pops up that it reviewing and it finds an update that says something to the effect of “ hesitation at high RPM” check and we load. The lights turn on and the fan starts up. Couple minutes go by and the program says to turn the car off 8 seconds and all is good. A quick test drive through the back parking lot confirms that things have improved greatly. SA and tech thank me apologize, I tell them no worries and thank them for letting me jump in. Yes it is ridiculous that they were unable to resolve this but it was commendable that they let me.
The car now feels more like what I remember an 8/9 did as the engine now revs to red line willingly. I also notice that if I’m below 3k I don’t necessarily have to down shift to get moving. Bottom line I’m now content with the car...that is until AMS can give me 400 at the wheels!
Last edited by trans_lux; Apr 18, 2008 at 11:23 AM.
So are there 2 flashes out now? One for the idle issue (p1320) and now one for the high rpm hesitation issue? Perhaps that the new flash incorporates both? Is there a way for me to find out or what, cause although mine idles funny every now and then, it's rare and I care more about getting the car leaned out to proper levels to make the car faster and run better. Let me know...
Nice, It would be nice to see a comparison between (the same car) before and after dyno run with boost and afr included, that would give us an idea of how this car likes to run and in what direcction we need to move once we get to do it on our own.
A guy just posted the other day a before and after dyno. I think that he gained 15 WHP or something like that
Yes it is a sad commentary on all kinds of aspects but unfortunately is largely the norm in todays world of sub par service. Just glad I was able to get it done.
RE: the TSB info I do not recall the exact # but it did say specifically that is was for hesitation at high RPM. I would say that if the dealer is not connecting to your car and running the diagnostics's there is not way to know what is needed. Unlike the BMW's that can take days to update
this takes almost no time at all. Every dealer should do it each and every time your bing in your car. My butt dyno says that 15-20 hp could be a reality. The fact that the car runs willingly to redline vs the felling that I was forcing it makes for a significantly more enjoyable experience. Also the revs do not fall off nearly as much between shifts as it did before. The EVo is now fun to drive.
RE: the TSB info I do not recall the exact # but it did say specifically that is was for hesitation at high RPM. I would say that if the dealer is not connecting to your car and running the diagnostics's there is not way to know what is needed. Unlike the BMW's that can take days to update
this takes almost no time at all. Every dealer should do it each and every time your bing in your car. My butt dyno says that 15-20 hp could be a reality. The fact that the car runs willingly to redline vs the felling that I was forcing it makes for a significantly more enjoyable experience. Also the revs do not fall off nearly as much between shifts as it did before. The EVo is now fun to drive.
ya i got mine done as well today. The problems with my car were it would bogg down while idleing and was well 5500 - 7000rmp i would get a studder and quite big drop in boost. Now the engine doesn't bogg down on idle
when you get to about 3800 rpm and the boost kicks in there was QUITE a noticable diffrence for me. Then from 4k -7k the boost is constant. The car is MUCH faster now, and loving my first EVO experience
when you get to about 3800 rpm and the boost kicks in there was QUITE a noticable diffrence for me. Then from 4k -7k the boost is constant. The car is MUCH faster now, and loving my first EVO experience
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Yes it is a sad commentary on all kinds of aspects but unfortunately is largely the norm in todays world of sub par service. Just glad I was able to get it done.
RE: the TSB info I do not recall the exact # but it did say specifically that is was for hesitation at high RPM. I would say that if the dealer is not connecting to your car and running the diagnostics's there is not way to know what is needed. Unlike the BMW's that can take days to update
this takes almost no time at all. Every dealer should do it each and every time your bing in your car. My butt dyno says that 15-20 hp could be a reality. The fact that the car runs willingly to redline vs the felling that I was forcing it makes for a significantly more enjoyable experience. Also the revs do not fall off nearly as much between shifts as it did before. The EVo is now fun to drive.
RE: the TSB info I do not recall the exact # but it did say specifically that is was for hesitation at high RPM. I would say that if the dealer is not connecting to your car and running the diagnostics's there is not way to know what is needed. Unlike the BMW's that can take days to update
this takes almost no time at all. Every dealer should do it each and every time your bing in your car. My butt dyno says that 15-20 hp could be a reality. The fact that the car runs willingly to redline vs the felling that I was forcing it makes for a significantly more enjoyable experience. Also the revs do not fall off nearly as much between shifts as it did before. The EVo is now fun to drive.Good luck!
Well, I called my dealer and there was a new update to the old reflash for the D1320 code. However, there is nothing in regards to the high rpm hesitation which concerns me a little bit because I have to drive an hour to get to my mitsu dealer and the idle issue only happens once in a blue moon to me. I am much more concerned with the high rpm hesitation issue and don't want to drive all the way down there unless I know for sure that it's gonna fix my problem. Either way, I have to "officially" document my notchy tranny issue so that mitsu corporate will see that it's really happening and not just blow me off over the phone. I'll ask them while I'm down there and see if they can't find anything out from techline about a possible fix.
I went to my dealer today during lunch hoping they could do the flash quickly. Guess not. They wanted me to leave my car for at least 4 hours. They said that they had to let the car cool down for at least 2 hours before doing the reflash, and the flash will take 45 minutes, and they had lots of cars. Also, they refused to schedule a time I could come. They said come any time M-F and leave the car for 4 hours.
Uh, I have a job like normal people. How can I do that?
Trying other dealerships hoping they are less stupid...
Uh, I have a job like normal people. How can I do that?
Trying other dealerships hoping they are less stupid...
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